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    #61
    Originally posted by stuka
    Found a piece of copper tube, so decided to dump the heatsink and make a water cooling coil for the motor.
    Where's your source for the copper tube? Think I'll need to stock some.

    BTW, I find it works best if you spread some pc heat sink compound on the insides of your cooling coil. A bit messy perhaps but it's great for efficient heat transfer.
    For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

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      #62
      Originally posted by Mad Armour
      The barrel thingy is a Schottky diode. Don't really think you need to use this for your stock type motor.

      It's function is to prevent reverse current back to the ESC. If you plan to use 11T motor in futute, you'll need this! Only for forward/brake ESC.
      Can show me how to connect this thingy? I would want to permanently solder it to the esc, in case I forget to use it next time.

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        #63
        Originally posted by Mad Armour
        Where's your source for the copper tube? Think I'll need to stock some.

        BTW, I find it works best if you spread some pc heat sink compound on the insides of your cooling coil. A bit messy perhaps but it's great for efficient heat transfer.
        Got it from artfriend...yup, I got some pc heat sink compound too, stole the idea from you....

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          #64
          Originally posted by stuka
          Can show me how to connect this thingy? I would want to permanently solder it to the esc, in case I forget to use it next time.
          Mad Armour thanks, have found some examples to connect the diode.


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            #65
            Originally posted by stuka
            Got it from artfriend...yup, I got some pc heat sink compound too, stole the idea from you....
            The one I got from artfriend is thin walled and 'fold' easily. Any trick to prevent that? Read somewhere that stuffing the tube with fine salt prior to bending helps to prevent folding. Tried it and yup, it curves nicely without folding. However, I can't get the darn salt out later. Even soaking the coil for a few days don't help. Now the coil is history...
            For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

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              #66
              Originally posted by stuka
              Mad Armour thanks, have found some examples to connect the diode.
              Sorry for the late reply. Just make sure the silver band is towards the +ve side of the motor terminal.
              For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

              Comment


                #67
                Originally posted by Mad Armour
                The one I got from artfriend is thin walled and 'fold' easily. Any trick to prevent that? Read somewhere that stuffing the tube with fine salt prior to bending helps to prevent folding. Tried it and yup, it curves nicely without folding. However, I can't get the darn salt out later. Even soaking the coil for a few days don't help. Now the coil is history...
                The copper tube i used is the thin walled type that "fold" easily, use a torch or the cooking stove to preheat and let it cool down naturally. After that you will be able to hand bend it around the motor without the folding problem.

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by Mad Armour
                  Sorry for the late reply. Just make sure the silver band is towards the +ve side of the motor terminal.
                  Have you tried connecting the diode across the ESC's motor terminals instead? I understand that in some ESC the diode is built-in on the circuit board, hinking of doing this so that diode can follow the esc wherever it goes...

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                    #69
                    Originally posted by stuka
                    The copper tube i used is the thin walled type that "fold" easily, use a torch or the cooking stove to preheat and let it cool down naturally. After that you will be able to hand bend it around the motor without the folding problem.
                    OK, this is called 'annealing' but I thought it only works for brass tubes. Thanks for the tip!
                    For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by stuka
                      Have you tried connecting the diode across the ESC's motor terminals instead? I understand that in some ESC the diode is built-in on the circuit board, hinking of doing this so that diode can follow the esc wherever it goes...
                      Hmmmm.....someone did ask a similar question in another thread. Personally I have no answer to that. I don't see why you can't do it this way but lemme tell you I'm no EE guy first!
                      For some people it's important to show what they have, for others it's sufficient to know that they have it.

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                        #71
                        Wei Young when r you putting the summerwaltz in water?

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                          #72
                          well done stuka. very interesting to follow your threads.
                          Very informative and not boring at all. Keep up the good work!


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                            #73
                            Side shelf is made of spruce wood, a bit hard to bend and position. I use slow setting CA here to give myself more time to work.


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                              #74
                              Side of deck is precut plywood, oversized by about 1 cm, need to trim later.


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                                #75
                                I replaced the plywood middle deck with 1/8 balsa to reduce some weight and give it a 2-tone look...


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