how to solder thick wires used in larger lipo?

[Super-Hornet]

Sorry to hijack the thread, I'm using iroda butane torch 70w, and most iron/lead just dont work well, they wont melt or stick nicely. The only iron/lead that works well with iroda butane torch is, well Iroda iron/lead, will the 63/37 work well? Or where can I get Iroda iron/lead?

Well, u can try. As I said, having higher percentage of tin does help in soldering because it melt at much lower temperature.

EDIT: The reason I recommend you to use solder of 63/37 1st is because, most of the heat already conducted away by the wire. The thicker the wire, the more heat it conduct away. Thus, u require much higher temperature (therefore, wattage) in order ot solder properly. By having lower temperature solder, you can melt the solder easier at low wattage and thus helping you to solder your wire. Furthermore, the 63/37 solder is also known as "eutectic". That mean:
1. It has the lowest melting point (183 °C or 361.4 °F) of all the tin/lead alloys; and
2. The melting point is truly a point — not a range.

Thus it harden/solid at much faster...prevent u from accidentally move the joint before the solder harden (Thus, lesser waiting time and prevent dry joint).

SH

[baby_zyklon]

Yes, I agree it is the technique and unforunately....I don't have it

I just check out my solder and it is 60/40, maybe will get some 63/37. My tip temp is currently at max which is around 460c.

My problem is this...after the 8awg wire is fully wetted and coated with solder, I am unable to remelt it without putting the iron on the solder for like 10seconds or so which is super long...scare will kill the battery.

How easy will the battery be damaged by wire getting too hot?

[Super-Hornet]

When u do get 63/37 solder, u need to cut away your existing exposed wire and start over again because it already has your old 60/40 solder on it. Melting 63/37 over it and it will mix together..thus u will not get like true 63/37.

SH

[tucfaz]

Did you try dunking your wire in solder flux? That would help soften the solder when you melt it. Also, did you apply solder onto the tip of your iron before you even try to melt any existing solder? Also.. Did you make sure your tip is clean before you even start to solder?? the sequence is always.. Clean solder iron tip. Apply Flux on all metal, then solder.. same goes if you want to melt already oxidised solder.

My preference is to use solder with silver content as these are stronger which will help in our application where there are always much abuse from vibration, man handling etc..

[LittleGiant]

Yes, I agree it is the technique and unforunately....I don't have it

I just check out my solder and it is 60/40, maybe will get some 63/37. My tip temp is currently at max which is around 460c.

My problem is this...after the 8awg wire is fully wetted and coated with solder, I am unable to remelt it without putting the iron on the solder for like 10seconds or so which is super long...scare will kill the battery.

How easy will the battery be damaged by wire getting too hot?

U will need to melt some solder on the soldering tip. These melted solder will aid in the heat transfer from the soldering tip to the wire. I have no problem soldering 10AWG wires with a 40W iron. You will probably need higher than 40W for 8AWG.

[chasers]

Where can i get these 63/37 solder? I am about to start soldering some stuff and the ones i am using currently are the normal ones i guess, and they are hard to solder....

Can i get it at homefix or motherland? And also where can i get the solder tip for my iron? Mine is the 100w type and places that i have gone, they dun have stock for it.. The solder iron brand is goot..

[Super-Hornet]

The 63/37 normally use it in P.C.B or computer board. U can easily get it in Sim Lim Tower. Double confirm it before u buy. There is a 63/47 marking on the label.

EDIT: as for soldering iro tip for "goot" brand, u should be able to find it in Sim Lim Tower also. Bring your old solder tip for comparision if u needed to.

EDIT EDIT:Oops! Saw the typo error liau. I mean "There is a 63/37 marking on the label."

SH

[chasers]

The 63/37 normally use it in P.C.B or computer board. U can easily get it in Sim Lim Tower. Double confirm it before u buy. There is a 63/47 marking on the label.

EDIT: as for soldering iro tip for "goot" brand, u should be able to find it in Sim Lim Tower also. Bring your old solder tip for comparision if u needed to.

SH

Just to confirm, is it 63/37 or 63/47? Will probably pop by sl tower to check it out.. My solder iron tip tends to rust once i stop using it.. even after i coat it with some grease thingy that the shop recommended...

[Super-Hornet]

It is 63/37 because 63% + 37% = 100%
If it is 63/47, it will end up to 110%


Note: Sometime it is mark as 63/37. Sometime it is 63% Sn, 37% Pb
If u see something like Sn and Ag, then it is a lead free type.
Periodic table symbol for:
Tin = Sn
Lead = Pb
Silver = Ag


SH

[Super-Hornet]

As for the tip rusty, here is what I normally do:
BEFORE any brand new solder tip is use (heat up), u notice at the end of the tip, there appears to have some layer of coating. Coil the tip with solder. A lot of it if u don't mind. Then power up your solder. As the soldering iron heat up, the solder will melt and it will coat the solder tip. Once it is properly coated ON THE FIRST TIME, the solder tip can remain clean or perfect condition for much longer time. DO NOT FILE the soldering iron tip. Clean it with damp non plastic sponge.

SH

[chasers]

It is 63/37 because 63% + 37% = 100%
If it is 63/47, it will end up to 110%


Note: Sometime it is mark as 63/37. Sometime it is 63% Sn, 37% Pb
If u see something like Sn and Ag, then it is a lead free type.
Periodic table symbol for:
Tin = Sn
Lead = Pb
Silver = Ag


SH

I see... you mentioned 63/47 in the earlier post, thats why i thought its something that i should look out for..

[chasers]

As for the tip rusty, here is what I normally do:
BEFORE any brand new solder tip is use (heat up), u notice at the end of the tip, there appears to have some layer of coating. Coil the tip with solder. A lot of it if u don't mind. Then power up your solder. As the soldering iron heat up, the solder will melt and it will coat the solder tip. Once it is properly coated ON THE FIRST TIME, the solder tip can remain clean or perfect condition for much longer time. DO NOT FILE the soldering iron tip. Clean it with damp non plastic sponge.

SH

i tried to "coat" the tip before, but everytime i try to do that, the solder just drip away, like water droplet sliding off an oily surface.. Now i guess the tip is screwed, as i sand off the rust everytime before i start heating it up to use it..

[Super-Hornet]

Yup. U have damage the tip. Get a new solder tip.
{ Hope all this is does not appeared to be OT..but mainly for information }

SH

[LittleGiant]

Any brand of leadfree solder that is flows easily and hardens smooth and shiny? I've tried 2 different brands of lead free solder (tin and silver) with different composites and I've used them with flux but I just can't get the shiny finish like the leaded ones.

[mathsinstrument]

I not so hardcore as to buy a hakko soldering station....
But then, I tried about 8 40-100w irons and Hakko brand soldering iron are the best.....
Hakko 40-120w soldering iron, can get from SLT for abt 50 bucks.