Mini-T Questions / Mods

[Nosein]

Hi, just bought the MT and wanted to learn from the experienced owners out there. Hope can get opinions about the followings:

1) Main Blade Grip
Refer to Awesome's posting (http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/show...postcount=257), anyone knows the reason why the TT blade Grip design is such that the ball link is slanted originally? Awesome's mod (shortening blade ball holder arm to have the link vertical) make sense but I was just thinking that maybe TT have a reason to make the blade ball holder arm so long even though the link is slanted.

2) HS65 mod
Intent to use HS65 and knows that the servo mount need to be widen and wanted to widen them before assembly, especially the mount molded into the frame (elevator mount). Is it just widen centrally ie. remove 1 mm on each side or is it better to remove material from just one side - I wanted to get the control link as centre as possible.

Also, anyone can advise if using HS65, what is the best distance to use on the horn ie. distance from centre of ball link to centre of horn-fixing screw.

3) Metal Head
The Metal Grip/Hub/Washout looking interesting. Any opinion if they are worth upgrading to? I plan on using the Mini-T to learn inverted hover.

Thanks in advance.

[Ivan M]

Hi, just bought the MT and wanted to learn from the experienced owners out there. Hope can get opinions about the followings:

1) Main Blade Grip
Refer to Awesome's posting (http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/show...postcount=257), anyone knows the reason why the TT blade Grip design is such that the ball link is slanted originally? Awesome's mod (shortening blade ball holder arm to have the link vertical) make sense but I was just thinking that maybe TT have a reason to make the blade ball holder arm so long even though the link is slanted.

2) HS65 mod
Intent to use HS65 and knows that the servo mount need to be widen and wanted to widen them before assembly, especially the mount molded into the frame (elevator mount). Is it just widen centrally ie. remove 1 mm on each side or is it better to remove material from just one side - I wanted to get the control link as centre as possible.

Also, anyone can advise if using HS65, what is the best distance to use on the horn ie. distance from centre of ball link to centre of horn-fixing screw.

3) Metal Head
The Metal Grip/Hub/Washout looking interesting. Any opinion if they are worth upgrading to? I plan on using the Mini-T to learn inverted hover.

Thanks in advance.

For #2, u need to widen 1mm on each side. It's proven to be effective. I'm using the 3rd hole from the centre.

For #3, metal parts are highly desirable and sexy, but may cause serious damage as parts will not break easily and during crash landings, the shock will be passed on to the main mast parts. More damage inflicted this way.

For example, I crashed the other day, the tail boom was dented and the main rotor grip broke. if Í'm on metal bling, my best guess would be the shaft would be damaged.

[probasz]

[QUOTE=Nosein]Hi, just bought the MT and wanted to learn from the experienced owners out there. Hope can get opinions about the followings:


2) HS65 mod
Intent to use HS65 and knows that the servo mount need to be widen and wanted to widen them before assembly, especially the mount molded into the frame (elevator mount). Is it just widen centrally ie. remove 1 mm on each side or is it better to remove material from just one side - I wanted to get the control link as centre as possible.

you should shave them 1mm on both sides to get them exactly within the manual stated linkage length measurement

Also, anyone can advise if using HS65, what is the best distance to use on the horn ie. distance from centre of ball link to centre of horn-fixing screw.

the 3rd hole from the screw will be the best bet

[johndyl]

the shafts, main/feathering(spindle), are usually bent when involved in a crash, be it metal or plastic head. I find the TT main shaft to be especially soft when compared to align.

as for inverted hovering, metal parts will give u more precision i guess but u can start with plastic first. I am still using the plastic head for this though some slop has developed but overall it is still ok.(metal parts still short of hub)

[Ghostfit]

Apart from the obvious bling factor ....'pple go for metal parts because they wanna run ridiculas Headspeeds ! ......dun forget the CF blades too !

...Just recently witness a 'plastic' blade grip fail on a 'large' heli (in the AIR !) due to too high HS ! ......not a pretty sight !

[glenn cain]

if anything, i think a metal headhub and full plastic is the best setup for noob of all noob flying on MT. you don't want to spend alot of money changing out the hubs when the shaft hole become egg shaped, caused by forces that can't barely out-shapen the mainshaft. other than that, a stock MT is a great investment you don't have much ability to throw at it yet. Though i still must admit for a edgey i-want-more-person such as me, such tendency has led me to go full metal for my heli head, with radix blade. Freaking awesome change of power and response, but fear of crash too. So you can do your math on this one.

I think the blade grip ball link position is not much of a worry. I could track my stock blade perfect on plastic grips, at least. Of course there were incidents that proved otherwise, but oh well. If you read in more in rcgroups and runryder, it may have been to the purpose of the offset delta, or something like that, which include the effects of the rotor disc changing its overall facing angle to the heli fuselage, and when that happens, some other forces come in play. I am still blur about this idea, so do consult other specialists.

I did no mod to my servoy tray. I just force the hs65 all the way in, such that the tray holders bend a slight bit. but as long as the servo is secure, i don't think its much of a difference, coz it has yet to display any uncontrollable or obnoxious cyclic behaviours yet. of course if you are a geometric perfectionist, then you would want to adjust that.

[basher]

The MiniT plastic hub tends to gets shaky after a while. Either get the metal hub from the start (its worth it) with the rest of the part remaining as plastic, or when the plastic hub starts shaking, use a thin plastic sheet between the shaft and the hub (think c*nd*m) to minimise play. Taught by my sifu Ghostfit...

[Heli_fanatic]

if anything, i think a metal headhub and full plastic is the best setup for noob of all noob flying on MT. you don't want to spend alot of money changing out the hubs when the shaft hole become egg shaped, caused by forces that can't barely out-shapen the mainshaft. other than that, a stock MT is a great investment you don't have much ability to throw at it yet. Though i still must admit for a edgey i-want-more-person such as me, such tendency has led me to go full metal for my heli head, with radix blade. Freaking awesome change of power and response, but fear of crash too. So you can do your math on this one.

glenn ... get pay already then put aside some and save then go on spending spree should keep you very happy
btw ive seen a stock mini titan take 3200 head speed ... with align woodies reccomended 2400 only

[Nosein]

Hi Guys, thanks very much for all the info/advice . Just started my build today. Widen the servo mount about 1mm on each side and the HB65 really fits well

Looks like its a good idea to upgrade to a metal hub at least. But checked R*t*r and R*E but no stock for the hub Hope they come in soon.

The blade grip can be metal or plastic. Maybe stay plastic for a while until I get the inverted thingy nailed.

No one have opinon on whether its good or useful to upgrade the washout base?

In anycase, many thanks again.

[justfly]

I just built up my Mini T and let me clock a little more air time to see if the hub really goes egged shape like many others say. Meanwhile I am very pleased with the build quality of this bird!

[Ghostfit]

I just built up my Mini T and let me clock a little more air time to see if the hub really goes egged shape like many others say. Meanwhile I am very pleased with the build quality of this bird!

If you overtighten the bolts locking the Hub to the shaft, the hole in the hub WILL become egg shape regardless of the operational time !

.....the same goes for the bolt at the bottom ! ......only difference is that it will manifest itself as drag on the one way bearing.

[Nosein]

Kasama MT Rotor Headset

Since the TT E325 rotor hub is out of stock at LHS, what's the take on Kasama Rotor Headset? Its something like $203 for quite a large set of CNC parts So how? Wait for TT or go for Kasama? Any peformance improvement with the Kasama set? Thanks.

[awesome]

Hi Guys, thanks very much for all the info/advice . Just started my build today. Widen the servo mount about 1mm on each side and the HB65 really fits well

Looks like its a good idea to upgrade to a metal hub at least. But checked R*t*r and R*E but no stock for the hub Hope they come in soon.

The blade grip can be metal or plastic. Maybe stay plastic for a while until I get the inverted thingy nailed.

No one have opinon on whether its good or useful to upgrade the washout base?

In anycase, many thanks again.

changing the washout base to metal is ok. the stock doesn't come with bushing but don't think it will get twisted..you may want to try sliding it up and down the shaft to see if there is any friction..

[johndyl]

Since the TT E325 rotor hub is out of stock at LHS, what's the take on Kasama Rotor Headset? Its something like $203 for quite a large set of CNC parts So how? Wait for TT or go for Kasama? Any peformance improvement with the Kasama set? Thanks.

kasama set doesnt come with the swash plate.......

[Heliguy]

Since the TT E325 rotor hub is out of stock at LHS, what's the take on Kasama Rotor Headset? Its something like $203 for quite a large set of CNC parts So how? Wait for TT or go for Kasama? Any peformance improvement with the Kasama set? Thanks.

I went for the metal upgrades from Thunder Tiger. IMO, Prefer to get OEM parts.
Kasama looks quite ex. Dun think there's any performance difference.