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Ahh yes ... I thought the Futaba could do that. Wish JR would incorporate the same feature. That would be very nice.
As for the delay circuitry, what I have is a bit more sophisticated. I am not using the standard 8211 circuitry. Mine has quite a bit of enhancements, including inductors to block noise, extra driver for the beepers, hysteresis circuitry, etc. The one on the web is very prone to noise spikes in the power supply and the first ones I did based on that didn't work that well at all.
Incidentally, you don't really want to put a diode in series with the circuit since that will usually incur a voltage drop of about 0.5V to 0.7V and that is going to mess up the threshold voltage. If you intend to use an in-series diode, you will have to measure the actual voltage drop of that specific diode and incorporate that drop into your calculations for the threshold voltage.
Hi Daniel, Yup u have to count in the diode voltage if u intend to incorporate the simple circuit I drawn up. The purpose of the diode is to prevent capacitor from discharging back to battery/ESC when battery voltage goes sudden drop.
In addition to taking the diode voltage drop into account, you will have to consider the nominal current drain of the circuit to give a reasonable time constant for any selected capacitor value. Otherwise, given the very low current draw in non-activated mode, you may find that the voltage never drops enough for reliable detection. Apart from that, I already have an electrolytic in the supply line for low pass filtering. So far it works well enough for me but those are some useful suggestions SH.
Even if u have Electrolytic capacitor before the diode, it does not make any different (except to filter noise) because when your heli (or motor) drawn high current, and your battery cannot sustain it, the capacitor surely cannot sustain it as well. Therefore, both battery and capacitor (before diode) are in the same voltage. But the capacitor voltage after the diode is higher because the diode prevent to discharge/supply to ESC instead.
How much delay u want will depend on how high your farad for the after diode capacitor. If u want to have shorter delay but smooth downslop gradient, then u add a resistor across the after diode capactor also.
I understand what you mean but I don't think you got me. The electrolytic capacitor I had was for low-pass filtration purpose, not to deal with intermittent voltage sags. For the sag I am using a secondary delay of about 500ms that does not depend on the power supply. I am saying that since I already have the capacitor in place, it is quite easy for me to add a diode to isolate the power supply chain as you are suggesting. However, on the detector side, the current draw is very low so that if you have a big capacitance in place, as I do for my low-pass filter, you may end up with a higher delay than you really want - being that my capacitor value is constrained by my low-pass filter design, and the current draw is constrained by the 8211 itself. You could artificially increase the current drain to match the capacitance in order to get a more reasonable time constant but that is rather inelegant. Not sure if I made myself clear. If you think about it carefully, what you are suggesting is in fact a modified low pass filter, a kind of RC design and I already have that in my circuit.
In any case I've made three extra units for the guys here who were asking. Here are some extra pictures and a slightly better video of the unit:-
There are several ways you can connect this to the battery. In my case, I actually soldered some extra wires from the ESC so that I can plug the LVD in. You could also make a bypass connector, that is if you're using Ultra-Deans connectors, then solder a male connector to a female connector back to back, and then solder the LCD to the exposed parts. You then insert this into the battery supply line. If you need to I can show you how this is done.
Rats, I'm one unit short. I thought there were 3 who wanted them so I made three. Upon reviewing, it turns out that there are 4 who wants it. I guess I'll make another one tomorrow.
There are several ways you can connect this to the battery. In my case, I actually soldered some extra wires from the ESC so that I can plug the LVD in. You could also make a bypass connector, that is if you're using Ultra-Deans connectors, then solder a male connector to a female connector back to back, and then solder the LCD to the exposed parts. You then insert this into the battery supply line. If you need to I can show you how this is done.
Daniel
hmm, it sounds quite complicated
im not sure whether i would have the time to fiddle around with the 4-in-1 on my hb, so i guess i better reconsider abt getting the LVD for the moment.
so i guess you are not short of 1 LVD now daniel, sorry
Hey, Daniel
I sent pm. I'm letting mine go. Still in midst of changing batt config. So at the moment, cannot confirm the Low voltage cutoff setting. But this LVD is a steal for $20 lor... imagine how much u have to pay if buy online.....
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