Possible to make the CP2 fly better?

[Nosein]

Hi, I fly a GWS dragonfly, TREX SE and CP2 and can hold a nose-in hover reasonably well for a few minutes. I am seeking advice to make the CP2 more stable (its still very twitchy).

I had added additional flybar weight - it slighly better. I also reduced Dual Rate to 90% (reduce the cyclics throw). Recently added superskid but seems a bit too heavy with the superskid - very poor climb out and sometimes can't bail out (although with the superskid weight, the CP2 is much more stable). I am going to remove the superskid.

Any master out there with any advice to make the CP2 more stable? Thanks

[w_kby]

Hi nose-in,

I am no master of CP2 and I think it will be hard to find one. However, if you are able to hover nose-in with the honey bee cp2 for few minutes than that's a great achievement already.

Honey Bee is inherently an unstable heli and requires 100% undivided attention to fly it. If you are able to master this heli, all other helis will be a piece of cake. Most who flew HB would admit that it is one of the most challenging heli to start with and certainly a good pilot trainer.

I have tried using Trex blade (cut shorter but still slightly longer then HB stock blades) and it is a bit more stable. But I think the real difficulty is the tail control. Perhaps a good alternative is to upgrade to belt drive for the tail rotor.

hOpe ThiS heLps

Hi, I fly a GWS dragonfly, TREX SE and CP2 and can hold a nose-in hover reasonably well for a few minutes. I am seeking advice to make the CP2 more stable (its still very twitchy).

I had added additional flybar weight - it slighly better. I also reduced Dual Rate to 90% (reduce the cyclics throw). Recently added superskid but seems a bit too heavy with the superskid - very poor climb out and sometimes can't bail out (although with the superskid weight, the CP2 is much more stable). I am going to remove the superskid.

Any master out there with any advice to make the CP2 more stable? Thanks

[Airborne]

my two cents, set expo to -30 (futaba system) on the twitchy channel, increase to -40 or -50 if needed.

[w_kby]

If you are using the Optic 6, the setting is same as Futaba. however, if you are using JR, then you need to set to +30% (iso -30%) and so on to get the same effect.

my two cents, set expo to -30 (futaba system) on the twitchy channel, increase to -40 or -50 if needed.

[Nosein]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the replies. Really appreciate it. I tried the cut-down TREX plastic blade before - indeed very stable but because of its weight, there were many times I was unable to bail out of an unintended fast decent - have changed too many tail boom already. So I am back to the regular blade.

I have the same experience with the tail. It quite tough to do piro properbly because you have to "guessitimate" when to return rudder stick to neutral or else overshoot or undershoot. The tail control is really poor. I used to use the GWS 4530 DD but the IPS50 motor burnt out quite quicky because it get very hot (I am running 2S only). I had changed to GWS 4025 and the tail motor last "forever" but the tail authority is worst. I stay with the GWS4025 because it too expensive to keep burning up IPS50 motor

I checked up the threads on Helidirect belt drive conversion. Looking at the problems reported in the RC Group Forum, it looks like it work for some people and present a lot of problems to most people. In addition, seems like replacement parts is difficult to buy separately. Looks like it not "mature" yet. There was a thread that says that HeliDirect came out with the HDX300 heli because the Belt Drive Conversion kit wasn't moving

I am still looking for a 300-sized CP heli (so that I can fly in a smaller space) with a belt drive. Anyone with information, please share

Anyone thinking of cutting down the APLUS 400 Pro to CP2 size, please let me know too.

Well, thanks again for all the replies.

[Ghostfit]

I am still looking for a 300-sized CP heli (so that I can fly in a smaller space) with a belt drive. Anyone with information, please share

You may want to have a look at the Elite 3D Pro from Jet Hobby ! ...but this heli is shaft drive and not belt drive.

My 1 cent worth: ...Make sure your CP2 Head Speed (HS) is at least 2200 rpm at hover. (Dun exceed 2800 rpm with the woodies)

Cheers !

[Nosein]

You may want to have a look at the Elite 3D Pro from Jet Hobby ! ...but this heli is shaft drive and not belt drive.

My 1 cent worth: ...Make sure your CP2 Head Speed (HS) is at least 2200 rpm at hover. (Dun exceed 2800 rpm with the woodies)

Cheers !

Hi Ghostfit, thanks for the info. I look at the Elite 3D Pro but did not like it too much - a Hornet X3D already on order

I am running 2S1P with a 11T pinion and Himax 2025-4200 BL and headspeed around 2100 to 2200. It flies alright but I was still hoping to make it more stable....

[Ghostfit]

Hi Ghostfit, thanks for the info. I look at the Elite 3D Pro but did not like it too much - a Hornet X3D already on order

I am running 2S1P with a 11T pinion and Himax 2025-4200 BL and headspeed around 2100 to 2200. It flies alright but I was still hoping to make it more stable....

Your're welcome ! ...The Hornet's a great heli !

I'm wondering what you meant by "More stable" .....as in 3D stable or Hovering stable or Cyclics stable ?