Tamiya TA05 built

[blueangel]

need help on the satoshi maezumi set up on ta05:

what is hud carrier??? in degree????
camber angle??
how tp set the ground clearance of 5mm and rebound stroke of 3mm
is it i set the car chassis to 8mm, press the car once and set the
ground clearance to 5mm.....?????

Adjust the shock collar until your car bottom chassis is 5 mm from the ground.

Then lift up the car slowly until your tyres lift off the ground. The distance you lift up ( in mm ) is the droop / rebound. If you wanted 3mm rebound, you adjust the droop screw until the tyres leave the ground when you try to lift the chassis up by 3mm.

Droop is not absolute figure.. meaning.. 3 mm or 5 mm has no meaning... but it is in relation to the front vs rear droop value..

meaning, you are more concerned with which ends has more droop or less droop.. all these is due to weight transfer...

About weight transfer. . it is a super big subject... and everything including suspension height, droop height, spring rate, sway bar, anti squat and kick ups, castor, camber, tyres and pressure / inserts, weight distribution of component on the chassis deck all will affect the weight transfer.

On droop subject alone : here is what i learnt..

For example I have more droop on the rear than front. On acceleration, weight transfer to the rear and lift the front. In comparison, since the front has less droop, less weight is transfer to the rear. meaning I have more traction to the front ( since it did not transfer most of the weight off the front ) and I get better steering straight line...

If I brake or let off trottle, weight transfer to the front. Since I have more droop on the rear, the rear will lift up more ( when compare to front during acceleration ) so I get more weight shifted to the front. Front will get more weight over the front tyres, so I get more responsive when slowing down, which is what i need to get the car to turn ( to slow down and turn ).

But this also make the car more prone to oversteering because the rear has lost most of its traction ( since there is little weight left over the rear tyres as most weight are now transferred to the front ).

So you see, droop can affect your car's oversteering / understeering characteristic. But you can achieve oversteering with ride height by lowering the front spring / shock by 1 or 2 mmm instead of adjusting its droop.

Everything works hand in hand.. you just need to experiment.

But the rule here is... BALANCE ! FRONT and REAR must be relatively in balance.. meaning you don't make your car 1 mm front and 10 mm rear height, or put a very hard spring front and very soft spring rear.

Camber, same thing.. 0 deg camber is no good. You adjust to afew degree camber to take corners. but too much camber and you start to loss grip again. There is a perfect optimum angle.. you have to find out.

Castor ( hub ).. usually I dont play with castor.. they should work fine with most setup. Unless you are trying to convert a 4WD into a RWD then castor should be adjusted.

[BL4]

Hi! I wanted to try to customise the pulley into aluminium material either to a different pulley series or number of teeths. Anyone here have try this? Thks!

[stocker]

Hi! I wanted to try to customise the pulley into aluminium material either to a different pulley series or number of teeths. Anyone here have try this? Thks!

Sounds interesting, but what is your objective in doing this?

[BL4]

Sounds interesting, but what is your objective in doing this?

In order to achieve the best results it is sometimes necessary to make zero (or reduced) backlash pulleys. Need to do some caluation on the pulleys first. Using Aluminium material can have a longer life span n can design to lighter it. Any Bro need ball bearing i might be able to get chaep & the timming belts. Thks!

[zattan22]

Adjust the shock collar until your car bottom chassis is 5 mm from the ground.

Then lift up the car slowly until your tyres lift off the ground. The distance you lift up ( in mm ) is the droop / rebound. If you wanted 3mm rebound, you adjust the droop screw until the tyres leave the ground when you try to lift the chassis up by 3mm.

Droop is not absolute figure.. meaning.. 3 mm or 5 mm has no meaning... but it is in relation to the front vs rear droop value..

meaning, you are more concerned with which ends has more droop or less droop.. all these is due to weight transfer...

About weight transfer. . it is a super big subject... and everything including suspension height, droop height, spring rate, sway bar, anti squat and kick ups, castor, camber, tyres and pressure / inserts, weight distribution of component on the chassis deck all will affect the weight transfer.

On droop subject alone : here is what i learnt..

For example I have more droop on the rear than front. On acceleration, weight transfer to the rear and lift the front. In comparison, since the front has less droop, less weight is transfer to the rear. meaning I have more traction to the front ( since it did not transfer most of the weight off the front ) and I get better steering straight line...

If I brake or let off trottle, weight transfer to the front. Since I have more droop on the rear, the rear will lift up more ( when compare to front during acceleration ) so I get more weight shifted to the front. Front will get more weight over the front tyres, so I get more responsive when slowing down, which is what i need to get the car to turn ( to slow down and turn ).

But this also make the car more prone to oversteering because the rear has lost most of its traction ( since there is little weight left over the rear tyres as most weight are now transferred to the front ).

So you see, droop can affect your car's oversteering / understeering characteristic. But you can achieve oversteering with ride height by lowering the front spring / shock by 1 or 2 mmm instead of adjusting its droop.

Everything works hand in hand.. you just need to experiment.

But the rule here is... BALANCE ! FRONT and REAR must be relatively in balance.. meaning you don't make your car 1 mm front and 10 mm rear height, or put a very hard spring front and very soft spring rear.

Camber, same thing.. 0 deg camber is no good. You adjust to afew degree camber to take corners. but too much camber and you start to loss grip again. There is a perfect optimum angle.. you have to find out.

Castor ( hub ).. usually I dont play with castor.. they should work fine with most setup. Unless you are trying to convert a 4WD into a RWD then castor should be adjusted.

thanks bro

[blueangel]

Hi, Don't know why you need aluminium because I believe plastic is more than enough.

I rather everything in compromise so that all last as long as they can.. rather than using one part that is especially strong and hard wearing and then jeopardizing the belt - which probably will wear off very fast.

It is always a balance in nature lah, same as car..
Example you want to reinforce the bumper, you put a metal bumper.. then your mountings ( on the chassis ) for the bumper will break.

Then you reinforce the chassis, then the braces crack..

Need to understand that if one part don't give way or flex, other parts will suffer..

Just my opinion...

Oh ya.. plastic is lighter too..

[BL4]

For the belts wise can use polyurethane material. The stock one is rubber material.

Hi, Don't know why you need aluminium because I believe plastic is more than enough.

I rather everything in compromise so that all last as long as they can.. rather than using one part that is especially strong and hard wearing and then jeopardizing the belt - which probably will wear off very fast.

It is always a balance in nature lah, same as car..
Example you want to reinforce the bumper, you put a metal bumper.. then your mountings ( on the chassis ) for the bumper will break.

Then you reinforce the chassis, then the braces crack..

Need to understand that if one part don't give way or flex, other parts will suffer..

Just my opinion...

Oh ya.. plastic is lighter too..

[zattan22]

how about the blue belt from tamiya??