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Aiyah, sorry wrong info for you. I forgot my TC is not linear. Let me check and come back. There is a spot where I remember that if the idle is too rich, I have instances of it drowning a little before spooling up again as I advance throttle.
no worries broe, thanks for ur help so far
Current Blink²:
Trex-600N: TTRL53H/H#523/CarbSmart/CYATGv3-Gview/JR770T
Beam-E4: SC-8/13T/SC-55A/LT2100T
History Blink²:
Belt-CP
Walkera-#60
"Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory."
Nate Waddoups
Wah, 1 day and so much happened on this thread
Actually need to hear you fly then can understand and troubleshoot better.
Able to check your headspeed?
I was on Active Mode ATG at 1950rpm. My curve on idle is 100/70/100. Did you adjust the needles after buying from me?
i did activate the atg active mode at 2100rpm curve flat 90. have tried other different curves. erm actually theres oready a few hands touching the needles, including the last one me haha. broe hdb, can u remember how many turn is the idle default factory aka flush?
Current Blink²:
Trex-600N: TTRL53H/H#523/CarbSmart/CYATGv3-Gview/JR770T
Beam-E4: SC-8/13T/SC-55A/LT2100T
History Blink²:
Belt-CP
Walkera-#60
"Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory."
Nate Waddoups
Just to add, HDB was running 20% with that settings. You will need to go richer on the high end with 30% for sure. Most of us on 30% are on 2.75 - 3 turn out for the high.
Stop looking for a gyro in my plane, they are all in the head.
Just to add, HDB was running 20% with that settings. You will need to go richer on the high end with 30% for sure. Most of us on 30% are on 2.75 - 3 turn out for the high.
ouh~ higher % must go a bit richer? noted thanks...
Current Blink²:
Trex-600N: TTRL53H/H#523/CarbSmart/CYATGv3-Gview/JR770T
Beam-E4: SC-8/13T/SC-55A/LT2100T
History Blink²:
Belt-CP
Walkera-#60
"Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory."
Nate Waddoups
guys, how do we remove the m6 nut from the crankshaft? i use a multi plug wrench to turn the nut ccw but it's too tight additionally i can't have a good grip anywhere ie. to lock a spanner before the nut. can help advise? thanks...
Current Blink²:
Trex-600N: TTRL53H/H#523/CarbSmart/CYATGv3-Gview/JR770T
Beam-E4: SC-8/13T/SC-55A/LT2100T
History Blink²:
Belt-CP
Walkera-#60
"Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory."
Nate Waddoups
Loli pop / ice cream stick in the exhaust port BUT and this is a BIG BUT, you need to be careful and apply the pressure very gradually.
If you apply pressue too quick the piston acts like a guillotine and chops the stick off
What you're doing is preventing the piston from going up in the cylinder ( the stick is jammed between the exhaust port opening and the crown ( top) of the piston.
Anything you put in there has to be softer than aluminium ( or the materail the piston or cylinder liner is made from)
I use a cloth, wrap around the fan, hold it evenly at the fan base (not fin) and turn the wrench. I use this method to both tighten and loosen, never had the need for stopping the engine shaft from turning.
Stop looking for a gyro in my plane, they are all in the head.
ouh thanks guys, i tot i might break a finger to get it open lol, apologies, new at these stuffz. last nite i cleaned the engine w/o removing the fan lol. so can't check the bearings. still in good condition, oso the compression is good...
Current Blink²:
Trex-600N: TTRL53H/H#523/CarbSmart/CYATGv3-Gview/JR770T
Beam-E4: SC-8/13T/SC-55A/LT2100T
History Blink²:
Belt-CP
Walkera-#60
"Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory."
Nate Waddoups
Don';t bother taking the fan off to check the bearings visually. You cant see them ( the ball races) anyway as they are clsed bearings.
The only way you can check them is to slowly rotate the crank and "feel" the bearings. Best way is to remove the glow plug and put some thick oil in the cylinder to minimise the friction of the piston and piston ring. Then slowly rotate the crank and try and "feel" any rough spots of the bearing races.
The only breaing you can see is the large main bearing if you take the crankcase end cover off ( but in doing so you risk damaging the thin paper gasket!!!!! so be carefull) and the bearing is sometimes hidden by the crankshaft ( partially or completely) I'm not sure on the redline engines as i've never taken one to pieces. Look on the exploded view drawing to see if the crank has a full or partial circle profile.
You can, depending on the age/use of the motor, expect to see some build up of oill residue around the bearing balls and cage. Short term not too bad ( it's inevitable with 2 strokes) but in the long term as the residue builds up it prevents cooling to the balls and races whcih leads to wear.
Ah just looked it up. The crankcase end cap has an o ring on the TT RL53 so please ignore my previous "paper gasket" statement.
Still be carefull with it a put a drop of oil on it when you put it back. This helps it seat properely
And the crank has a partial circle profile so you will be able to see the main (larger) bearing
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