My first attempt in converting a plastic kit to RC.
I'm using an old Revell 1/542 scale USS Saratoga CV60 carrier given to me by my brother in law. Model is 22 inches long 3 inches wide.
Drilled out the stern to accept the stuffing tube. Brass tube 3mm OD with a 2.5mm ID.
Some flanged brass bushings from a Tamiya Mini 4WD racer.
It has a 2mm ID which readily accepts the steel drive shaft (a length of ribbing from a discarded umbrella)
Turns out that the outside diameter of the bushing is the same as those of the stuffing tube. Thought of annealing the end of the stuffing tube and flaring it out using a nail so it can accept the bushing.
Looking again in scrap box found some brass eyelets which fit inside the ends of the stuffing tube.
Unfortunately, the eyelet's internal diameter is a bit bigger than the drive shaft. This could pose as a potential entry point for water.
Also the walls of the eyelet are rather thin. Not sure how long these will last.
About the drive motor, so as to keep the weight down instead of using the speed 280 motor and heavy 7.2V Nimh pack just might use a modified servo to power the prop (no need to go and buy a separate ESC) and just use a 4 AA pack.
Top cover of servo case and gear train removed.
Used 2 nuts and screws to hold casing together.
Motor shaft to the right. Pot to the left.
Will convert servo according to these conversion guides
I'm using an old Revell 1/542 scale USS Saratoga CV60 carrier given to me by my brother in law. Model is 22 inches long 3 inches wide.
Drilled out the stern to accept the stuffing tube. Brass tube 3mm OD with a 2.5mm ID.
Some flanged brass bushings from a Tamiya Mini 4WD racer.
It has a 2mm ID which readily accepts the steel drive shaft (a length of ribbing from a discarded umbrella)
Turns out that the outside diameter of the bushing is the same as those of the stuffing tube. Thought of annealing the end of the stuffing tube and flaring it out using a nail so it can accept the bushing.
Looking again in scrap box found some brass eyelets which fit inside the ends of the stuffing tube.
Unfortunately, the eyelet's internal diameter is a bit bigger than the drive shaft. This could pose as a potential entry point for water.
Also the walls of the eyelet are rather thin. Not sure how long these will last.
About the drive motor, so as to keep the weight down instead of using the speed 280 motor and heavy 7.2V Nimh pack just might use a modified servo to power the prop (no need to go and buy a separate ESC) and just use a 4 AA pack.
Top cover of servo case and gear train removed.
Used 2 nuts and screws to hold casing together.
Motor shaft to the right. Pot to the left.
Will convert servo according to these conversion guides
Comment