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Besides pinching the fuel line and letting it run dry, did you apply "After-run" oil into the piston and bearings via removal of the backplate ? ....I remember this helped prevent rust in my 1/8 onroad car's engines inbetween outings (1-3 weeks) .....any periods longer than 1 month, I'll strip out the engine and do a through clean up !
HEY ! ......welcome to the Mini Titan E325 Club !
No! Do not use after-run oil on your OS 50 hyper! CKS is running Coolpower 20% and their producer (Morganfuel) certainly does not advise putting after-run oil..
No! Do not use after-run oil on your OS 50 hyper! CKS is running Coolpower 20% and their producer (Morganfuel) certainly does not advise putting after-run oil..
I understand what they're refering to as "Petroleum based" after-run oil is in fact normal lube like WD-40, LPS, etc (Which some guys used to swear by ) ....and I would agree with them.
But I'm refering to proper after-run oil like "Tornado after-run" and another Japanese brand (forget the name) which is formulated specially for nitro/Methonal fuel.
Personally, ALL my engines, (Cars, Planes and Helis) get a dose of "Redex" if they're gonna be put away for more than 1 month.
Usually I just cut the throttle at the end of the day. I don't run dry and I don't apply afterrun oil. Actually, I think bearing issue might also have got something to do with headspeed, load and temp, but I am not too sure also.
There was once I tried the run dry method and I found that my bearing was already ringing after 2.5gallons or so, but I was running slightly more than 2000rpm on the head then with the 8.5ratio. The heli was very powerful, but sounded like a sewing machine in the air .
I don't really believe in run dry method because when I was running cars and 30size heli many many years ago, I have never run the engine dry and normally, the engine seems to get tired before the bearing die. I was using trinity monster horsepower which is castor and syn blend and pro-glow, which although claims to be fully syn, had a bit of castor. That might have helped me too.
20gallons sounds like a lot, change it when you are free. Better to change a pair of $8 bearings than to change a $40 ring piston set. i have had my bearing disintergrated thrice on different engine and what was consistent was that if you keep the rpm high, they keep on running with broken ring and piston. That is of course if the fragment didn't jam the piston and broke the con-rod.
this topic is quite torn actually. Some campers would say running it dry will protect the engine and the other side would say otherwise. But after experiencing problems during start up after running dry and after reading the lost engine story on morgan fuel website. I m convinced that the way to run is to leave the fuel in the engine.
we dont run dry out car engine do we..or our bike engine..?
Plus i feel safer with the oil displacing any water in the engine.
Just my point of view.
My Hangar:
Heli 1:T-REX 450SE (Hughes MD 500)
(SE-maiden 15/03/06)
(XL-maiden 16/10/05)
Heli 2:RAPTOR 50 TITAN
(TITAN-maiden 16/06/2006)
Heli 3:T-REX 500ESP (T-rex maiden 25/9/10)
(FLASHER 500-maiden 08/10/2009 R.I.P:09/08/10)
Heli 4:Flasher 250
(maiden 13/09/2010)
Airplane 1:GWS A-4SU SkyhawkFor Sale Airplane 2:GWS P-40N WarHawk RAAF maiden flight 20/08/10 For Sale
Transmitter:
JR 9XII(XPS 2.4)
Its all fun & games till the bills come..
haha
another campers say those fuel accelerate rusting coz they atract moisture or something like that.. i guess its up to ppl's luck too
Thanks all for sharing
Originally posted by UH-1H
this topic is quite torn actually. Some campers would say running it dry will protect the engine and the other side would say otherwise. But after experiencing problems during start up after running dry and after reading the lost engine story on morgan fuel website. I m convinced that the way to run is to leave the fuel in the engine.
we dont run dry out car engine do we..or our bike engine..?
Plus i feel safer with the oil displacing any water in the engine.
Just my point of view.
Heli:
. Quick Japan EP8 EX (A30-8XL+CC60+Gy401)
. Raptor 50 Titan (OS50+522+CarbSmart+Gy611)
. Trex 600 EP (1512/3D+CC110HV+DS760 w/8900)
. Trex 600 N (RL53+523+CarbSmart+DS760 w/8900)
. B/W Stratus (OS91 SZ+MP5+ATG+CarbSmart+DS760 w/8900+8717)
Plane:
. Ok Model Medallion
. E*Star Storch
. ElectriFly S.E.5a
. Mpx EzGlider (Slope)
ive been running the engine dry quite religiously.. i guess it didnt help
so i think i shall try just cutting the throttle
Like what I always tell people, the bearing is too small for the load and rpm that we put it through today. Years ago, 1850rpm was already considered GOOD for aerobatic flight. Nowadays, 2000rpm seems to be the norm and looking at those align video, I think sooner or later, 2100rpm is going to be standard. At the pace that we are putting it through, its going to die young wheather you abuse it or baby it, so might as well FLY IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT.
haha
i like that... meaning ive to stock up on bearing too
where can i can them from?
Originally posted by baby_zyklon
Like what I always tell people, the bearing is too small for the load and rpm that we put it through today. Years ago, 1850rpm was already considered GOOD for aerobatic flight. Nowadays, 2000rpm seems to be the norm and looking at those align video, I think sooner or later, 2100rpm is going to be standard. At the pace that we are putting it through, its going to die young wheather you abuse it or baby it, so might as well FLY IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT.
Heli:
. Quick Japan EP8 EX (A30-8XL+CC60+Gy401)
. Raptor 50 Titan (OS50+522+CarbSmart+Gy611)
. Trex 600 EP (1512/3D+CC110HV+DS760 w/8900)
. Trex 600 N (RL53+523+CarbSmart+DS760 w/8900)
. B/W Stratus (OS91 SZ+MP5+ATG+CarbSmart+DS760 w/8900+8717)
Plane:
. Ok Model Medallion
. E*Star Storch
. ElectriFly S.E.5a
. Mpx EzGlider (Slope)
3places that I know of.
1. Around rotor hobby, same block as pansun screw shop I think. Walk toward the mscp entrance from rotor toward the coffeeshop(the other one, not the one under rotor). Walk around the block, should see it. I think unit number #01-19x or 01-20x.
2. SLS bearing. Around eminent plaza area. Has got its own building amount the shop houses. Quite difficult to miss. Can see from main road. Think sell SKF and NSK.
3. Kian hoe bearing. Around jurong industrial area. Forgot the actual add, but think should be able to find at street directory.com . Sells NTN and EZO.
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