T E A M
i got the stainless steel flybar from rotor after changing out the bent one. i got that because i hated the rust from the low carbon steel of the normal black flybar.
few things why i would not recommend this
1. does not have grooves for control arm set screws to bite into so if you don't tighten down properly, the arms will slip easily. then again, if you DO tighten down properly, the aluminium blocks in the control arms tend to strip. so both ways
2. the material is much softer than the normal flybar and esp for ppl like me who take public transport, it is very very easy to bend the flybar in transport. even if you stuff it with other stuff in the carboot, i think the same would happen
3. same as no. 2 but during flight with maximum control input, the fly bar tends to deform IN-FLIGHT.
results, ok, not disastrous but its very irritating when you fly nicenice then suddenly your paddles start going out of track. you can see this when the blades look like they've got a good headspeed, but the paddles and fly bar are wobbling up and down even though no control command is input. they will look as if the paddles are of a much lower headspeed than the blades, which is of course not possible.
ok...so here are some remedies i have come up with, although i don't have spare cash to do them right now...
1. use back the black flybar which is much stiffer.
2. cut carbon tubing of appropriate length to slide over the stainless steel flybar to prevent bending in-flight and enroute to the field. you could also use this over the black flybar if you're paranoid about the unsightly rust.
3. if still using the stainless steel flybar, then i think the full flybar control arms metal cage upgrade would be a good addition. with this you wouldn't get the flexing of the arms due to the lack of grooves for the set screws to sit in. the two screws holding together should be sufficient.
few things why i would not recommend this
1. does not have grooves for control arm set screws to bite into so if you don't tighten down properly, the arms will slip easily. then again, if you DO tighten down properly, the aluminium blocks in the control arms tend to strip. so both ways
2. the material is much softer than the normal flybar and esp for ppl like me who take public transport, it is very very easy to bend the flybar in transport. even if you stuff it with other stuff in the carboot, i think the same would happen
3. same as no. 2 but during flight with maximum control input, the fly bar tends to deform IN-FLIGHT.
results, ok, not disastrous but its very irritating when you fly nicenice then suddenly your paddles start going out of track. you can see this when the blades look like they've got a good headspeed, but the paddles and fly bar are wobbling up and down even though no control command is input. they will look as if the paddles are of a much lower headspeed than the blades, which is of course not possible.
ok...so here are some remedies i have come up with, although i don't have spare cash to do them right now...
1. use back the black flybar which is much stiffer.
2. cut carbon tubing of appropriate length to slide over the stainless steel flybar to prevent bending in-flight and enroute to the field. you could also use this over the black flybar if you're paranoid about the unsightly rust.
3. if still using the stainless steel flybar, then i think the full flybar control arms metal cage upgrade would be a good addition. with this you wouldn't get the flexing of the arms due to the lack of grooves for the set screws to sit in. the two screws holding together should be sufficient.
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