Trex $ Saving Ideas

[w_kby]

G10 material for Trex chasis

I also not sure leh, you are the only expert I know lor.

I search the web and found this, not sure if this is the right one but looks good.

Based on what I read, G10 is a woven glass fabric epoxy laminate and is used mainly for watch PCB. Maybe it is this:

http://www.jjorly.com/black_g10_fr4.htm

will let u know if i can get my hand's on it .... but is there a more specific name other than G10 material ??

[Adrianli]

Hi Jonathon,

Wow 50 cents, crash how to find? Better put a small stone lar

Please let me know if you are able to find this Black G10 composite fiber material. This material has an ultra strong physical property and is used in the HeliDirect STK superframe. The thickness is 1.6mm.

If can find this material, you can build so many things. Chasis, fins, stabilizers, battery tray, receiver tray...etc...etc and maybe DIY the whole heli with completely unique chasis design..he he ha ha ..

Do a search, someone bought G10 material at veerasamy rd sometime back.

[w_kby]

Hi Adrian,

Thanks thanks for your help. Found the thread:

http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4095&page=1&pp=15&highlight=g10

Wow, you guys did this more than 1 years ago. Most interesting.....Oh ya, thanks for sharing the LHK machine belt source, it is really good stuff.

With so many years into the hobby, I am sure you have lots of tips and cost saving ideas, do share share here or point a link so we can all save $$.

Thanks alot brother!

[QUOTE: adrianli]Do a search, someone bought G10 material at veerasamy rd sometime back.[/QUOTE]

[skareb1986]

Here's my contribution to making a set of DIY fin set's for the rex

First i used a piece of 3mm thick acrylic, and traced the actual shape of the fins onto the protective paper using a pencil, be sure to mark out the two screw hole's CLEARY and make sure the fin's dont move out of place



Next use a scroll saw to cut out the fin's, a hand file is then used to get rid of the saw mark's on the edge's of the fin's.

The hole's on the fin is drilled using a 1.5mm and 10mm drill bit, for the 10mm hole i recommand drilling a 3mm hole first and then only drill the 10mm

Use a 250 grade sandpaper to smoothen the edge's and then 955 grade sandpaper (wet) to smoothen it further.



To get a clear shiny finish on the edge's use turtle wax which can be obtained from the local petrol kiosk






Hope this will come in useful !

[w_kby]

Nice, very nice!

Hi brother,

How you get these wonderful colours? Looks

Cut one for me lar, I can do the detail sanding myself. thanks for the detail instruction.

Yes!...It certainly helps

Oh ya, I managed to contact the shop "Swee Engineering Co Pte Ltd" at 28, Veerasamy Rd. They do sell the G10 material. Price abit expensive. Minimum order per sheet - size is 3 feet x 4 feet (1.5mm) for $53/-

Based on what they told me, it is very hard to cut this material especially if it is so thin (1.5mm). Certainly not easy to DIY.

Perphaps have to find other materials??

... making a set of DIY fin set's for the rex

Hope this will come in useful !

[skareb1986]

sure sound's tough cutting the G10 sheet, let alone doing the frame ! for sure a CNC machine would be useful ... there are many color's to choose from for the acrylic, cutting a set for you shouldnt be a problem... wat color do you want to match your rex ? red, clear grey, orange or even have lime green i tink ....

[w_kby]

Hmmmm....not that you are asking, say, blue for monday, red for Tuesday.....Orange for Saturday,

Ok Orange is good . Thanks

By the way, the last time I wanted to cut some complex metal parts, they told me to use 'see and see' ....so still loking around for help.

sure sound's tough cutting the G10 sheet, let alone doing the frame ! for sure a CNC machine would be useful ... there are many color's to choose from for the acrylic, cutting a set for you shouldnt be a problem... wat color do you want to match your rex ? red, clear grey, orange or even have lime green i tink ....

[Swashhead]

w_kby: By the way, the last time I wanted to cut some complex metal parts, they told me to use 'see and see' ....so still loking around for help

I believe they meant CNC - computer numerical control machining. I think if you want to cut complicated shapes on the 1.5mm G10 sheet, you will need to use laser cut machine - usually found in sheet metal fabricators. You will have to give them a 2D drawing in some CAD (e.g. AutoCAD) format.


Swashhead

[w_kby]

Thanks brother,

I was just joking with Jonathon on the CNC machines.

I think I will shelf the idea of making chasis for now, seems not cheap to DIY unless can get access to these machineries.

I believe they meant CNC - computer numerical control machining. I think if you want to cut complicated shapes on the 1.5mm G10 sheet, you will need to use laser cut machine - usually found in sheet metal fabricators. You will have to give them a 2D drawing in some CAD (e.g. AutoCAD) format.


Swashhead

[w_kby]

Trex "Thrust Bearing" @ USD2.99 only

With the help of Chai (moveon) , I managed to get a set of thrust bearing from helidirect for my Trex 450. These thrust bearings are ABEC-3 and comes in a set with 2 bearings and 4 thrust washers.

This is the link to heliDirect. The part cost only USD 2.99 (excluding freight)

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?products_id=1200

Please note that the 4 washers comes with 2 different inner diameters.

Below are the steps to replace the radial bearing with the thrust bearings. I realized that there are different schools of thoughts on installing the bearing. The Align 600 installed the bearing next to the securing screws of the feathering shaft while the Thunder Tiger (Raptor) install the thrust bearing in between the 2 radial bearings.

I have taken the advise of Chai to follow the Thunder Tiger method. Did some research on the web and below are the summarized installation steps:

PHOTO (1)
The package comes with 2 bearings and 4 washers. Two of the washers are with smaller inner diameter and the other two comes with a bigger inner diameter.


PHOTO (2)
Photo below show the 2 thrust washers having different inner diameter. The smaller i/d washers will be fitted nearer to the blade side while the bigger i/d washers will be fitted nearer to the main shaft side. Apply some grease on the thrust bearings.


PHOTO (3)
Removal of existing radial bearings from the blade grip by lightly knocking it out with a main shaft.


PHOTO (4)
Note that there are 3 radial bearings on the existing blade grip, 1 smaller and 2 larger ones. I choose to replace the centre radial bearing with the thrust bearing. This is according to Thunder Tiger instruction for Raptor. There are also other options.


PHOTO (5)
In order to align all the bearing and washers into the blade grip, I used a screw driver to arrange the order of assembly for each part before slotting them into the blade grip.
The sequence of installing should be as follows:
Screw->Washer->Radial bearing(bigger) ->Thrush washer (smaller diameter)->Thrust Bearing->Thrust washer (bigger diameter)->Radial bearing(smaller)


PHOTO (6)
Close view of the thrust bearing layout. Note that the enclosure side of the thrust bearing is facing the direction of the blades (so that the grease will not be thrown off due to centrifugal force)


PHOTO (7)
Layout of the various bearings.


Here is an interesting article I read from other forum:

This is just some information I came across while reading a review of the align metal blade grips, it might be of interest to those of you who run these and a headspeed above 3000 rpm

"The blade grips are a three bearing design but I was slightly disappointed to only see radial ball races in the blade grips and no thrust races. Having done some load calculations it is likely that the ball races in the blade grips may start to freeze with head speed of 3000 rpm or more."

"The blade grips feature radial bearings throughout and therefore I would not want to push these blade grips beyond 3000 RPM as there is a possibility of the bearings starting to freeze under load. Ideally a performance blade grip should include a thrust race which will cope much better with the forces acting upon it when subjected to the high head speeds often utilised by 3-D pilots."

This is from a review I found at trex-tuning.com, and I have been pondering this very question for a while, Are thrust bearings needed on our little rexy??... I guess a plausible answer right now would be if you run a headspeed under 3000 rpm, we shouldn't have any trouble running radial bearings in our heads....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

HoPe ThIs HeLps

[w_kby]

Trex "Thrust Bearing" @ USD2.99 only

UPDATE - Thrust Bearing on Trex

Just maiden my heli with the helidirect thrust bearing and all seems good.

Pitch control felt more sensitive to stick movement and tracking is good. I think for those who does alot of 3D with high headspead, the thrust bearing on the Trex would be an advantage.

[w_kby]

Trex " O-ring " @ S$0.30 each

$ saving opportunity.

In the Main Rotor housing head of the Trex, there are 4 pieces of rubber O-rings which tends to wear out quite fast.

Rotor only sells these o-rings together with the 'Main Rotor Housing Set' but not the 'o-ring' itself. They only have o-ring for e-sky models but not sure if they are the same.

Link to esky o-rings ($2.40 for 4 pcs + plus a tube)

http://shop.rotor.com.sg/product-find-action.asp?pdt_name=o+ring&code=&x=0&y=0

There is a shop on the same level as Rotor (near the staircase) called "Powquip Traders" which sells all kind of seals used for Excavators.

Incidentally, they have the exact o-ring for Trex. The part code is "OR-P3".

Their normal price for each o-ring is 50 cents but after some discussion, M/s Lau was kind to offer them at 30 cents each with min order of 10 pieces to any DH friends.

If you order more then 50 pieces, then it can be down to 25 cents each.

Here is the contact detail:

The part code for the Trex 0-rings is "OR-P3"


This is the name card. You may contact M/s Lau, Ah Meng or Cindy.


They also have different sizes of o-rings and rubber seals which I am sure those flying Nitro will this thread useful.

Would also appreciate if some season flyers will share more of their $$ saving tips on this thread, thanks.

HoPe ThIs HeLps

[w_kby]

Trex " O-ring " @ S$0.30 each

UPDATE after test flight

Hi all, just to provide an update on Alternate source 'o-rings'.

So far, I have tested the alternate source 'o-rings' with 9 pack of batteries on normal flights and there were no significant difference in the performance
as compared to Align stock 'o-rings'.

Some Photo showing the wear and tear after use:

Photo of alternate source o-rings just after installation. Based on what I have read from other threads, it is advisable to apply some lubrication around the feathering shaft / rings.


Photo showing the Align stock 'o-rings' after about 100 packs of battery on normal flights. Significant wear and tear.


Photo showing Alternate source 'o-rings' after 9 packs of batteres on normal flights. Some wear and tear.


My personal view: Since cheap, can use lor. Not sure how it will perform under 3D flights. Need to wait for more feedbacks from experience pilots..

hOpE ThIs HeLpS

[ls_leong]

T-rex 'O-ring' @ 0.10 each

Hi all,

Good news for all trex flyer, now you can buy a cheaper spinder shaft O-ring
at KIAN HO BEARINGS LTD, they have 3 branch in Singapore. Head Office was locate at 5 Changi South St 3, Two branches at 206 Jalan Besar and 27A Jurong Port Road. For more details please check at

http://www.kianho.com.sg

The parts no for the O-ring is P3 OR
Their normal price for each o-ring is 10 cents but,If you buy more then 100 pieces, then it can be down to 8 cents each

Note: I buy 100pcs from Jalan Besar branches yesterday. The quality almost the same with the align stock O-ring.

[w_kby]

Trex "o-ring" NOW only 10 cents each

That is good news getting better!!

Thanks Is_leong for sharing.

Infact some heli web site were selling the normal stock o-rings for $1/- each. This 10 cent deal is great. I am going to scream at the shop next to Rotor and see what they say...hehehe

Appreciate all $$ saving ideas, the more the merrier.

Hi all,

Good news for all trex flyer, now you can buy a cheaper spinder shaft O-ring
at KIAN HO BEARINGS LTD, they have 3 branch in Singapore. Head Office was locate at 5 Changi South St 3, Two branches at 206 Jalan Besar and 27A Jurong Port Road. For more details please check at

http://www.kianho.com.sg

The parts no for the O-ring is P3 OR
Their normal price for each o-ring is 10 cents but,If you buy more then 100 pieces, then it can be down to 8 cents each

Note: I buy 100pcs from Jalan Besar branches yesterday. The quality almost the same with the align stock O-ring.