Linkrods for my heli

[awesome]

hi all..i need to replace some link rods for my heli, trex..does ntc sell the tools to make z-bend and threads. i read they sell the rods..

if so, how much do they cost? need to see if its worth buying the tools or not..thanks!!

[Super-Hornet]

TRex using Z Bend? Sounds like u are going back to V2 design. Why go for lousy Z Bend?
Go and get TRex linkages where u can use ball linkages on both end.

SH

[awesome]

i'm using cde version. the z-bends are for the ch2 and 6 servos. the ball links will hit the canopy..

[Kam]

Actaully if u dun want to invert the servos, u can put shims to move the servos inner the frame. that will clear the canopy. Else, there's always the new align canopy coming along!

[Super-Hornet]

I not sure about CDE (Which I personally do not like the design), where did u put the "balls"?
U put balls facing outward or inward? I believe if u put the balls inward (Facing servos), I believe it should not have canopy hitting problem (Again, I not sure because I do not have CDE)

SH

[awesome]

thanks guys.

kam, quite difficult to visualise the shims. i think there is not much room you can move the servos. lemme see if reversing the servos will help..

sh, i followed the manual previously. one in and one out but the linkrods wont be in line with the frame. one of which needs to be installed on the outside cos there wont have room between the servo and the frame. also, placing the links outside will hit canopy..

so ended up buying the v2 linkrods...but servo still brushing the canopy..

[Kam]

thanks guys.

kam, quite difficult to visualise the shims. i think there is not much room you can move the servos. lemme see if reversing the servos will help..

I inversed mine and was flying without any problems, but there will be purists who insist that the linearity of the servo throws are affected... "loops slightly egged shaped, no good"

If u dun want to invert the servos, u can mount the servos from the other side of the frame (might need to trim off the centre tab of your HS56s). Then add spacers/shims between the servo & frame to bring the servo in closer to the frame.

Install link rods (or balls) on the inside of the servo horn. I'm sure can clear. If u want to mount the linkage rods to run parrellel to the frame (as per instrucitons), i think that will be impossible cos that is the design flaw of the canopy.

One more suggestion, U might want to put a teaspoon behind the canopy where its hitting, then use hairdryer to soften it to the spoon's shape... but I found this solution from another forum, need good art & craft skills else mess up the canopy. Have not tried myslef.

[lmf]

thanks guys.

kam, quite difficult to visualise the shims. i think there is not much room you can move the servos. lemme see if reversing the servos will help..

sh, i followed the manual previously. one in and one out but the linkrods wont be in line with the frame. one of which needs to be installed on the outside cos there wont have room between the servo and the frame. also, placing the links outside will hit canopy..

so ended up buying the v2 linkrods...but servo still brushing the canopy..

Hi awesome, earlier I had my servo horn/balls/screws brushing against the canopy too and had no choice but to use a shorter the servo horn. So far it works fine for me. What is the servo horn length you're currently using?

[awesome]

hi Imf..not sure the length but its now connected closest to the centre..i supposed you are using the 'crossed' servo horns?

went ntc during lunch..the z-bend tool itself costs $32

V2 linkrods from jh cost i think about $5.40..

[Super-Hornet]

Hi awesome

I really think that if u go for Z bend, it will be like very lousy leh. It is like putting a lousy tire onto a ferrari.

Try using a cross servo arm instead. show us some picture and see whether we can improvise on it.

Using Z bend will sure have some freeplay on it. That will make the control not precision.

If u still insist of wanting to use Z bend (Which I still think try not to), u can always use plyer to shape the linkages. $32 is waste of money.

SH

[awesome]

thanks for your advise, SH. Yes I know that using z-bends will create elongation of the holes on the servo arm and causes slop but what to do?...i think its better than having the servo arms restricted by the canopy..servo moves canopy also moves

i tried using plier but the z-bend made from such is .. ..cmi lah..

anyway here's some pics to share..you can see that with z-bend, the links are parallel to the frame, but not when you use the ball joints..

p/s..some pics cannot be uploaded due to file size..

[Super-Hornet]

Hi awesome

Just saw your latest post this morning...
Now is it possible for you to mount the all the ball linkages on the servo arms in this fashion (See photo). That is, it is facing the servo instead. If the ball hit the frame or servo, try different servo arm but still facing the servo.

[awesome]

thanks for the pic, sh

for cde, each ch2 and 6 servo is connected to 2 linkrods (so if one snaps, you still have some control on your heli???!!) ..the manual says one facing in and the other out. rightfully, i believe both should be facing inwards to avoid the canopy while making the linkrods inline with the frame (parallel) but it's not possible due to space constraints.

i think i'll get a new set of linkrods and switch to cross type, cos I was told also with the cross servo arms, you can get a near perfect vertical or horizontal alignment to the servo, without having to do subtrims..

[Super-Hornet]

Not really true on the perfect trimming thing. All servo horns are molded and u will notice different servo horn (even on the same type) will give u a different trim value.

Sometime u not necessary have to follow the user manual because the user manual cannot cater for all types of servos. Some maybe using Hitec while others maybe using JR or GWS.

If u are using HS-56/65 servo, try changing all servo horns to cross "+" type. I know I don't like the CDE design because it is not a true CCPM but I don't think it is that worse. (Well, I do not have CDE to really understand your problem..sorry)

SH

[awesome]

no worries sh..you've been a great help to most of us here

will let you have a look and test it out, if there's a chance..its really not that bad lah..

yes i would agree that the manual is just a guide..i think the length of all my linkrods are way out of the recommended values liao..