I don't feel like mucking around with building a PSU... too busy with other projects... if anyone is making extras... let me know
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
HP DPS-600PB 12V/24V 47A 1150W Power Supply Build Thread
Collapse
X
-
mave you're totally right regarding the power cords. I have seen pictures of power cords totally burnt through for even the HP DPS 600PB. This was one area I did not address in my build thread ugh. I shopped around the entire Sim Lim Square and Sim Lim Tower to find the thickest IEC power cords - they DO come in different thicknesses and lengths of various qualities. The shorter and thicker ones work best. And to anyone reading this, please don't sacrifice safety for convenience by using a Y-splitter so that you only run off a single wall mains. You will end up stressing the mains, and stressing the cables.
For the HP DPS 1200FB at 2400W in series, I would definitely custom make my own power cords from any of the Sim Lim Tower shops with extra thick cabling.
Comment
-
I hope it is not about the thickness of the power cable. The cable is rated at 240vac 15Amp. if that cannot handle, then the ELCB and the rest of the wiring in the house will not be able to take it too. If change to a bigger power cord, some other places may get burn up.
Maybe my assumption is wrong.
Originally posted by yhchoong View Postmave you're totally right regarding the power cords. I have seen pictures of power cords totally burnt through for even the HP DPS 600PB. This was one area I did not address in my build thread ugh. I shopped around the entire Sim Lim Square and Sim Lim Tower to find the thickest IEC power cords - they DO come in different thicknesses and lengths of various qualities. The shorter and thicker ones work best. And to anyone reading this, please don't sacrifice safety for convenience by using a Y-splitter so that you only run off a single wall mains. You will end up stressing the mains, and stressing the cables.
For the HP DPS 1200FB at 2400W in series, I would definitely custom make my own power cords from any of the Sim Lim Tower shops with extra thick cabling.
Comment
-
Originally posted by mave View PostI hope it is not about the thickness of the power cable. The cable is rated at 240vac 15Amp. if that cannot handle, then the ELCB and the rest of the wiring in the house will not be able to take it too. If change to a bigger power cord, some other places may get burn up.
Maybe my assumption is wrong.
In all seriousness though, the message I was trying to drive home in my previous post is to use a good quality power cable, not a $2 frayed, kinked and worn cable with the labeling worn off from a dark dingy corner off the budget area in Sim Lim. The specific power cables which burnt up was some old stock sold by the US feathermerchant. After that he swapped to a better grade the problem was resolved.
The maximum input current drawn by the HP DPS 600PB is 8.6A on 100-240VAC, much below the 13A rating of our household socket. Also, to anyone reading this and wanting to do 24V, you should always use 1 socket per unit, not daisy chain them onto a multi adaptor or extension bar. Seems like the cable which burnt up could not even take 8 amps of current. How scary that there are such dodgy products out there.
Anyway, the cords which I am using is the thicker 1.00 mm^2 gauge, rather than the 0.75 mm^2 gauge.
The HP DPS 1200 FB has an input current of 7.8A for 220-240VAC, this is lower than the HP DPS 600 PB, and therefore lower than the 13A limit of our socket. So the "bottleneck" is still the cable, sure it heats up, but should not burn up unless the cable is dodgily over-specced. To overcome this heat issue therefore I suggested using a thicker cable for "peace of mind".
Comment
-
Originally posted by hallobaby View Post
That looks interesting, and cheap! Well I know I have been talking about maxing out the PL8, but that's just a benchmark. In reality it's more about being able to charge your lipos in what you think is a reasonable amount of time safely, isn't it?
Comment
-
Hi!
May thanks for the informative thread and I appreciate the time you have taken to post up every detail.
I have these configured at 24v and I am looking at purchasing two chargers. I have in mind running the PL6 units, but I did read your earlier post it wont be efficient on these PSU due to their input voltage. Does running two make a difference if I set them each at 22amps? Or should I get the PL8's?
Comment
-
Originally posted by Lighty View PostHi!
May thanks for the informative thread and I appreciate the time you have taken to post up every detail.
I have these configured at 24v and I am looking at purchasing two chargers. I have in mind running the PL6 units, but I did read your earlier post it wont be efficient on these PSU due to their input voltage. Does running two make a difference if I set them each at 22amps? Or should I get the PL8's?
With 22 amps of current going through each PL6 at 24V, you will be extracting the full potential of these supplies. The complications only arise when you have a separate PSU for each PL6 and want to tap the maximum output of your PSUs. 7A out of the 47A will be wasted since the PL6 only takes in up to 40A. The PL8 will take up to 60A so they can make full use of the PSUs.
Regardless, with a pair of PL6s and a single 24V PSU you are already better off than anyone (like me :P) surviving with just a single PL8.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Mflex View PostHi - I have been reading this thread of yours for around 2 weeks now. I just want to ask - your PSU, can you still use both as 2 separate 12v psu? or is the 'floated' side unuseable as a 12v psu?
Take a look at the jumper wire that connects from the positive terminal of the non-floating ground unit to the negative terminal of the floated DC ground unit. If you connect the wire to the negative terminals of both units, the floating DC ground of the 2nd unit will now share common DC ground with that of the first unit. Now the entire set-up is operating as though it is 2 separate 12V PSUs, just physically bundled together.
Comment
Comment