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    Fms mini t28

    Hi guys. I'm into this hobby for quite sometime. Being flying with glider. But now I'm thinking to move to warbird. Was researching on fms mini t28 for quite sometime.

    Just need some comment from u guys who has this plane or know knowledge about this plane.

    Just wan to know wad is the different between flying glider and a warbird. I know that warbird is low wing. But how is this difficult as compared to glider?

    Im also being playing Phoenix simulator but I couldn't find any different. Just that the plane is smaller.

    Really appreciate ur help here. Thanks in advance.

    #2
    Comments from myself + other flyers who own the t28 mini = wonderful little plane, stable and very scale in looks.

    Flies like a low wing trainer with a relatively slow stall speed... stalls are also very well controlled with the plane tending to nose over vs the FMS zero's/spitfire's characteristic wing tip stall.

    Now the bad part:
    To me, it's a tad small and twitchy especially when you compare this to a glider. Had a Gentle Lady (glider) which i've flown for the past 15 yrs, and the t28 is farrrr from being a glider.

    You might want to consider the 1.4m versions first, as those tend to be a bit more stable vs the 750mm version.

    Hope this helps.

    Comment


      #3
      I have this 800mm T-28 Trojan for some time, and it is one of the more "relaxed" fliers in my "fleet".

      Compared to the later models from FMS, the Trojan has a roomier, more solid structure... just check out the foam thickness for the fuselage walls and you will know.

      If you can fly a glider with full 4-channel controls and confident of all your orientations already, you're probably ready for a low wing trainer like the Trojan.

      Of course, as another poster here has said, the small models can still zip around comparatively faster than the larger models, so... but the advantage is that you can use cheaper, smaller 2s and 3s lipos to fly, and easier to transport the model around in one piece. Hand-launches also possible.

      The 1.4m models mostly require flat surface for takeoff and landing. Added complication of retractable gears (you don't need this extra complexity at the learning stage), larger 4s lipos, assembly and removal of the wing (too large for easy transportation and storage at home), etc. - so these are your considerations that you need to think about.
      ------------------------------
      Airworthy: FMS Mini Trojan, Cloudsfly, BF-109 Funfighter, HK Mini Stick, Flasher 450 Pro, Mini Titan v2, E-Flite Blade MCPx.
      NIB: Multiplex FunCub, HK T-45.

      Comment


        #4
        Hi trev2401, did u get the PNP version or get the kit version and get the electronics separately? Because ei dun really trust the stock electronic. I was thinking of getting the kit version but I dun know how to match the motor and esc. Any advise?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by P0633316 View Post
          Hi trev2401, did u get the PNP version or get the kit version and get the electronics separately? Because ei dun really trust the stock electronic. I was thinking of getting the kit version but I dun know how to match the motor and esc. Any advise?
          For your first FMS plane, better to get the PNP version.
          Together with 3S 1000 or 1300, this plane flies excellent on stock setup.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by raidor88 View Post
            For your first FMS plane, better to get the PNP version.
            Together with 3S 1000 or 1300, this plane flies excellent on stock setup.
            The stock setup for FMS mini warbirds come with 20A esc, the recommended lipo batt is 2S, if you use 3S setup, although you will get better power, you run the risk of burning up your esc, I flew the FMS mini corsair with 1050mAh 2S lipo and that is already quite fast ,...I'm just saying...

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Caine View Post
              The stock setup for FMS mini warbirds come with 20A esc, the recommended lipo batt is 2S, if you use 3S setup, although you will get better power, you run the risk of burning up your esc, I flew the FMS mini corsair with 1050mAh 2S lipo and that is already quite fast ,...I'm just saying...
              I have quite a number of FMS mini warbirds, namely T-28, corsair, spitfire, P-47, AT-6 Texan, Zero..all using the stock 20A ESC + 3S with no problem.
              Tests with my wattmeter also shown the motor is drawing within the 20 ampere range.
              One advantage of using 3S is the plane will hit the correct CG. 2S is a bit light which tend to result in many of the FMS mini being tail heavy.

              Comment


                #8
                The FMS 800mm Trojan is flyable on 2s and 3s. I've never full-throttled on 3s for the entire duration of the lipo... I think that will shorten the ESC lifetime for sure.

                But bursts of up to 10s full-throttle on 3s seems okay. The ESC and lipo feels a bit toasty after use, but still working with no problems. Think of it as a kind of "afterburner"

                By the way, even on real commercial aircraft, airliners, it is not possible to run the engines at full-rated takeoff power for longer than 5 minutes or so...
                ------------------------------
                Airworthy: FMS Mini Trojan, Cloudsfly, BF-109 Funfighter, HK Mini Stick, Flasher 450 Pro, Mini Titan v2, E-Flite Blade MCPx.
                NIB: Multiplex FunCub, HK T-45.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks guys for the advice. I was considering the kit is because I had a sky surfer using the stock 20a esc running on 3s 2200mad lipo. Nv had it on full throttle before. The most 3/4 throttle. But the esc burnout. Smoke coming out from the esc. Cause me not to trust stock electronic anymore. Lol.

                  But since most of u here says for fms mini the stock setup is good enough then I think I will just get PNP. Save the trouble of mounting the electronics into the plane. Lol

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by P0633316 View Post
                    Thanks guys for the advice. I was considering the kit is because I had a sky surfer using the stock 20a esc running on 3s 2200mad lipo. Nv had it on full throttle before. The most 3/4 throttle. But the esc burnout. Smoke coming out from the esc. Cause me not to trust stock electronic anymore. Lol.

                    But since most of u here says for fms mini the stock setup is good enough then I think I will just get PNP. Save the trouble of mounting the electronics into the plane. Lol
                    Bro, I think your esc burned out might not be due to it been stock, it might due to the battery you are using, even though using larger capacity battery (2200mAh vs 1350 mAh) means longer flying time, larger capacity battery also allows more current to be drawn, so to some, larger battery often gives the false impression of more power, at the same time, at 3/4 throttle, you might already exceed the safety threshold where your esc can take it and whenever you have let say a 20A esc, the max current you would normally keep to is maybe about 17A maybe 18A..max 19A just to be on the safe side...thats just my 2 cents worth in this matter

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The T28 Mini 800mm is a best plane I've flown and still flying it. I've both another 2 more T28s - one for a spare (in case the store runs out) and another as a gift.

                      It's easy to hand launch and transport. The T28 1.4m is a totally different beast, once you handle the 1.4m - you will be very impressed by its scale looks and sound. You need a run way to take off and land though.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Caine View Post
                        Bro, I think your esc burned out might not be due to it been stock, it might due to the battery you are using, even though using larger capacity battery (2200mAh vs 1350 mAh) means longer flying time, larger capacity battery also allows more current to be drawn, so to some, larger battery often gives the false impression of more power, at the same time, at 3/4 throttle, you might already exceed the safety threshold where your esc can take it and whenever you have let say a 20A esc, the max current you would normally keep to is maybe about 17A maybe 18A..max 19A just to be on the safe side...thats just my 2 cents worth in this matter
                        Keeping the throttle 3/4 or 1/2 or whichever partial is harder on your esc than outright full throttle. So having the idea that using throttle management to keep a esc safe from burning when its operating max throttle current is already exceeding the esc rating is not wise.

                        2 cents worth from a man who pushes 280ish amp through a 180amp CC on a regular basis.
                        Stop looking for a gyro in my plane, they are all in the head.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by P0633316 View Post
                          Hi trev2401, did u get the PNP version or get the kit version and get the electronics separately? Because ei dun really trust the stock electronic. I was thinking of getting the kit version but I dun know how to match the motor and esc. Any advise?
                          i got the pnp version. Yes, the electronics arn't the best in the world, but hey... i wanted something to fly without the fuss... i'll consider changing the ESC and servos probably after 20-30 battery cycles.

                          On another note, i have the FMS mini-j3 too, and it saw it's 30th flight last week with stock setup.. still working well.

                          Comment

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