Red Line 53 Review

[Nazar78]

thanks for -preparing for weekend-

*for*=broe

keke

[Nazar78]

Slack Thread

hi broes,

Have a slight problem, and need ur expert advise.

I notice one of the backplate and one of the carb screw thread is wearing when i remove the screws. How can I DIY fix this? locktight confirm will melt, wat about super glue to re-thread? or pipe white tape will do the work?

thank you...

[HotDogBun]

Shouldnt have stripped threads unless tighten too hard.
My first engine also had this problem and I just make sure the other three are tight enough. Wont leak that easily. I use the 3 fingers method to check tightness, meaning using only 3 fingers to hold screwdriver o tighten.

When tightening, always tighten bit by bit on all screws and not tighten hard one by one.

[Nazar78]

thanks broe, i think the threads already giving away sooner or later. notice it 1st time i open`em. how can i fix this rather than getting a new crackca$e? any advise? thank you~

[bigfilsing]

One of the most likely causes of stripped threads in blind holes ( crankcase holes) is that there's oil ( or any liquid ( WD 40 , nitro fuel, thinners))in the hole. As the screw goes in it tries to compress the liquid ( which it cant of course) and the hydraulic action stops the screw from going in.
Has the same effect as if the screw were too long and you just kept on turning.

As with all steel bolts in alu screw thread keep em clean and free of debris ( old loctite, burnt oil residue). If you want to lubricate them then use a small amount or WD 40 or similar on the bolt ( never the hole ...see above)

If the thread is damaged then chances are it's the bolt ( the hole doesn't damage itself right ) so get a new bolt or clean and inspect the original one very very carefully!. Teflon tape or locite will only ever be a temporary fix I'm afraid and will depend heavily on how bad the thread is damaged.

Good luck

[bigfilsing]

Couple of possible solutions to avoid buying a new crank case.

Best solution with most chance of success
As we know the standard screws are a specific lenght. To avoid possible issues the factory holes are drilled and more importantly, tapped a little deeper than the screw is long. This could be 1 mm could be 5 mm . The point is there's some thread in there that's never been used !! So to make use of this you need to do this.

Get some threaded rod ( same thread as the bolt ....most engines i've worked on are M3 but check yours) then screw it into the hole ( with loctite) To get it in tight use 2 nuts on the rod locked together ( by holding 1 nut and tightening the other against it) Carefully turn the rod into the hole until it's a tight as you dare go.
Then take off the 2 nuts. Put on your crankcase cover. Cut off the thread rod but leave enough sticking out for a washer and a nyloc nut. Don't use an ordinary nut as it will probably vibrate off Job done!!

Worst solution with big implications if you get it wrong
1 solution in an emergency for this would be to find a self taping screw that's the right diameter ( and similar length of course). It won't look pretty but could save you from buying a crankcase
BUT
remember . If it's too small in diameter it will go in a completely strip the thread out
If it's too big it may "burst" the crankcase hole or get stuck and shear off . Both = disaster.

good luck

[HotDogBun]

Nazar, a bro mentioned your engine needs overhaul and is too hot to touch on the backplate.
Not saying he is wrong, but I have full confidence that engine will last alot longer than this.
Can you try to tune it again? Causing it running too hot sounds like tuning needs to be check through again.
There're many reasons to backplate being hot. Could be not enough backpressure from fuel tank to pump into carb, so no matter how rich you push it'll still be very hot unless its super rich. The fuel line also plays a part on this.
Also could be your low end needle setting too.
Overhaul an engine is troublesome and changing the parts is not really cheap, especially if it turns out no need to.

[Nazar78]

@bigfilsing, wah broe, i neva thought of that bolt thingy, thanks will try it out~

@HDB, no worries broe, found the fault like i mention in the other thread, mayb due to this, the lub is not sufficient, thus hot. hope can fix this before weekend haha, thank you~

[HotDogBun]

@HDB, no worries broe, found the fault like i mention in the other thread, mayb due to this, the lub is not sufficient, thus hot. hope can fix this before weekend haha, thank you~

Really sorry to hear this. I was flying the heli that day I sold you and it was doing fine so I was confident in selling it.... Hope you resolve this soon.

[Nazar78]

no harm done broe~

broe, i notice this is the old carb, u didn't change to the new carb? i read at rr/hf that juz send the purchase receipt, ace will send u the new carb. u still have the receipt? hehe...

[HotDogBun]

Mine was from MBRC. I spoke to the owner. He saids only if throttle stuck then can change. Mine so far never get stuck, strange, so can't justify to change. However CKS and Edmond had this problem before.

[edmond22]

Mine was from MBRC. I spoke to the owner. He saids only if throttle stuck then can change. Mine so far never get stuck, strange, so can't justify to change. However CKS and Edmond had this problem before.

Mine came with newer version of carb already, no sticky problem.

[HotDogBun]

Oh, then who else other than CKS got the stuck throttle problem ah? I remember got 2 people.

[alex_bong]

compare

Hi all, ok so far u all tried out RL53. do compare it to OS 50 hyper in term of:

1. ease of tune.
2. ease of maintain.
3. fuel consumption.
4. durability.
5. worth for maney.

pls share...thx....

[baby_zyklon]

Hi all, ok so far u all tried out RL53. do compare it to OS 50 hyper in term of:

1. ease of tune.
2. ease of maintain.
3. fuel consumption.
4. durability.
5. worth for maney.

pls share...thx....

if you are thinking of upgrading from the hyper, OS and YS have new and BIGGER 50 size coming