Gyro - Using End Point Adjustment or Dual Rates

[detach8]

Well piro rates was your initial question to this post.

Wagging usually constitutes gyro settings, and a little tweaking at the field plus asking around should usually solve your problem. There's so many things that can affect how a gyro sensing works, including temperature, humidity, servo horn, servo type, tail blade, linkages, etc.

[genexis]

Guys, I have a burning question. Especially for Futaba 401 and JR G770T Gyros matched with Futaba 9254/9257 servos.

I am practising
-Dual Rates 100% for rudder.
Yes, leave it at 100% for a start. If you find the piro rate too fast, reduce this a little
-Lowering End Point Adjustment of servo for slower piro rates.
Lowering/increasing the end points of your transmitter for your rudder channel will not make any changes to the throws of the servo. It will only change the rate of piro, just like the dual rates. However, i was told as much as possible, leave this as 100.



I have heard
-End Point Adjustment of servo at maximum, eg. 120% or 150% instead of 100%
-Lowering of Dual Rates for slower piro rates.


I think you heard about having the rudder throws at 120-140% is for higher end gyros such as the 611. There is a control on the gyro ITSELF that can be adjusted. For your 401, you have that limit also, but no percentile indication. So just setup such that it will not bind.


May I know which technique you are applying and what are your electronics & reviews?

Thanks for sharing.

As for your wagging, i am guessing that you are only at hovering stage. If you are using a 401 and above gyro, if you are having constant tail wags when hovering, most of the time is the mechanical setup.

Try these:
1) Remove your linkage rod from your tail slider, ensure that the tail slider is SILKY SMOOTH. No bindings at ANY ends. if not, do something about... oil ... sand paper.. etc...

2) Ensure there is minimum free play at your slider. Try holding the tail blades firm, and move your tail slider. Is there a lot of play? If yes, i suggeset you rebuild your tail, purchase new parts if needed.

3) The hole at your tail servo horn should be around 6mm from the center if you are flying a 450 size. And around 13-15mm from the center if you are flying 50 size. If yours is too close or to far, the tail may not hold well.

4) When the servo initialize at start up, do not move it. Ensure the linkage rod is 90 degrees to the servo horn. (Very important step!) Also ... for a start, *note: this is not the proper way, but it works for a start*, when the servo horn is 90 degrees to the linkage rod, the the tail blades should be 0 pitch. If not move the servo nearer or further along the tail boom.

After all the above are done, then your play with your gain. If fast wag, decrease gain. If slow wag, increase gain a little bit.

If intermittent kicks, then you have a serious problem.

[HotDogBun]

Thanks Genexis.
A good start to resolve my problem. You are right in a way, the wagging kicks in when I move collective to zero upon descend.
The only strange thing is that the JRG770T has more wagging than 401, and this makes me very puzzled and curious.


Didn't know my post was unclear from the start. I thought I posted correctly. Pls refer to my first post for better understanding.

[HotDogBun]

Ops, the 3rd post. First post was basically about the setup types and what are the cause of actions.

[detach8]

Thanks Genexis.
You are right in a way, the wagging kicks in when I move collective to zero upon descend.

Are you using a governor or not? If not, when at zero collective, you probably have too high a headspeed if you flatten out your throttle curve too much (e.g. 100-95-100), making the tail "sensitive" and thus the wag. Is the wag a slow wag, or a fast one? If you do not have gov enabled, tach your heaspeed on the ground at 50% throttle (0 deg), and at 25% (-5 deg) and also 0% (-10 deg). Try to keep the headspeed consistent at all three points.