Trex 700

[JYZoom]

[QUOTE=baby_zyklon;356304]Got matching blades The yellow colour on the blades and canopy are the exact same tone and shade. Sure feels different in flight compared to the 710SB, despite that they come from the same factory.

I need a set of new blades, so is these better then Radix?

[baby_zyklon]

Not really better. Just different. Suits the lighter loading on the 700N pretty well. Should work great too for your x-50. I got the 690mm version which is quite a bit smaller. Compared to the 710SB...

There is definately less bite and collective "pop", but it doesn't load up the engine either. No sign of bogging even with +/-12degree of collective. In fast sudden stops which the radix is very good at, the rotor tech is a bit less on-the-spot and without that blade sound that I really like. My engine was loading up quite a bit more with the 710sb. Cyclic speed is similar. The rotor tech feels more "linear", but the radix felt "sharper" in fast cyclic change. My radix felt quite a bit more floaty, in fact too floaty which is why I decided to try other blades. Overall, it suits me better for now.

The 710SB is great for BIG open flights. Things like BIG tic-toc squares, big loops, big rainbows and travelling piro-flips etc. Everything seems to be faster with these. The radix is better for windy condition also, because there is so much more collective push that you can get. Requires slightly better management of the stick though.

The rotor tech 690mm is great for smaller, tighter flights. Moves like 4-point tic-toc and small funnels are more managable with these. Rolling stall also seems straighter. Now my 700N feels just like a over-powered raptor 50 with very fast cyclic. Exactly what I need.

[JYZoom]

thanks

Not really better. Just different. Suits the lighter loading on the 700N pretty well. Should work great too for your x-50. I got the 690mm version which is quite a bit smaller. Compared to the 710SB...

There is definately less bite and collective "pop", but it doesn't load up the engine either. No sign of bogging even with +/-12degree of collective. In fast sudden stops which the radix is very good at, the rotor tech is a bit less on-the-spot and without that blade sound that I really like. My engine was loading up quite a bit more with the 710sb. Cyclic speed is similar. The rotor tech feels more "linear", but the radix felt "sharper" in fast cyclic change. My radix felt quite a bit more floaty, in fact too floaty which is why I decided to try other blades. Overall, it suits me better for now.

The 710SB is great for BIG open flights. Things like BIG tic-toc squares, big loops, big rainbows and travelling piro-flips etc. Everything seems to be faster with these. The radix is better for windy condition also, because there is so much more collective push that you can get. Requires slightly better management of the stick though.

The rotor tech 690mm is great for smaller, tighter flights. Moves like 4-point tic-toc and small funnels are more managable with these. Rolling stall also seems straighter. Now my 700N feels just like a over-powered raptor 50 with very fast cyclic. Exactly what I need.

Thanks for the infomration.... which one to get

[TmMugen]

Maybe you can consider the vblade 690? if you like the "pop" effect plus it is damm stiff..

[TmMugen]

A show of hands who will buy?

TmMugen...full ball link set with flybar cage arm and grip post.

[TmMugen]

Got a new white canopy and start spraying..

[50 Size heli]

Any 2nd hand ones comming online yet? Im a prospective buyer

[kiratime]

baby eh sorry to trouble whats the total cost of the electronics and the kit without tx of course? please and thank you!

[kiratime]

baby eh sorry to trouble whats the total cost of the electronics and the kit without tx of course? please and thank you!

just to add on is there any conversion kit from torque to belt?? thanks

[baby_zyklon]

Baby? I assume thats referring to me?

No belt conversion. I prefer belt too, especially the single pulley type on the raptor but so far the 700N torque tube gear seems to be pretty beefy.

Cost me 2.8k w/o tx rx. Got some of my stuff cheaper than market price so saved quite a bit, plus I sold away the governor that came with it. Just wait for people to sell NIB or promotion offer.

For the time being, I will say....erm...avoid the 700N first. Because...

1. Main shaft, tail shaft need to oil every 2-3days or it will rust...maybe its my home environment, but my raptor main and tail shaft don't rust and to think I am using cheap $5 oem shaft on my raptor.

2. Fuel tank leak. Not everyone will have this problem though. I thought I was safe since I didn't have the problem after almost 50 flights. But it started leaking when I swop the stopper into the inside hole. Now put the tank bung in inside or outside hole also leak. I have found the reason...the hole on the tank for the stopper is actually worn out and distorted. Never had this happen on a raptor before, so all I can say is DAMN POOR QUALITY PLASTIC.

In addition, changing the cluck line takes...YEARS if you use the inside hole, especially if you use a YS with the regulator blocking the way. Obviously the heli was never designed with the knowledge or understanding that there are people making and selling YS engines in the world.
Of course you can use the other hole for the cluck, but you get other problem.

And removing the tank out of the frame requires a lot of force to get push the air trap at the top out. Putting it in is even worst. Makes you wonder why didn't they just take the 600N tank and material, crop it by a factor of 1.5 and put it into the 700N.

3. Button head screws on the main frame are made of...erm...metallic cheese. They strip after you take out and put back 2-3 times, that is assuming you don't use loctite. Some have the problem, some don't. This is not due to quality of the hex you use but rather your luck. Why? Because those screws have a short collar that is not centered on the screws, so if yours is more crocked, then you have a problem. It might have been ok if they used a normal cap screw, but align choose to use a button head with very limited bite for hex driver. Of course you can always replace them everytime you take them out, but that screw is $12 a pack for 16, which translate to 75cents a piece Go count the number of such screws on the 700N and you will understand why its a concern.
Same problem with the spindle screws. Now you know how align make their buck?

4. Ball links are always loose. Maybe the newer ones are better, but that is assuming rotor has got stock.

5. Rotor has become my LEAST favourite LHS. Lets just ignore their pricing system of increasing the price of everything that always sell good( YS91SR, 700N, OS 91HZ..etc) because it makes economic sense. Stock wise, this don't have, that don't have. Amusing as it might sound, you still can't even find a pack of ball links for the 700N in rotor. And you will assume they will at least stock some linkage balls for the 700N after carrying the heli since start of aug? Wrong. NO STOCK. Same goes for the canopy and tail pitch slider arm. So amazing that everyone else in the world can get stock even though they are not the sole distro for their country. Amazing. Amusing.
And the emails they reply are...a joke, that is assuming they do reply you in the first place. All I can say is, the Rotor Hobby today is not the Rotor Hobby of yesteryears.

Lots of other issues, clutch, main gear, ball links snap, swashplate bearing...never had those happen to me and I think chances of it happening in our climate is not so high anyway. Nonetheless, the problems I have just scream CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP. Pay peanut, get monkey. Issues I have, might or might not be present in later batch of 700N, but why take the risk and waste all your time?

Just some useless, morning ranting.

[remotemadness]

go aurora...

[Murdanny]

Baby? I assume thats referring to me?

No belt conversion. I prefer belt too, especially the single pulley type on the raptor but so far the 700N torque tube gear seems to be pretty beefy.

Cost me 2.8k w/o tx rx. Got some of my stuff cheaper than market price so saved quite a bit, plus I sold away the governor that came with it. Just wait for people to sell NIB or promotion offer.

For the time being, I will say....erm...avoid the 700N first. Because...

1. Main shaft, tail shaft need to oil every 2-3days or it will rust...maybe its my home environment, but my raptor main and tail shaft don't rust and to think I am using cheap $5 oem shaft on my raptor.

2. Fuel tank leak. Not everyone will have this problem though. I thought I was safe since I didn't have the problem after almost 50 flights. But it started leaking when I swop the stopper into the inside hole. Now put the tank bung in inside or outside hole also leak. I have found the reason...the hole on the tank for the stopper is actually worn out and distorted. Never had this happen on a raptor before, so all I can say is DAMN POOR QUALITY PLASTIC.

In addition, changing the cluck line takes...YEARS if you use the inside hole, especially if you use a YS with the regulator blocking the way. Obviously the heli was never designed with the knowledge or understanding that there are people making and selling YS engines in the world.
Of course you can use the other hole for the cluck, but you get other problem.

And removing the tank out of the frame requires a lot of force to get push the air trap at the top out. Putting it in is even worst. Makes you wonder why didn't they just take the 600N tank and material, crop it by a factor of 1.5 and put it into the 700N.

3. Button head screws on the main frame are made of...erm...metallic cheese. They strip after you take out and put back 2-3 times, that is assuming you don't use loctite. Some have the problem, some don't. This is not due to quality of the hex you use but rather your luck. Why? Because those screws have a short collar that is not centered on the screws, so if yours is more crocked, then you have a problem. It might have been ok if they used a normal cap screw, but align choose to use a button head with very limited bite for hex driver. Of course you can always replace them everytime you take them out, but that screw is $12 a pack for 16, which translate to 75cents a piece Go count the number of such screws on the 700N and you will understand why its a concern.
Same problem with the spindle screws. Now you know how align make their buck?

4. Ball links are always loose. Maybe the newer ones are better, but that is assuming rotor has got stock.

5. Rotor has become my LEAST favourite LHS. Lets just ignore their pricing system of increasing the price of everything that always sell good( YS91SR, 700N, OS 91HZ..etc) because it makes economic sense. Stock wise, this don't have, that don't have. Amusing as it might sound, you still can't even find a pack of ball links for the 700N in rotor. And you will assume they will at least stock some linkage balls for the 700N after carrying the heli since start of aug? Wrong. NO STOCK. Same goes for the canopy and tail pitch slider arm. So amazing that everyone else in the world can get stock even though they are not the sole distro for their country. Amazing. Amusing.
And the emails they reply are...a joke, that is assuming they do reply you in the first place. All I can say is, the Rotor Hobby today is not the Rotor Hobby of yesteryears.

Lots of other issues, clutch, main gear, ball links snap, swashplate bearing...never had those happen to me and I think chances of it happening in our climate is not so high anyway. Nonetheless, the problems I have just scream CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP. Pay peanut, get monkey. Issues I have, might or might not be present in later batch of 700N, but why take the risk and waste all your time?

Just some useless, morning ranting.

I have a same problem no 2 and 3. When i pump in fuel it leaks. and now that you have mention it is actually the stopper of the fuel tank i think it makes sense now.

now im not using a button for my rotor head. the first time i crashed it, it stripped all the thread. =s

thanks baby for the info.

[jansonfinn]

baby eh sorry to trouble whats the total cost of the electronics and the kit without tx of course? please and thank you!

haha, for a second i thought who is ur 'baby' in DH!

[bigfilsing]

Baby? I assume thats referring to me?

No belt conversion. I prefer belt too, especially the single pulley type on the raptor but so far the 700N torque tube gear seems to be pretty beefy.

Cost me 2.8k w/o tx rx. Got some of my stuff cheaper than market price so saved quite a bit, plus I sold away the governor that came with it. Just wait for people to sell NIB or promotion offer.

For the time being, I will say....erm...avoid the 700N first. Because...

1. Main shaft, tail shaft need to oil every 2-3days or it will rust...maybe its my home environment, but my raptor main and tail shaft don't rust and to think I am using cheap $5 oem shaft on my raptor.

2. Fuel tank leak. Not everyone will have this problem though. I thought I was safe since I didn't have the problem after almost 50 flights. But it started leaking when I swop the stopper into the inside hole. Now put the tank bung in inside or outside hole also leak. I have found the reason...the hole on the tank for the stopper is actually worn out and distorted. Never had this happen on a raptor before, so all I can say is DAMN POOR QUALITY PLASTIC.

In addition, changing the cluck line takes...YEARS if you use the inside hole, especially if you use a YS with the regulator blocking the way. Obviously the heli was never designed with the knowledge or understanding that there are people making and selling YS engines in the world.
Of course you can use the other hole for the cluck, but you get other problem.

And removing the tank out of the frame requires a lot of force to get push the air trap at the top out. Putting it in is even worst. Makes you wonder why didn't they just take the 600N tank and material, crop it by a factor of 1.5 and put it into the 700N.

3. Button head screws on the main frame are made of...erm...metallic cheese. They strip after you take out and put back 2-3 times, that is assuming you don't use loctite. Some have the problem, some don't. This is not due to quality of the hex you use but rather your luck. Why? Because those screws have a short collar that is not centered on the screws, so if yours is more crocked, then you have a problem. It might have been ok if they used a normal cap screw, but align choose to use a button head with very limited bite for hex driver. Of course you can always replace them everytime you take them out, but that screw is $12 a pack for 16, which translate to 75cents a piece Go count the number of such screws on the 700N and you will understand why its a concern.
Same problem with the spindle screws. Now you know how align make their buck?

4. Ball links are always loose. Maybe the newer ones are better, but that is assuming rotor has got stock.

5. Rotor has become my LEAST favourite LHS. Lets just ignore their pricing system of increasing the price of everything that always sell good( YS91SR, 700N, OS 91HZ..etc) because it makes economic sense. Stock wise, this don't have, that don't have. Amusing as it might sound, you still can't even find a pack of ball links for the 700N in rotor. And you will assume they will at least stock some linkage balls for the 700N after carrying the heli since start of aug? Wrong. NO STOCK. Same goes for the canopy and tail pitch slider arm. So amazing that everyone else in the world can get stock even though they are not the sole distro for their country. Amazing. Amusing.
And the emails they reply are...a joke, that is assuming they do reply you in the first place. All I can say is, the Rotor Hobby today is not the Rotor Hobby of yesteryears.

Lots of other issues, clutch, main gear, ball links snap, swashplate bearing...never had those happen to me and I think chances of it happening in our climate is not so high anyway. Nonetheless, the problems I have just scream CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP. Pay peanut, get monkey. Issues I have, might or might not be present in later batch of 700N, but why take the risk and waste all your time?

Just some useless, morning ranting.

You do like a rant don't you It's great to see somebody taking time to write up their woes with a particular heli rather than just moaning or slagging it off completely.

love the metalic cheese coment

[GTR35]

baby eh sorry to trouble whats the total cost of the electronics and the kit without tx of course? please and thank you!

wah kenneath so fast looking for a 90 liao. Looks like u are upgrading very fast wor