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    My Dynam huges 300 is like shaking...

    My Dynam huges 300 is like shaking the landing pad left and right touching and up when I throttle up. Could anyone tell me what happen?

    How should I use trim/fine tuning control on transmitter?

    Thank you in advance.

    Regards,
    Arto.
    Dynam Hughes 300 fp with stock blades and GWS DD tail upgrade...
    TX: 72.830MHz, mode 2.


    Can hover already, now learning orientation...

    #2
    oh, and, should I set back fine tuning to center everytime I turn off and turn on the transmitter or helicopter?

    Anyone?

    Regards,
    Arto.
    Dynam Hughes 300 fp with stock blades and GWS DD tail upgrade...
    TX: 72.830MHz, mode 2.


    Can hover already, now learning orientation...

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Artosoft
      My Dynam huges 300 is like shaking the landing pad left and right touching and up when I throttle up. Could anyone tell me what happen?

      How should I use trim/fine tuning control on transmitter?

      Thank you in advance.

      Regards,
      Arto.
      Ya, saw its shaking outside the shop too...
      Blade balanced? fly bar horizontal? etc...
      The SH blade is heavier than the original HB blade.

      Think you need to join funfly. They will give you advice.

      Which part you stay?

      AIR
      HB K2 - Service
      CopterX 450 - Hanger
      IFO - Service
      Walkera H05 mini plane
      JR X3810
      LAND
      Kyosho Javelin - Garage
      Tamiya TT01 Subaru WRX - In Service
      Tamiya M03 Hello Kitty Swift - For wife
      Cen Mini Madness - For son
      Team Losi Speed T - In Service
      Tamiya TamTech Frog
      Sanwa MXA
      Sanwa MX3S
      Losi 2.4GHz

      Crash Lander
      Can crash land anytime anywhere

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by badtzmaru
        Ya, saw its shaking outside the shop too...
        Blade balanced? fly bar horizontal? etc...
        The SH blade is heavier than the original HB blade.

        Think you need to join funfly. They will give you advice.

        Which part you stay?
        I stay in tanjong katong area. Near the Dakota area (10 mins by walk from my place) there is a big green grass area.
        Dynam Hughes 300 fp with stock blades and GWS DD tail upgrade...
        TX: 72.830MHz, mode 2.


        Can hover already, now learning orientation...

        Comment


          #5
          Another thing that disturb me about Dynam Hughes 300 fp is the electronics (mixer 3in1 and receiver) are only stick together and hold by double tape to the main frame. It is looks like the mixer 3in1 that contain piezo gyro is not alignment well to the heli. I can see they are displaced from its original position quite a lot.

          Can it be causing not stable and difficulty to helicopter to hover stable in one place?

          Thanks!

          Regards,
          Arto.
          Dynam Hughes 300 fp with stock blades and GWS DD tail upgrade...
          TX: 72.830MHz, mode 2.


          Can hover already, now learning orientation...

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Artosoft
            Another thing that disturb me about Dynam Hughes 300 fp is the electronics (mixer 3in1 and receiver) are only stick together and hold by double tape to the main frame. It is looks like the mixer 3in1 that contain piezo gyro is not alignment well to the heli. I can see they are displaced from its original position quite a lot.

            Can it be causing not stable and difficulty to helicopter to hover stable in one place?

            Thanks!

            Regards,
            Arto.
            The 3-in-1 must be horizontal to the heli. You can safely remove the receiver and the 3-in-1, align the mixer properly and use another double side tape to tape it to the frame again.

            For even better stability, you can do what i have done (need to spend $$$). You can get the Walker gyro from SkyHobbies (i think at around $69 or so) and use this as the gyro instead of the 3-in-1 mixer gyro. No soldering required. Just need to unplug the 3-in-1 rudder control plug from mixer and run it to your new gyro and then plug the connector from gyro to the receiver. The walker gyro is a HH (head hold) type gyro and works very well with the hughes 300!

            Comment


              #7
              bro u prolly need 2 check these as they r the main causes of vibration of fp helis:

              unblanaced flybar:
              - take off main blade
              - disconnect tail motor
              - throttle up and see if heli vibrates
              - it should not vibrate at all

              main blades too tight
              - loosen screws holding main blade. basically it shld be abit loose so it can straigthen itself once throttle up

              main blades not tracking
              - throttle up and look at the flight path of e main blades from the side of your heli. both blades shld be at e same height.

              gyro gain/proportion wrong will cause your heli tail to sway/drift left/right

              most fp helis have the 4+1 / 3+1 doubleside tape to the body. this is normal. if you are afraid, just use cable tie to tie them down.

              cheers

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by pck
                You can get the Walker gyro from SkyHobbies (i think at around $69 or so) and use this as the gyro instead of the 3-in-1 mixer gyro. The walker gyro is a HH (head hold) type gyro and works very well with the hughes 300!
                abit the too much to spend on an fp imho.. the default gyro is enough for most to learn hovering in all orientations. if gyro properly set the fp helis can hold tail quite well. more so if you run dd tail and gws pg-03 gyro. put HH gyro abit waste money...

                Comment


                  #9
                  detach8 your cp2 wif superskids does it feel heavy..?
                  I fly, then I crash, I fix, then I fly, then I crash, I fix, then the wife ask me to leave.....

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by yoshihiro
                    detach8 your cp2 wif superskids does it feel heavy..?
                    nt really.. cp2 has e power to fly.. esp if you go idle up mode.
                    meanwhile my cp2 is down for maintenance so let me fly it abit more to give u feedback

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by pck
                      The 3-in-1 must be horizontal to the heli. You can safely remove the receiver and the 3-in-1, align the mixer properly and use another double side tape to tape it to the frame again.

                      For even better stability, you can do what i have done (need to spend $$$). You can get the Walker gyro from SkyHobbies (i think at around $69 or so) and use this as the gyro instead of the 3-in-1 mixer gyro. No soldering required. Just need to unplug the 3-in-1 rudder control plug from mixer and run it to your new gyro and then plug the connector from gyro to the receiver. The walker gyro is a HH (head hold) type gyro and works very well with the hughes 300!
                      Thanks PCK. Now looks like I need to find a small box to fixed the mixer and receiver in one place. It is always misplaced. More than twice I fixed them, but always run away after 1 battery (not even hover).

                      BTW, I broke the fly-bar . Anyone know what is recommendation length for hughes 300 fly-bar? Thinking to buy carbon rod and cut it myself.

                      Thanks!

                      Regards,
                      Arto.
                      Dynam Hughes 300 fp with stock blades and GWS DD tail upgrade...
                      TX: 72.830MHz, mode 2.


                      Can hover already, now learning orientation...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by detach8
                        bro u prolly need 2 check these as they r the main causes of vibration of fp helis:

                        unblanaced flybar:
                        - take off main blade
                        - disconnect tail motor
                        - throttle up and see if heli vibrates
                        - it should not vibrate at all

                        main blades too tight
                        - loosen screws holding main blade. basically it shld be abit loose so it can straigthen itself once throttle up

                        main blades not tracking
                        - throttle up and look at the flight path of e main blades from the side of your heli. both blades shld be at e same height.

                        gyro gain/proportion wrong will cause your heli tail to sway/drift left/right

                        most fp helis have the 4+1 / 3+1 doubleside tape to the body. this is normal. if you are afraid, just use cable tie to tie them down.

                        cheers

                        Hi detech8,
                        I agreed with you on most of your points but one.

                        "main blades too tight
                        - loosen screws holding main blade. basically it shld be abit loose so it can straigthen itself once throttle up"

                        This applys to most heli but not so true on our FP. I used to believe the blade will be straigthen by itself on FP too but experience has tell me otherwise.
                        The reason is the headspeed on FP is too low and the FP blades are not weighted. There is lead weights in wooden blades in your CP2 for this purpose.

                        If the blades are very loose, the heli rotor will appear to have straigthen the blade during spin up. This looks fine and can hover until you try to cyclic the heli a bit. IT WILL OSCILLATE. The heli will rock and roll, the tail will swing up and down.

                        The right thing so do is to tighten it very tight but still able to straigthen it by hand. Before flight pull straigth the blades. Check that both blades are at the same angle to the flybar. It helps to have a little positive advance in blade angle.

                        If the Blades are tight but not straighten then vibrating will occur.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Artosoft
                          Thanks PCK. Now looks like I need to find a small box to fixed the mixer and receiver in one place. It is always misplaced. More than twice I fixed them, but always run away after 1 battery (not even hover).

                          BTW, I broke the fly-bar . Anyone know what is recommendation length for hughes 300 fly-bar? Thinking to buy carbon rod and cut it myself.

                          Thanks!

                          Regards,
                          Arto.
                          Yes, you can get carbon rods and cut it down to the required lenght for your flybar. Same thing goes for the tail boom as well. I buy these from rotor and they are more cost effective.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I'm not quite sure about huges 300 flybar bt i think all e same

                            my honeybee fp flybar is 17cm, 2mm carbon rod.

                            i would suggest u get 2mm piano wire instead. very very very very durable.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by detach8
                              i would suggest u get 2mm piano wire instead. very very very very durable.
                              hmm, sounds interesting. where to get this piano wire?

                              Comment

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