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The TS paint is meant for Polystrene plastic, (eg: their Plastic models and 4x4 series) the paint is meant as a 'top-cote' i.e: sprayed on top of the plastic.
It has excellent leveling properties. It will chip off and crack when painted on flexible surfaces
The PS series is meant for Poly Carbonate or Lexan plastic (eg: RC cars bodyshells, some heli canopies) the paint is usually sprayed on the underside of the clear plastic. It has poor leveling properties, ie: if you spray too close or too thick, it will create a very noticable 'run', spray too far way and it will have an 'orange peel skin' effect. It will flex along with the surface when dry.
I would recommend the Tamiya PS series that comes in a Small bottle (Which you'll have to dilute with A20 thinner and shoot from an Airbrush) rather than the usual spray can.
Give it a final PS Gloss cote which they use for fuel-proofing.
For Heli.. There are 15% to 30% Nitro, some paint I think can take about 10%. Hence, anything beyond. The nitro will eat through it.. Some paint cannot even take oil stain, ie, those burned nitro fuel oil stain we have all over our heli..
I've use series of Tamiya paint before, all cannot hold leh.. Hence, have been using a mixed of Nippon Pylox and Monokote fuel proof clear coat to seal the paint..
but i think It's the clear that need to be fuel proof..
from what i know.. the tamiya PS rattle can spray that's nitro proof is more for car's cover.. and most of this car cover is transparent.. so the paint go inside of the cover, and because it's spray inside.. you don't need to clear coat..(why i know)... I use to use this paint to paint the cover of nitro buggy running on 30% nitro... and it stay quite well of up to 30%..
but for our heli canopy.. It's most of the time carbon fiber... and the paint work go on the outside of canopy.. so we need to clear coat the paint for a gloss finish..( have not found a paint that can be use with airbrush for more detail finish) that's why we need to have a clear coat to protect the paint work... and most importantly Nitro proof....
so if you don't want to have a High gloss finish on your canopy, the tamiya PS paint will have a semigloss finish...
hope I explain this well enough for everybody to understand..
correct me if I'm wrong...
How I wish the (rattle can)Tamiya PS series come with clear coat..
quester
Life is not the amount of breath you take, it's the moment that take your breath away
Avant Aurora (E1)
Avant Aurora (E2)
Mcp X
GAUI X5
LOGO 550SX
WTS
JR RS77s 72MHz synthesizer $100
will give the buyer 2 unit of electron 6 with 72.810 pin free
Ok....here is what I use to do and am doing now with my 3DMP.
Note it is definately not work of art like remotemadness.
Sand it
clean it
Spray it with Tamiya small bottle stuff from rotor
spray a couple of layer of nippon clear code
And the surface looks great and also strenghten the canopy in my case.So yes it will make it heavier a bit, but for my 3DMP the canopy is very thin so works out well.
Is the Nipon clear Nitro safe...have not tried this.. I have tried the other brand DPI anchor, and its not nitro safe... over time the surface will get a bit tacky...
Ok....here is what I use to do and am doing now with my 3DMP.
Note it is definately not work of art like remotemadness.
Sand it
clean it
Spray it with Tamiya small bottle stuff from rotor
spray a couple of layer of nippon clear code
And the surface looks great and also strenghten the canopy in my case.So yes it will make it heavier a bit, but for my 3DMP the canopy is very thin so works out well.
Jonathan
Life is not the amount of breath you take, it's the moment that take your breath away
Avant Aurora (E1)
Avant Aurora (E2)
Mcp X
GAUI X5
LOGO 550SX
WTS
JR RS77s 72MHz synthesizer $100
will give the buyer 2 unit of electron 6 with 72.810 pin free
have not found a paint that can be use with airbrush for more detail finish
Have you been to BK's Track/shop ? ...he's got a range of air-brush paint (comes in a bottle) that is meant for the task. ..i.e: Air brush painting of Nitro RC car bodies.
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