Building upsized Deceiver Pylon Racer - Charlatan

[Sunstorm]

Been thinking about doing up a bigger pylon racer than the Deceiver / Swindler series by Joe Yap.

In theory, it is upsized to 1m wingspan.

started work today.

Generated templates from Profili.



Powered up the ol' cutting bow and wire



Cut myself out 4 (3 in picture) wing shapes



Later on, cut out airfoils



Probably still looking through the designs, I got them on Google Sketchup.

[edmond22]

Subscribed!

[VinCopter]

on

[Sunstorm]

Let's keep the momentum up; just 1 piece of work a day....

tonight.

din do much.



Found an ol' tube of GWS glue, so I used it to glue the foam wings and pieces together. Plastic clear sheet (the stuff you wrap books with) is stuck on the surfaces of the foam beds



start planning for internal spar arrangements. Of course, I'm sorta making the plan up as I go along and I use my old carbon pieces that I used before.



dug a channel with the Xacto knife for the square carbon spar to sit in

fill the channel with Elmers Pro bond, spray the area with water using an atomizer and smoosh the carbon rod in



Yup, it's in. The Elmers Pro bond will foam up and fill up the gaps. And of course, to protect the foam beds, that's why the plastic is used.

And of course, I stuck a piece of clear tape on top. later on I'll remove it.

[P4cm4n2000]

Bro Sunstorm, your new speed wing looked swee!

[Sunstorm]

Been busy with the scourge of the Singaporean male citizen which is healthy enough but not fit enough - RT.

Anyway;

prepared the foam beds and the balsa skins for the wing.



This is where I need help from seniors like Joe.



Top half of the skins overlap the bottom. Is this supposed to be done?

Doesn't feel very....stiff. Seems like it'll flutter.

Any opinions are welcome.

[joe yap]

Yes, the top skin will go beyond the TE of the bottom skin. After the skins have been bonded onto the foam core, fill the area behind the TE of the lower skin with either balsa or microballoons/epoxy mix, before sanding to the final shape.

You can always lay some fibreglass cloths when you apply the epoxy under the skins before bonding. To further stiffened up the wings, you can use either basswood or spruce strips for the wing lead edge.

[Sunstorm]

Just a little update.

I ruined the bottom wing skin because.....I tried to glass with water based resin and medium fibreglass

the whole thing warped big time

[gEcky]

That's the problem with water-based varnish... suppose to wet out both sides of the surface so the balsa expand evenly.

Curious, if you had done this step for top/bottom skin together in the foam bed, would it have worked?

[Sunstorm]

Dunno if it worked. Welcome back.... ( you're the guy that built that tiny Limit EX)

this is how it happened.

Joe Yap recommends that glassing with medium FG is good

so my wing skin was already in the wing bed.

Though, hey, let's glass the thing and do things one by one instead of stacking them all together like later on

So I wetted the balsa wth resin and put fibreglass on.

Painted on another layer of resin so that it's wet.

Waited 15 mins....man...balsa starting to warp.....

Waited 30 mins, it 'disbonded' from the wing beds and went 'doingggg....' - from concave to convex

Had to make another trip to JH for some moar balsa. darn

[joe yap]

Don't bother to use water based resin or other adhesives that requires ventilation to dry out. After stacking up the foam beds/cores and the skins in place, there won't be much ventilations for these kind of adhesives to cure. If you don't use the foam beds and stack up the balsa skins and cores alone, in order to promote curing such adhesives, you'll probably get warped wings at the end too.

The best method is still to use epoxy that do no need to ventilate in order for the resin to cure. Furthermore, the strength of the bonds will be far more superior than most others. For high-performance models, which are subjected to extremely high loads, skimping on materials is not the way to go.

[Sunstorm]

kk Joe

thank you for the advise. it is valuable

Anyway yups, so guess I'll have to mix up a batch of epoxy

*refers to Swindler thread

[Curare]

Just something to share with you from what I've read somewhere on the net, before you spread that resin onto the bare balsa...since balsa is porous it will soak up a fair bit of resin the end result will be some increase in overall weight. In order to prevent the resin from soaking into the balsa too much, get a cheap can of hair spray and spray the bare balsa on the side the resin is to be applied, when dried you can apply the resin, this will prevent the resin from soaking into the bare wood.

[Ghostfit]

Just something to share with you from what I've read somewhere on the net, before you spread that resin onto the bare balsa...since balsa is porous it will soak up a fair bit of resin the end result will be some increase in overall weight. In order to prevent the resin from soaking into the balsa too much, get a cheap can of hair spray and spray the bare balsa on the side the resin is to be applied, when dried you can apply the resin, this will prevent the resin from soaking into the bare wood.

Don't have hair spray ! ....can I slob on some x-tra hold hair gel instead ?

[Curare]

Don't have hair spray ! ....can I slob on some x-tra hold hair gel instead ?

Tony, I think your hair is a little to grey to be using hair gel...hahaaha