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    #16
    Originally posted by Mad Armour
    'C' is only important for LiPo which for reason I don't understand, is intimately related to it's capacity.

    Cheers!
    'C' refers to how many times the original Lipo capacity is the Lipo capable of handling before it gets over drained and damage.

    Therefore if you have a 5000 mAh Lipo that can handle 20C constant and 30 to 50C burst. That will mean that the Lipo can handle 100Amps constant(20 x 5000mAh), and 150Amps to 250Amps at burst of between 10 to 30sec respectively. The burst timing is really manufacturer specification. By which is never wise to go in burst because one might get carry away and forget that one is bursting the Lipo that damaging the Lipo.

    1000mAh = 1Amp

    Cheers
    Cool

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by CoolMX
      'C' refers to how many times the original Lipo capacity is the Lipo capable of handling before it gets over drained and damage.

      Therefore if you have a 5000 mAh Lipo that can handle 20C constant and 30 to 50C burst. That will mean that the Lipo can handle 100Amps constant(20 x 5000mAh), and 150Amps to 250Amps at burst of between 10 to 30sec respectively. The burst timing is really manufacturer specification. By which is never wise to go in burst because one might get carry away and forget that one is bursting the Lipo that damaging the Lipo.

      1000mAh = 1Amp

      Cheers
      Cool
      That I know. I actually meant the discharge rate is closely related to the capacity. I don't think that's the case for NiCD/NiMh.

      BTW, I ran my LiteStorm on my VillainEX yesterday and they got pretty hot after the session. Now I know my boat drains batt faster than my car.
      For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by Mad Armour
        That I know. I actually meant the discharge rate is closely related to the capacity. I don't think that's the case for NiCD/NiMh.

        BTW, I ran my LiteStorm on my VillainEX yesterday and they got pretty hot after the session. Now I know my boat drains batt faster than my car.
        Oh, becareful of the heat to your Lipo. If it gets so hot that you cannot even hold it, means that you might have over discharged it. Do use a balancer to balance the Lipo when it cools down, and also monitor if your Lipo gets bloated hor....

        BTW, someone is selling some RTR boats in the market place, you think its a good deal?

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by CoolMX
          Oh, becareful of the heat to your Lipo. If it gets so hot that you cannot even hold it, means that you might have over discharged it. Do use a balancer to balance the Lipo when it cools down, and also monitor if your Lipo gets bloated hor....

          BTW, someone is selling some RTR boats in the market place, you think its a good deal?
          Still able to hold the LiPos for more than 5s but they're hotter than what I got from my EP cars. Yeah, I've been using a balancer to charge my LiPos all the time. Both batts, 3450+mA went in, so there was no overdischarging although I think it's too close for comfort.

          Can you point me to the RTR boats? Can't seem to find it. The only one I saw recently is the Yamaha.
          For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Mad Armour
            So far, I've not heard any ppl talking about 'C' for NiCd and NiMh. The higher the capacity, the longer the running time.

            'C' is only important for LiPo which for reason I don't understand, is intimately related to it's capacity.

            So far, I've used these 2 LiPos successfully on my EP.

            1) Hyperion LiteStorm 3700mAh 20C 2S1P.
            2) Kokam 3200mAh 20C 2S1P.

            IMO, when selecting LiPo for car, the higher the discharge rate, the better. You'll also have to get a LiPo that fits into the batt tray.

            My Kokam is exactly the length of a 6-cell pack, so it fits all my EP car that uses stick pack or side-by-side pack. The LiteStorm is a wee bit longer so I can't fit it in some car, like the E-Zilla.

            Cheers!
            Why the lipo is given a 'C' rating system is because of the chemical reaction. The higher the C rating, the faster the reaction of the Lithium Polymer electrons. The more mah it has, the higher the amps it can handle. The higher 'C' rating, the even more amps it can take. Take ur Hyperion litestorm for eg: 3700mah X 20C = 3.7A X 20 = 74A max cont.
            Take a el cheapo batt like Full River 2200 8C and pack them to 4400mah
            4400mah X 8C = 4.4A X 8C = 35.2A max cont.
            It works together, not as a single factor. In lipo, capacity is not everything. It's a more intricate clockwork of calculations.

            Why we dun usually bother about NiCD and NiMH because both cells are very hardy and durable. They can take about 100A easily. NiCD is far more durable because it is able to take as low as 0.5v per cell and at the end of the day, you can still charge back to the capacity(or somewhere near there). NiMHs offer no memory effect compared to the NiCD but they are very suscepitle to heat. They degrade faster(due to heat on fast charge and force charge)and if they lose too much voltage, they are unable to charge back.
            Losers whine about their best. Winners date the Prom Queen.

            Most people talk a lot, only few are up for the moment.

            Suck Squeeze Bang Blow
            20,000 times a min

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by mathsinstrument
              Why the lipo is given a 'C' rating system is because of the chemical reaction. The higher the C rating, the faster the reaction of the Lithium Polymer electrons. The more mah it has, the higher the amps it can handle. The higher 'C' rating, the even more amps it can take. Take ur Hyperion litestorm for eg: 3700mah X 20C = 3.7A X 20 = 74A max cont.
              Take a el cheapo batt like Full River 2200 8C and pack them to 4400mah
              4400mah X 8C = 4.4A X 8C = 35.2A max cont.
              It works together, not as a single factor. In lipo, capacity is not everything. It's a more intricate clockwork of calculations.

              Why we dun usually bother about NiCD and NiMH because both cells are very hardy and durable. They can take about 100A easily. NiCD is far more durable because it is able to take as low as 0.5v per cell and at the end of the day, you can still charge back to the capacity(or somewhere near there). NiMHs offer no memory effect compared to the NiCD but they are very suscepitle to heat. They degrade faster(due to heat on fast charge and force charge)and if they lose too much voltage, they are unable to charge back.
              Thanks for the explanation.

              Having used the LiPo on my EP car, I don't think I'll go back to my NiMh. Soon, I think LiPo will gain acceptance in races and it will take off.
              For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Mad Armour
                Still able to hold the LiPos for more than 5s but they're hotter than what I got from my EP cars. Yeah, I've been using a balancer to charge my LiPos all the time. Both batts, 3450+mA went in, so there was no overdischarging although I think it's too close for comfort.

                Can you point me to the RTR boats? Can't seem to find it. The only one I saw recently is the Yamaha.
                Yo, i tot you are using 3700mAh 2cell Lipo? If that is the case, then you charger is not charging the Lipo to peak wor.. Maybe you should use less then 1 C to charge. Say charging at 2500mAh and see if you can get atleast 3600mAh store on your Lipo after charging.

                Oh, ya here are the 2 thread on boats for sell. But i think i am only interested in those electric ones.

                This is the Yamaha ones. What do you think?


                This is the Nitro one.
                This market is for buy/sell of all RC stuff. Please do not post non-RC items here.


                Thanks in advance.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by CoolMX
                  Yo, i tot you are using 3700mAh 2cell Lipo? If that is the case, then you charger is not charging the Lipo to peak wor.. Maybe you should use less then 1 C to charge. Say charging at 2500mAh and see if you can get atleast 3600mAh store on your Lipo after charging.

                  Oh, ya here are the 2 thread on boats for sell. But i think i am only interested in those electric ones.

                  This is the Yamaha ones. What do you think?


                  This is the Nitro one.
                  This market is for buy/sell of all RC stuff. Please do not post non-RC items here.


                  Thanks in advance.
                  If it's not empty how to squeeze in the full 3700? Anyway my charger can't charge at 1C, maxxed at 2.5A only (Triton).

                  The Yamaha is made in China. Looks good but I haven't seen one run yet. Fiberglass hull, has potential for upgrade. Hardware looks serious. If I don't have so many similar boats, I would have gotten it.

                  As for the nitro, not my cup of tea coz I'm focusing on EP.
                  For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Mad Armour
                    If it's not empty how to squeeze in the full 3700? Anyway my charger can't charge at 1C, maxxed at 2.5A only (Triton).

                    The Yamaha is made in China. Looks good but I haven't seen one run yet. Fiberglass hull, has potential for upgrade. Hardware looks serious. If I don't have so many similar boats, I would have gotten it.

                    As for the nitro, not my cup of tea coz I'm focusing on EP.
                    Oh.... with you supporting it, hmmm i am tempted of getting it liao.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      If you would like to try out the E-Molis cells for cars, please let me know. It does require some soldering and DIY though. The good thing is with the hard shell casing, it's very durable to knocks and bumps. I crashed my E-raptor head first and it survived without a scratch.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by CoolMX
                        Oh.... with you supporting it, hmmm i am tempted of getting it liao.
                        Mai tu liow!
                        For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

                        Comment

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