need help with ESC related problems

[wanna_be_pilot]

Hi guys. I recently built a tricopter. The RCexplorer design.
However, i am having problems with my Rx. It seems to be browning out in mid flight even when the tricopter is 1-2m in fornt of me.
I have also noticed that one ESC tends to be extremely hot after each flight unlike the others. the ESC are even placed in the propwash.
After the first of my two crashes, some of the seniors and more experienced flyers at HQ SCDF told me that my ESC could be causing the RX to brownout.
The tri was still flyable after the first crash but the second crash wrecked the whole thing.
the motors run at close to 11-12AMP according to some ppl who posted stats on the motor so my 18A ESC is within limits.
Would appreciate your help.

[MultiRC]

Removed the red wire from the ESC servo cable (all three of them) and use external BEC to supply the 5V to the board

This solve most of the problem based on the feedback from many of my customer/users

[weeliano]

Hi guys. I recently built a tricopter. The RCexplorer design.
However, i am having problems with my Rx. It seems to be browning out in mid flight even when the tricopter is 1-2m in fornt of me.
I have also noticed that one ESC tends to be extremely hot after each flight unlike the others. the ESC are even placed in the propwash.
After the first of my two crashes, some of the seniors and more experienced flyers at HQ SCDF told me that my ESC could be causing the RX to brownout.
The tri was still flyable after the first crash but the second crash wrecked the whole thing.
the motors run at close to 11-12AMP according to some ppl who posted stats on the motor so my 18A ESC is within limits.
Would appreciate your help.

I have built the same type of Tricopter as you have and the issue I encountered is that the DT750 motor shaft can be over tightened and cause friction within the bell mount and the bearings, over tightening the propeller can also cause it, this could cause the ESC to drive the motor extra hard overheating it and potentially damaging both motor and ESC. To fix that I remove the motor and loosen the grub screws that holds the shaft to the bell. That can be found at the neck of the motor bell on top. Hold the motor bell in your hand and use a small hammer and gently tap the shaft, with each tap, rotate the bell to see if it spins more freely; be very careful not to tap too hard or hit the bell, you don't want to bend the shaft or damage the magnets inside. Once you have loosened it, tighten back the grub screw. Take note to drill a recess at the bottom to ensure the shaft spins freely without rubbing on the wood. I use the fpvmanuals kit for my 1st Tricopter so I don't have to do that, however I'm building a new Tricopter that follows David's design with the exception of carbon fiber arms.

The TX and RX I used on my Tricopter is the Turnigy 9X and it performed flawlessly with no interference issues. The futaba 6J set I previously used picked up a lot of noise causing the rear servo to twitch.

Here's my Tricopter in action

[wanna_be_pilot]

I have built the same type of Tricopter as you have and the issue I encountered is that the DT750 motor shaft can be over tightened and cause friction within the bell mount and the bearings, over tightening the propeller can also cause it, this could cause the ESC to drive the motor extra hard overheating it and potentially damaging both motor and ESC. To fix that I remove the motor and loosen the grub screws that holds the shaft to the bell. That can be found at the neck of the motor bell on top. Hold the motor bell in your hand and use a small hammer and gently tap the shaft, with each tap, rotate the bell to see if it spins more freely; be very careful not to tap too hard or hit the bell, you don't want to bend the shaft or damage the magnets inside. Once you have loosened it, tighten back the grub screw. Take note to drill a recess at the bottom to ensure the shaft spins freely without rubbing on the wood. I use the fpvmanuals kit for my 1st Tricopter so I don't have to do that, however I'm building a new Tricopter that follows David's design with the exception of carbon fiber arms.

The TX and RX I used on my Tricopter is the Turnigy 9X and it performed flawlessly with no interference issues. The futaba 6J set I previously used picked up a lot of noise causing the rear servo to twitch.

Here's my Tricopter in action

I have already done what you said about drilling some of the space below the motor to prevent it from rubbing. Will be re-making the tri using carbon fibre arms this time. You also mentioned that your rear servo twitched alot. i was also experiencing the same problem. Made my tricopter look like as if it had 'swagger'. I tried adjusting the gyro for Yaw but still has abit of problem. How did you manage to solve it.

Removed the red wire from the ESC servo cable (all three of them) and use external BEC to supply the 5V to the board

This solve most of the problem based on the feedback from many of my customer/users

I remember you telling me about that. I think i will be getting that for extra safety and since it has been tested.
One more qn. Would i need to re-flash the board if i wish to add one the accelerometer module on it?

[weeliano]

I have already done what you said about drilling some of the space below the motor to prevent it from rubbing. Will be re-making the tri using carbon fibre arms this time. You also mentioned that your rear servo twitched alot. i was also experiencing the same problem. Made my tricopter look like as if it had 'swagger'. I tried adjusting the gyro for Yaw but still has abit of problem. How did you manage to solve it?

Initially I replaced my KKboard with another generic KKboard but the problem still persists. I bought the Turnigy 9x, changed the whole RX and TX and the jitter disappeared. Initially I thought my Futaba 6J's (R2006GS) receiver was damaged when my Lotus T580 crashed, but as it turned out, it is still functioning fine, I recently installed it in a quad setup and it worked fine, no jitters. I also ruled out the servo extension cable, changing a couple when I was still using the Futaba R2006GS receiver.

You should get the Turnigy 9X, though the physical quality is not as good as the well known brands, the features, price/performance more than makes up for it. That's what I'm using to fly the Tricopter and another Quadcopter.
Do makes sure that all your motors are spinning freely, if one of them seems to have more resistance than others, then you'll need to loosen it a bit.

[wanna_be_pilot]

Initially I replaced my KKboard with another generic KKboard but the problem still persists. I bought the Turnigy 9x, changed the whole RX and TX and the jitter disappeared. Initially I thought my Futaba 6J's (R2006GS) receiver was damaged when my Lotus T580 crashed, but as it turned out, it is still functioning fine, I recently installed it in a quad setup and it worked fine, no jitters. I also ruled out the servo extension cable, changing a couple when I was still using the Futaba R2006GS receiver.

You should get the Turnigy 9X, though the physical quality is not as good as the well known brands, the features, price/performance more than makes up for it. That's what I'm using to fly the Tricopter and another Quadcopter.
Do makes sure that all your motors are spinning freely, if one of them seems to have more resistance than others, then you'll need to loosen it a bit.

I am still a student so buying a new Tx/rx is out of my reach. I will check out the motors once i get the CF arms done.