need help with motor and ESC wiring

[membina]

Q1) bought the trex kit and it came with the motor and ESC. looking at the connectors, it seems that the connectors came with heat shrink and connectors but how do i connect it to the wires? the connectors has like a small concave hole. does it mean that i connect the wire to the connector and heat shrink it can liao, as long as the wire touch the connector? or do i need to do soldering (which i don't think so). most connectors i use comes with a screw attachment to just screw in the wire to the connector.

Q2) anyone can guide me how to connect the ESC and motor wires? diagrams would be useful.

so much to learn compared to HB... all in one. now blur liao.
kam sia, kam sia.

[Art]

I think you're suppose to strip the pre shrunk heat shrinks...solder and reshrink the connection...

[membina]

the connectors and wires are separates. i need to solder isit... the last time i tried to solder banana plug connectors which have a concave depression, i gave up as no matter how i try, the solder keeps dropping out when it cools. like that the wiring setup chia lat.

[Art]

when you solder...scratch the banana plug's surface with a screwdriver first...put a bit of flux...on the plug...can solder...it should form up nicely...

then solder the wires similarly...

[Daniel Wee]

Well, to solder the connectors correctly, you will need an adequately hot soldering iron with a small tip. Here is what you do:-

1. If you are soldering the power connectors, eg. Deans, slip in the heat-shrink tubing FIRST because you won't be able to get it in after soldering the connector. If you are doing banana plugs, they are easier - you can put them in later.

2. Tin the exposed wire bits first. By this I mean that you heat up the wire bit sufficiently, then apply the solder to it so that it melts and "wets" the wire. The wire should be shiny after this. The trick is you need to get it hot enough, and you basically need 3 hands to do this, or some way of securing the wire.

3. If soldering Deans, then you need to tin the flat side where you will apply the wire. If soldering banana plugs, you don't need to tin it. You do not have to "scratch" the surface. The key is heat, it has to be hot enough.

4. Make sure the connector is securely gripped (ideally) but if you're really experienced (in which case you won't be reading this) you can improvise. Because of the heat involved, which will easily melt plastic, you want to be on either a wooden or metal surface. Wooden is preferable because it won't conduct away the heat too much. If you clamp the plug with a metal clamp, be aware that you will need more heat.

You want to heat it up nicely BEFORE apply the wire and solder. The wire will get quite hot so you may want to use something to hold it. I use my hands because I can do it fast enough. You will need to hold the wire in place until the solder hardens so that it will look nice. For banana plugs, put the wire in the the secured plug. There is like a shallow hole for it. Hold the pre-tinned wire straight. Apply the soldering iron tip to the joint, it doesn't have to be exactly on it as long as it is making good contact. Once the solder on the wire melts, you can feed more solder into it until the shallow hole is filled. Like I said, the wire will get hot so you may want to hold it with something insulative. You don't want to keep the heat on for too long because the insulation for the wire may melt although the type used for the motor and ESC seems to have a higher than usual heat resistance.

It is important that your iron tip is in good condition. It should be shiny with solder and clean, without blobs of oxidized solder hanging on to it. A wet sponge will do nicely to clean it.

Heat-shrink tubings will shrink when sufficiently heated. So what you do is that you slip on the tubing once the soldering is done, and you can heat it up with either a hot air gun or even the soldering iron tip if you are careful. It should cover all exposed surfaces that won't be connected. If you over cover, you can trim it with an Exacto knife.

Connections

Basically the ESC has 5 wires sticking out that you need to solder. 3 of these go to the motor and they are red, blue and black. It should be pretty obvious which are the ones for the motor. The ESC side takes the "female" banana plugs and the motor side takes the "male" banana plugs.

The other two wires, the red and black ones on the other side of the ESC goes to the batteries via a suitable plug. If you are using Deans then these go to the "male" side of the Dean connectors while the batteries go to the "female" side.

This is really a bit difficult to describe but if you want pictures just post here and I will try to get some photos of how they're wired and soldered.

Daniel

[membina]

wow. that was really informative. good, i'll try it out. explanation is quite clear. seems i bought the wrong type of deans... hm... will go exchange for the right ones. thanks daniel for the info.

[Daniel Wee]

Let me know if you want some photos to clarify. I'd be happy to post them.

Daniel

[membina]

thnks Daniel, just did the job of soldering last night. ur info very useful in guiding the non-electronics person. kudos!

[temannis]

Brushless motor + ESC combo

Hi

Had anyone tried the Brushless motor (BM2410-12) + ESC combo from Jet? It cannot provide 1:1 weight to trust ratio on my EStarter. But with Himax 2015-4100 on B gear, it can reach 1:1.
Wanna check with you guys first before I go down to Jet.

Thanks in advance !

Note: Both motor tested on 18A Esc, GWS 1045 prop, E-Tec 1250mAh 3s battery.

[temannis]

Hi

Had anyone tried the Brushless motor (BM2410-12) + ESC combo from Jet? It cannot provide 1:1 weight to trust ratio on my EStarter. But with Himax 2015-4100 on B gear, it can reach 1:1.
Wanna check with you guys first before I go down to Jet.

Thanks in advance !

Note: Both motor tested on 18A Esc, GWS 1045 prop, E-Tec 1250mAh 3s battery.

Sorry, mistakenly posted on this tread. I intent to starts a new tread