How do you mount your Lipo on your micro heli?
1) Span wise: The longer side of the Lipo pack along the length of the heli?
2) Perpendicular: The longer side of the Lipo pack at 90 degrees to the length of the heli.
I had to mount it length wise because of extra tail motor, had to shift some weight forward. After that, forward and back ward flight felt like "see-saw ride", and banking turns happen very fast and feel twitchy.
B4, i mounted it perpendicular when i had only 1 tail motor, found it easier to turn the heli for side ins or nose ins. The turns are tighter, the heli is able to rotate without much cyclic correction...
With the correct lengthwise mounting, everytime I rudder left or right, the heli "skids" through the air... Kinda like nascar races where they use 'drift' tires and do 'drift' turns around the corners.
Is it my lousy skill? Is it the heli batt position? Or is it because the swashplate does not bind at cyclic tilts of the swash? Please help. Not sure if i'm "over-modding"
1) Span wise: The longer side of the Lipo pack along the length of the heli?
2) Perpendicular: The longer side of the Lipo pack at 90 degrees to the length of the heli.
I had to mount it length wise because of extra tail motor, had to shift some weight forward. After that, forward and back ward flight felt like "see-saw ride", and banking turns happen very fast and feel twitchy.
B4, i mounted it perpendicular when i had only 1 tail motor, found it easier to turn the heli for side ins or nose ins. The turns are tighter, the heli is able to rotate without much cyclic correction...
With the correct lengthwise mounting, everytime I rudder left or right, the heli "skids" through the air... Kinda like nascar races where they use 'drift' tires and do 'drift' turns around the corners.
Is it my lousy skill? Is it the heli batt position? Or is it because the swashplate does not bind at cyclic tilts of the swash? Please help. Not sure if i'm "over-modding"
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