Serious help needed - Honey Bee dead

[w_kby]

Hi all, Did to major mistake today and my Honey Bee CP2 's receiver and transmittor shorted. The receiver power supply was connected reverse and something burn....not sure can repair? Subsequently I connected my Tx to my computer to test the simulator....something burn too....At the point of giving up...Please advise if any one know of someone who can repair these parts (component level I think)

Thanks//

[UH-1H]

you got PM

[w_kby]

Honey Bee CP 2 DEAD

Anyone,..please advise. Since my Tx is dead and my 4-in-1 receiver also shorted (battery connected reverse) I am thinking of upgrading the electronics. If I get a new Tx (say Futaba) with seperate gyro, ESC and receiver to fix on to my Honey Bee, will it work. My idea is to still use my HB for practice before upgrading a TRex (in which case, I will be able to use the new Futaba Tx, Rx, Gyro and ESC on the Trex). If this can be done, please advise what Tx, Rx, Gyro and ESC to buy (what do I need to consider before buying so that the HB and Trex can use)

Please....... will some expert out there kindly help .....greatly appreciate.

w_kby

[UH-1H]

Dude, if u want to run on seperates, might as well get a T-REX straight away. I mean u gonna most probably get a GY-240 for a gyro..and for a transmitter it has to be a 9CHN from Futaba not the T-6EH or etc whatever they call it now..
If u wanna fly with normal 6CHN a HITEC OPTIC 6 will do just fine. Check ur PM, we can meet up i ll show you my heli.

[Super-Hornet]

For your case, it is like practically all avionics damage. If u want to go separate, u have to get:
1x RX (lets say Hitec 5 Ch RX... $37?)
1x GY240
2x ESC
1x TX.

If u are serious in R/C in Heli. Mind as well get the lower budget TRex instead.
TX wise, well either Optic 6 or Futaba 9CHP with on TX type.

SH

[UH-1H]

For your case, it is like practically all avionics damage. If u want to go separate, u have to get:
1x RX (lets say Hitec 5 Ch RX... $37?)
1x GY240
2x ESC
1x TX.

If u are serious in R/C in Heli. Mind as well get the lower budget TRex instead.
TX wise, well either Optic 6 or Futaba 9CHP with on TX type.

SH

Well said SH....i think he should get an Electron 6 instead of the Feather 5 as a RX. His ESC would be one of those LI series from GWS...i think 100 and a 300 series.

[w_kby]

Well said SH....i think he should get an Electron 6 instead of the Feather 5 as a RX. His ESC would be one of those LI series from GWS...i think 100 and a 300 series.

Thanks SH and UH-1H. Could you also advise as I am not familar with Trex. If I buy the entry level model (450X), can it be upgraded slowly to the say 450 XL, SE or HDE version. Not sure if I have asked in the correct terms. Kinda like the blue allumimun levels on the SE version...thanks

[Super-Hornet]

All the TRex 450X/XL/CDE/HDE/SE/SE-v2 are all upgradable. That mean if u get X series (Which is a mixture design of XL and v2), if one day u decided to go longer boom with longer blades, then u just get Boom + Belt + Blades for XL.

If one day u decided to lets say using XL flybar cage or maybe Blue/Grey Metal parts, then u just it and replace it that parts only.

Do take note that those metal part help make your heli even more better performance BUT it is not a must. U still can fly it well using the stock parts.

If your main aim is to have pretty bluelish/greydish metal parts, then mind as well go for SE or SE-v2 instead. The reason is that it is more expensive to get parts to build up as complete set then to get the SE series. Do this is only u got the money to spend.

If budget tight and u want to go for TRex, then get the lower budget (which is T-Rex 450X (CDE)) or T-Rex 450XL HDE instead. Later u got the money to spend, then slowly buy the necessary (in terms of bling) metal parts.

SH

[skareb1986]

Anyone,..please advise. Since my Tx is dead and my 4-in-1 receiver also shorted (battery connected reverse) I am thinking of upgrading the electronics. If I get a new Tx (say Futaba) with seperate gyro, ESC and receiver to fix on to my Honey Bee, will it work. My idea is to still use my HB for practice before upgrading a TRex (in which case, I will be able to use the new Futaba Tx, Rx, Gyro and ESC on the Trex). If this can be done, please advise what Tx, Rx, Gyro and ESC to buy (what do I need to consider before buying so that the HB and Trex can use)

Please....... will some expert out there kindly help .....greatly appreciate.

w_kby

hey bro, my 4in1 blew 1 week ago too, same situation as yours, i tried going seperate on my HB, this is what i bought... abit overkill for some...

1. E-sky gyro
2. Optic 6
3. Quark 33A ESC
4. Max Motor 400DH (3800KV)
5. E-sky ESC
6. 1050Mah 2s Li-Po's x 2
7. Zip tie's and Dean Connectors

Total: About 700+

currently havent flown the bird yet as i have problem's setting up the gyro on the TX, before i bought those item's i have already thought of the plan B lets say if this setup fail's, i'll transfer item 1,2,3,4 to a new t-rex kit, and maybe merge the 2 lipo's as one, so i wont waste too much $$.

Jonathan

[skareb1986]

This is the modded HB, kinda heavy with all the seperate stuff though

[w_kby]

All the TRex 450X/XL/CDE/HDE/SE/SE-v2 are all upgradable. That mean if u get X series (Which is a mixture design of XL and v2), if one day u decided to go longer boom with longer blades, then u just get Boom + Belt + Blades for XL.

If one day u decided to lets say using XL flybar cage or maybe Blue/Grey Metal parts, then u just it and replace it that parts only.

Do take note that those metal part help make your heli even more better performance BUT it is not a must. U still can fly it well using the stock parts.

If your main aim is to have pretty bluelish/greydish metal parts, then mind as well go for SE or SE-v2 instead. The reason is that it is more expensive to get parts to build up as complete set then to get the SE series. Do this is only u got the money to spend.

If budget tight and u want to go for TRex, then get the lower budget (which is T-Rex 450X (CDE)) or T-Rex 450XL HDE instead. Later u got the money to spend, then slowly buy the necessary (in terms of bling) metal parts.

SH

Hi SH, Thanks for your input...greatly appreciate your detailed advise. Could you also advise if the T-Rex is easier to fly then the Honey Bee CP2, I had a hard time learning to hoover and never did succeeded. Also, is the Trex suitable for beginners like me. Are there other choices to recommend then the Trex, seems Trex is very popular and I wonder why.

Thanks w_kby

[w_kby]

hey bro, my 4in1 blew 1 week ago too, same situation as yours, i tried going seperate on my HB, this is what i bought... abit overkill for some...

1. E-sky gyro
2. Optic 6
3. Quark 33A ESC
4. Max Motor 400DH (3800KV)
5. E-sky ESC
6. 1050Mah 2s Li-Po's x 2
7. Zip tie's and Dean Connectors

Total: About 700+

currently havent flown the bird yet as i have problem's setting up the gyro on the TX, before i bought those item's i have already thought of the plan B lets say if this setup fail's, i'll transfer item 1,2,3,4 to a new t-rex kit, and maybe merge the 2 lipo's as one, so i wont waste too much $$.

Jonathan

Hi Brother Johnathan, Thanks for sharing, I spend more time repairing and fixing then flying, guess it is part of the learning process. From your photo, the bird looks heavy and I hope with your that all work out well. Please keep me update on your progress as I am just trailing behind you for advise.

Also, I have 2 lipo batteries 1000mah and 1300mah, if I migrate to Trex, can these batteries be used with the new Receiver? My batteries are almost new and very sayang to just KIV it.....w_kby

[skareb1986]

again i face the same problem as u....

i have 3 brand new 2s lipo 1050mah pack's... if i do get the t-rex i doubt it can be reused... unless i merge 2 packs as 1 ... which i'am currently looking into

[Super-Hornet]

If we assume both HB and TRex are perfectly configured/setup, TRex will be definitely better and easier to fly.

That is because for HB or any fixed pitch (FP) heli, your collective (lifting) is controlled by the speed of the rotor head. Due to for HB, its cyclics (control) is controlled purely by paddles (Hiller design). Since paddles is actually like a wing of airplane or variable pitch like in Collevtive Pitch Heli, slow spinning rotor head will also affect the cyclic sensitivity. That is why u notice that for FP, the cyclics is very sluggish during startup and cyclics become sensitve when u spin it faster. That is why u notice u have difficulty of stable the FP during start up or during taking off. Then the cyclic/control become more controllable during higher RPM BUT higher RPM also meaning u see your heli already taking off way too high for your comfort.

For TRex or Collective Pitch heli, the collective is controlled by the amount of pitch it apply. In CP heli, normally we try to achieve the RPM to be constant throughout the whole flight. For paddles type CP heli, your cyclics are more stable and consistant. During spin up and about to take off, CP heli already spinning at some working RPM. With that, your cyclics already has full control.

Addition to TRex weight is heavier, the heli are much more stable that lighter HB.

The only problem of CP heli for beginner is that, most of beginner do not try to understand or have some helicopter aerodynamics knowledge to set up the heli correctly and thus even a stable heli will be unstable due to poorly calibrated/adjust/setup. Another problem of CP heli in beginner hand is that it it has more parts than FP. Therefore, when crash (Which is very common for beginner), the heli suffers more damage. If that damage is not fix, the heli become unstable again and thus making learning to fly more difficult.

SH

[Super-Hornet]

BTW, for flying TRex, it is recommended to get at least 1800mAH, 3Cells in series instead. 1000mAH is way too low for TRex. U will kill the battery in no time and thus u end up buying new battery again.

SH