heli throttle hold

[Ghostfit]

400 mm is already quite big, so I don't think that's a problem. The EP8 is quite a large heli compared to the TRex.

When I had my TRex, the blades was not really free-wheeling with the stock 1-way bearing. It still has considerable resistance.

In order to have a good auto rotation, the blades should be "frictionless" when spinning on its own.

I've tried "simulated" autos on my Trex with 315 pro woodies.

What I mean by "simulated" is that everything is done in normal mode with a pitch curve of -2* inh 5* inh 95* .....climb the heli as high as possible, ensure steady hover before chopping the collective stick to zero.

The first 10 to 15 feet of the heli's downward movement is scary but after that it seems to slowed as if the rotor blades suddenly became parachute ! ...no doubt there is insufficent HS for a proper flaring at the end of the auto (-2 as compared to -3/-5 to gain HS) but as I'm in normal mode, I just increase the collective slowly to return to a hover.

The problem is to overcome the initial fear when the heli is forced down by the period when the collective is in the negative range and the motor is still running, this is seen as a very fast dropping of height and you'll need nerves to continue and resist the urge to "bale out"

[Ghostfit]

But back to the thread starter topic;

.....I dun use my throttle hold for Autos (Haven needed to yet ) ....but I use it heck of a lot as a "safety switch" whenever the battery is connected and I need to carry the heli to and from the launch pad. .....I've seen too many incidents where pple' accidently hit their idle switches and neckstrap pushing the throttle stick upwards !

[mave]

I notice that too. So for that matter, instead of depending on the Throttle hold switch, I have a power switch on the heli that can turn off the motor alone. This gives me the ability to initialize the reciever and servos; check their working condition before turning on the motor. I would imagine that if the reciever for some reason is not working, there will be no chance for the motor to spin up because it is hardwired to its on switch that has been turn off.

But back to the thread starter topic;

.....I dun use my throttle hold for Autos (Haven needed to yet ) ....but I use it heck of a lot as a "safety switch" whenever the battery is connected and I need to carry the heli to and from the launch pad. .....I've seen too many incidents where pple' accidently hit their idle switches and neckstrap pushing the throttle stick upwards !

[CKS]

Where did u get the switch powerful enu for 20-30A?

I notice that too. So for that matter, instead of depending on the Throttle hold switch, I have a power switch on the heli that can turn off the motor alone. This gives me the ability to initialize the reciever and servos; check their working condition before turning on the motor. I would imagine that if the reciever for some reason is not working, there will be no chance for the motor to spin up because it is hardwired to its on switch that has been turn off.

[Ghostfit]

Yeah ! ....where did you get a 20A-30A switch ? ....I'm aware that the Quark ESC has a switch to power on/off the ESC but that would also power on/off the whole system (Rx,Servos and all)