Red Line 53 Review

[baby_zyklon]

OS hyper start with 1.75turns on main, idle at default position. Probably have to lean a few clicks.

TT50 start with 4turns out on main and 3turns out on idle, then adjust from there. Probably idle needle will need to be open more.

[LiveMeatz]

Hi Art and BabyZ...

Thank you for the input and reply.

Ok... For a start, I'll try with 3 full turns on the Main - Needle
and 3.5 turns on the small screw. Assuming, I close the needle
& small screw fully in and unscrew it back.

After each tank, what will be a safe temperature for the
cylinder head when i touch it?
(just half-throttle and hovering only)

If its too hot, what shall i do next?
If slightly warm, what's the next step?

thank you in advance..

[baby_zyklon]

Hi Art and BabyZ...

Thank you for the input and reply.

Ok... For a start, I'll try with 3 full turns on the Main - Needle
and 3.5 turns on the small screw. Assuming, I close the needle
& small screw fully in and unscrew it back.

After each tank, what will be a safe temperature for the
cylinder head when i touch it?
(just half-throttle and hovering only)

If its too hot, what shall i do next?
If slightly warm, what's the next step?

thank you in advance..

cylinder head will always be burning/boiling hot.
Check the baseplate. Should be warm and slightly hot, but not so hot that its unbearable to put your finger there for at least 3-4seconds.

[fatdiablo]

erm... than rl53 and tt50 is the same setting too?

[baby_zyklon]

erm... than rl53 and tt50 is the same setting too?

No. They have totally different carb. Never use before, no idea whats the setting.

[fatdiablo]

No. They have totally different carb. Never use before, no idea whats the setting.

oooo.... tks for ur reply bro

any bros out there know the rl53 factory setting?

[tucfaz]

The idle should be flush (factory set).. and 3 turn on the main.. 2.5 => should reach optimal..

[bigfilsing]

Hi Art and BabyZ...

Thank you for the input and reply.

Ok... For a start, I'll try with 3 full turns on the Main - Needle
and 3.5 turns on the small screw. Assuming, I close the needle
& small screw fully in and unscrew it back.

After each tank, what will be a safe temperature for the
cylinder head when i touch it?
(just half-throttle and hovering only)

If its too hot, what shall i do next?
If slightly warm, what's the next step?

thank you in advance..

I'm afaid you cant just turn screws according to what other people say. Turning screws X amount are just the factory settings to get the engine started.

3 turns on the main needle and turn the screw out till the head is flush with the carb body ( if you need help on this let me know and i'll see what i can do)

The manual shows a cross section drawing of the screw . Just to make it confusing for you they call it the "mixture metering" screw.

It's tricky getting them balanced and can be frustrating but stick with it. When you get it right you'll be well pleased.

I find it useful sometimes to right down the settings as i go.

Couple of things to help you.
Try the pinch test ( google pinch test) this is where you pinch the fuel line and listen to the engine. This gives you an inidication of too rich or too weak.

Dont go for all out performance straight away. Run the motor in for a couple of gallons.
Running an engine weak gives great power but wears it out and over heats it quicker. Take your time
Make sure you always use the same fuel and glow plugs. These 2 things can greatly effect engine peformance.
I've also noticed that a full or empty fuel tank can make a difference so i always try to tune while theres +/- half a tank on board.

Good luck

[bigfilsing]

heres a video of a pinch test

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2S23oZH5XI

Things to remember.
Your TT53 is bigger ( ie has bigger crankcases) so it wont be as direct as this.
Of course you can only do this at idle. Idle is a tricky thing on any engine so what i do is remove the blades for safety and give it slightly more than idle. Go as high as you can with out the clutch engaging.

The basics are this
Pinching the line starves the carb of fuel. and so weakens it.

If you pinch the line you should get ..........
if the engine doesn't change speed and just dies you're too weak.
if the engine takes about 4 secs to raise speed then die you're about right.
if the engine takes 5 or more seconds to raise in speed then you're too rich.

Note the time in seconds may vary a little from engine to engine but you need to get a "feel" of what your engine is doing

I would suggest you leave the high speed at 3 turns ( factory setting) and focus on the low speed screw first.

[LiveMeatz]

Hi all,

Thanks for all the reply.
I have managed to start up the engine after few minutes
of try. And only managed to hover for less than half-tank.
But my luck seems out.
The clutch was jammed.
Maybe after start-up, i tried to hold the blades too long
before putting the heli to fly, and throttle a bit on the high
side.

Now need to clear the clutch lining and applying a new
set with epoxy.

The problem i'm facing is that, how am i supposed to keep my
engine running, at very low throttle. Keeping the low-end idle
a bit lean manage to help a bit, but the engine will be very hot
after my hovering. So i figure, maybe i can rich-up the low end
screw a bit. So i managed to start the engine again. but this time
the engine was bogging in half-throttle, before the clutch start to
jam. However, the engine crankcase was not as hot as before.

Maybe next time i'll try to lean-up a few clicks on the main needle.

Ha... i think i've got a hang of it.. Patience is very important.. :-)

[bigfilsing]

Glad to hear you're making progress. Pity about the clutch.

Take your time replacing it. Remember to get everything clean and dry before you epoxy in the new one.

Ok back to the carb.
This is the unfortunate thing we have to deal with. Us Helis guys tend to hover about mid stick ( or slightly higher) and this is exactly the transition point of the low speed needle to high speed needle.

Wrting down what you;ve got is importan as you can then always go back to where you are now.
I would remove the blades and get idle to 10% throttle sorted first ( pinch test) then try and hover. If you think it's too rich at hover then 1 or 2 clicks on the high speed to lean it may help.

Of course at hover your throttle and pitch curves are important too.
I always leave one linear while tunning. Usually the throttle curve. Then match my pitch to the throttle at least while tunning the engine. Once it's running right you can tweak the curves for the best response later.

It's a trail and error game i'm afraid. Patience will pay off. Its fine getting somebody at the FF to help you but then you don't learn anything.

I recently had 2 gallons thru an OS37 before it was anywhere near running right ( and they are supposed to be easy )
Good luck

[fatdiablo]

heres a video of a pinch test

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2S23oZH5XI

Things to remember.
Your TT53 is bigger ( ie has bigger crankcases) so it wont be as direct as this.
Of course you can only do this at idle. Idle is a tricky thing on any engine so what i do is remove the blades for safety and give it slightly more than idle. Go as high as you can with out the clutch engaging.

The basics are this
Pinching the line starves the carb of fuel. and so weakens it.

If you pinch the line you should get ..........
if the engine doesn't change speed and just dies you're too weak.
if the engine takes about 4 secs to raise speed then die you're about right.
if the engine takes 5 or more seconds to raise in speed then you're too rich.

Note the time in seconds may vary a little from engine to engine but you need to get a "feel" of what your engine is doing

I would suggest you leave the high speed at 3 turns ( factory setting) and focus on the low speed screw first.

tks bros for ur advise...

with ur statement , i will be more confident to tune my engine now.

once again... thank you guys.

[baby_zyklon]

Bigfilsing. I have no wish or intention to start any arguement with you. Just want to point out a few things that I think you should rethink and re-read about.

1. VERY VERY IMPORTANT AND DANGEROUS ALWAYS start your engine with the BLADE ON. The very sole reason for this is to allow you to have something to grab on to in the event of a very hot start. Grabbing on to a pair of empty rotor grips in the event of a hot start is, TBH, not a very wise thing to do because it CAN CUT YOUR HAND. Hot start due to things like wrong stick position and reversed servo is a VERY common human error, can be eliminated, but still happens more than too often.

2. Livemeatz has a TT50, not a TT53. His carb is totally different from what is on the TT53. 1-2clicks don't make much difference on my TT50. YMMV. AND you adjust the both the idle and main needle for the TT50 to get the right hover mixture. Tried and proven by yours sincerely, just last week. Your method might apply for the TT53, I don't know, but it sure doesn't apply to the TT50.

3. Personally, I think tuning the engine to run just right during the mid of the tank will cause the mixture to go pretty lean toward the last 1/8-1/10 of the main tank. Not good in the long term because it doesn't take very long to overheat an engine, especially if you are really banging the stick around. Amount of leaning out from full-empty tank will depend on the engine/heli/tubing/muffler combination. Personally I found 3 ways to avoid/reduce this effect. 1. Regulated fuel system. 2. Have a fat hover mixture and use that last bit to practise lower headspeed flight. 3. Totally avoid that region, i.e. land and refuel.

[edmond22]

Bigfilsing. I have no wish or intention to start any arguement with you. Just want to point out a few things that I think you should rethink and re-read about.

1. VERY VERY IMPORTANT AND DANGEROUS ALWAYS start your engine with the BLADE ON. The very sole reason for this is to allow you to have something to grab on to in the event of a very hot start. Grabbing on to a pair of empty rotor grips in the event of a hot start is, TBH, not a very wise thing to do because it CAN CUT YOUR HAND. Hot start due to things like wrong stick position and reversed servo is a VERY common human error, can be eliminated, but still happens more than too often.

2. Livemeatz has a TT50, not a TT53. His carb is totally different from what is on the TT53. 1-2clicks don't make much difference on my TT50. YMMV. AND you adjust the both the idle and main needle for the TT50 to get the right hover mixture. Tried and proven by yours sincerely, just last week. Your method might apply for the TT53, I don't know, but it sure doesn't apply to the TT50.

3. Personally, I think tuning the engine to run just right during the mid of the tank will cause the mixture to go pretty lean toward the last 1/8-1/10 of the main tank. Not good in the long term because it doesn't take very long to overheat an engine, especially if you are really banging the stick around. Amount of leaning out from full-empty tank will depend on the engine/heli/tubing/muffler combination. Personally I found 3 ways to avoid/reduce this effect. 1. Regulated fuel system. 2. Have a fat hover mixture and use that last bit to practise lower headspeed flight. 3. Totally avoid that region, i.e. land and refuel.

I agree with first point. Me and Hotdogbun had a full throttle hot start before on a tt53 because we both set it up reversed (dun ask why lol). Even with that kind of power, given a choice I would much rather I have the blades on because it is easier to grab and hold on to and it doesn't readily spin up so quickly as opposed to just a rotor head. SO in reality, it happened and I held on to it fine with surprisingly with not too much panic or strength (though you can smell the clutch burning already), just grabbed the fuel line and pinch the hell out of it.

I have no experience with tt50 but only with os91sz-ps, os50 hyper and tt53. I tuned it to run just right when the tank is near empty. That means my full tank and even mid tank is pretty rich and may tend to bog richly quite easily during hotter temperature. I learn to live with that and unknown to onlookers, I actually become finer with collective management and still manage very good power. Header tank helps a lot too.

Just run it rich, when you become better and load the engine more and more, you will learn from experience that as you become more demanding on your craft in terms of flying, you will need to richen it more because you are heating up a lot more than in the past.

and btw, I know a lot of people go with the 5 second pinch test. I am starting to disregard that rule more and more. Mine is always about 7-8 seconds when it dies. The TT53 idle adjustment affects a lot of the throttle curve, about 70ish percent in my opinion, this setting of mine is the minimum I would go to avoid that occasional lean spot in hovering. If you are into multiple tight fast tic tocs, I personally think the 5 second needle adjustment for idle might just be too lean when you hover around near empty tank. Even at 3 turns out on the high with 30 percent and with extra shim, I measure easily 105-110 deg on the head after landing immediately from a heavily loaded flying.

[LiveMeatz]

Hi,

The engine starting to lean during half / almost empty tank issue,
can it be settled by placing a header tank? Hmmm. If that is the
case, i think for a full loaded tank, its alright for me to adjust the
engine into rich mixture and then when the tank is almost empty,
i have to see if the engine appears to be lean. So its important
for me not to fly aggressively for a few minutes after start-up.

And also, by putting fuel filters into the fuel line, the filter must
not be empty from fuel, am i right?? I have this issue of fuel
reversing back into the main tank.. Haiz... Now that i know the
fuel line too plays an important part. I have to modify and see how
to overcome this.

Rain-rain go away, come again another day. :0