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    #16
    PART 2: Building materials - Timber

    Balsa : Needless to say, this is where everything got started. Commercially, balsa sheets are the primary material for flying model planes. They usually come in 3" wide by 36" long sheets. Commonly used thickness are 1/16, 3/32", 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" sheets. 3/8", 1/2" and the thicker ones are used mainly for bulky parts usually carved to final shapes. Balsa is very prone to warp due to climatic changes. Choose your balsa carefully. If the material is meant for wing spars, LE and TE which alignment is very important, choose the straightest one you can find.

    Balsa blocks are also available for solid components like nose cones and wing tips. However, you don't always need to use them. You can always explore the alternatives like laminating thinner sheets of balsa to get the correct thickness, rather than stocking up piles of balsa of different sizes. Also, balsa blocks often needs to be saw as penknife would be impractical to cut them properly. Making up parts from laminations saves you money and trouble to getting a bench saw.

    Besides sheets and blocks, balsa sticks are also very useful for wing spars, leading and trailing edges, fuselage stringers and longerons. Available cross sectional shapes includes round, square, rectangular, triangular and wing leading and trailing edge profiles.

    Not all balsa sheets and blocks are create equal. They come in different grade and weight and you should use them wisely according to thier properties. We generally grade them as soft, medium and hard. Soft balsa should be used for bulky parts or sheetings which strength is not the main concern. Wing sheetings, nose cone blocks and wingtip fairings should use soft balsa. Medium grade balsa are use generally on most parts of the airframe structural members which creates the shape like fuselage formers, side panels and wing ribs. Hard balsa is use for structural members which carry most of the airframe loads like wing spars and fuselage longerons. Some designs uses hard wood instead of balsa for such purpose.

    Spruce : Spruce are dense hardwood, but soft enough to be shaped with a penknife and a junior hacksaw blade. They come in sticks with rectangular and square cross sections, which are excellent for wing spars. They are also much heavier than balsa, but with thier strength, you can substitude balsa spars for thinner spruce spars during desigingor re-designing. The most important property it has to me is that they are very much less prone to warp by climatic changes. Most of them remains straight and true after arriving to countries with wet climate like ours. For that reason, I always try to use them for wing spars in my designs.

    Plywood : Model aircraft grade plywood is made of birch and is very dense and strong. The co-called 'lite-ply' is actually made of Poplar which is much weaker. Use them wisely. Actually, 'lite-ply' is not as useful as the former, apart form being easiest to cut with the penknife. Because it is weaker, you'd need to use more of them to achieve the required strength, resulting bigger and more parts. Compared to 'lite-ply' which often come in 1/8" thick, a 1/16" birch ply would do the job.

    Although birch ply is harder to cut with a penknife than the 'lite-ply', be smart and don't be so quick to think that you'll need but a bench saw to cut it. You can simply substitude a part that is cut from a thick birch plywood by cutting 2 or more pieces of it out of thinner plywood. It may not save you time, but can save you tonnes of cash of buying a bench saw and stocking up plywood sheets of so many thickness. I only buy plywood up to 1/8" as I seldom need anything thicker than that and they can still be cut with a heavy duty penknife. The most useful size for small time scratchbuilder is 1/16" birch ply.

    Plywood is commonly use to making stress bearing parts like fuselage doublers, fuselage bulkheads, engine firewalls and dihedral wing joining braces.

    Basswood : Basswood is something between spruce and balsa. It is soft enough to be cut easily with a hacksaw, carved with a penknife, and yet strong enough to be used as wing and landing gear mounting blocks. However, they are not considered as one of the primary materials on aeromodelling although many find them very useful for certain dedicated purpose. Art Friends at Bras Basah complex stock up quite a selection of them.

    Hardwood : There are many types of hardwood and they are generalised in aeromodelling uses. Hobby shops which sells aeromodelling prioducts simply call them hardwood and folks will understand that there are to be used for engine, wing and landing gear mount. Many types of wood are classifed within and sometime even basswood are packed and sold in this manner. They usually come in 12" long with square or rectangular cross sections.
    Last edited by joe yap; 06-12-2008, 01:16 PM.

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      #17
      PART 3 : Building materials - Plastics, metals and composites

      Metals : Metals are usually used as hardwares like pushpull control rods, clevises, landing gears etc. Steel piano wires are the used mainly as pushpull rods and landing gear struts. Aluminium and brass tubes are often used as wing joiners.

      Plastics : For scratchbuilding, thermo plastics like PVC, polycarbonate and Acetate sheets are use for moulding parts like canopy, cowlings and wheel pants. There are ways of forming them but I try to minimise using them other than for making canopies. The stench they produce during heating is often enough to put one off.

      Corrugated plastic sheets, often called as 'Coroplast', are often used to produce simple plastic models called the 'SPADs'. They are also being used to make tail parts for EPP foam models.

      Foams : Foams are currently the most common scratchbuiding material currently. They are very light and very easy to cut and shaped. Polystyrene foams come in many forms like styrofoam, blue and pink foam, compact foam and 'Depron'. They are produced by different methods and have some distinctive properties amongst them. EPP ( Expanded Polypropylene ) foams are sometime being used to create 'indestructible' models for rough use. Obtaining them is not as easy as the former though.

      Composites : Carbon fibre and fibreglass are the 2 most commonly use composite material in aeromodelling. Lately, CF sticks are readily available in tubes and solid sticks which can be use for wing spars, fuselage pods, pushpull rods, etc. Fibreglass has many uses too, but the most commonly use in scratchbuilding is reinforcements using fibreglassw cloths with epoxy resins. Wing centre joint especially, is often reinforced by laying a piece or strip of fibreglass cloth over it and painted with slow setting laminating epoxy resin over, until it is entirely soaked. Once the epoxy has cured, the strength of the joint is increased tremendously.

      My personal view on foam and coroplast materials are that, although they can produce a model much quicker than the more conventional materials, they often do not last as long as well. Most plastics starts to breakdown after being subjected to UV rays of the sun, and I have witness my foam models 'rotting' after being flown for a period of time. Also, they require more time and effort to produce relatively good finishing results than a balsa model. The finishing often do not last as long as them as well. My foam models often have a fair share of 'hangar rash' even before thier maiden flights. However, foams are good for temporay or experimental designs which finishing is not an important factor.
      Last edited by joe yap; 06-12-2008, 01:30 PM.

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        #18
        Making of a Glider

        Hey Joe,
        Many thanks for the adv. on the equipment needed to make a glider.

        Really appreciate all your time to type out on the equipment needed.

        Woah... that is sure a hell lot of equipment, will try to gather the said items.

        Gotten some plan such as Guppy, Sohiscated Lady and etc. from the web. The truth is complicated, I almost sank when I look at the drawing. Anyway now slowly digesting up the plan.

        Anyway thanks for the adv.

        Cheers
        Daniel

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          #19
          Take your time, never rush. Haste makes waste.

          For better learning, you can even trial make parts, instead of the entire airframe. Discard any part and make new ones if they do not fit. If you try to fit mismatch parts, you'll find that you'll end up doing more job, trying to undo them all over again. Parts MUST fit well enough not to distort the structure all the time.
          Last edited by joe yap; 09-12-2008, 11:26 AM.

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            #20
            Admin! Sticky This Be!
            [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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              #21
              I also added another tool in Part 1. Please see the revision.

              Daniel,

              Not get startled and overwhelmed. Buy the most important items first and slowly add up to your inventory. I would say you get the building board, penknifes and spare blades, sandpaper with different grades ( around 200 and 300 grades to start off), Steel rulers (12" for start), pins, wood blocks for sanding, CA and 5min epoxy.

              I believe these should be enough to get you started somewhere, less the finishing.

              SIDETRACK :

              I can also hear folks saying that it'll be better for you to start off building a Depron or foam models. I'm not totally against it at this point, but my idea is to get you started off with a more basic and comprehensive approach so that you'll be able to carry forward these skills, techniques and knowledge to foam planes building. Once you master them, your door to the entire world of aeromodelling will be opened.

              With the correct mindset and perserverance, you can achieve what most think that is it impossible or inpractical. But trust me, with enough guidance and self researches, I have 2 close friends who blew me off by showing me thier nicely scratchbuild models, done totally by themselves individually without anyone's assistance.
              Last edited by joe yap; 09-12-2008, 11:25 AM.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by joe yap View Post
                I also added another tool in Part 1. Please see the revision.

                Daniel,

                Not get startled and overwhelmed. Buy the most important items first and slowly add up to your inventory. I would say you get the building board, penknifes and spare blades, sandpaper with different grades ( around 200 and 300 grades to start off), Steel rulers (12" for start), pins, wood blocks for sanding, CA and 5min epoxy.

                I believe these should be enough to get you started somewhere, less the finishing.

                SIDETRACK :

                I can also hear folks saying that it'll be better for you to start off building a Depron or foam models. I'm not totally against it at this point, but my idea is to get you started off with a more basic and comprehensive approach so that you'll be able to carry forward these skills, techniques and knowledge to foam planes building. Once you master them, your door to the entire world of aeromodelling will be opened.

                With the correct mindset and perserverance, you can achieve what most think that is it impossible or inpractical. But trust me, with enough guidance and self researches, I have 2 close friends who blew me off by showing me thier nicely scratchbuild models, done totally by themselves individually without anyone's assistance.
                That is what we call master... He... He... He... Anyway someone introduce me to this hobby in olden days. They gone through courses organise by SYFC.

                Unfortunately half way learning through this chap I gave up. Will let's hope that I stay for long.

                Seem your project like 'Corina' & 'Sophiscated Lady' very impressive. Gone through the web found some plan on it. What I can said 'siong' to get all those parts fabricated.

                What I can said is that you are good. So what is your next project?

                Read that someone have produce a 747 Boeing. Wondering how's the progress.

                What I can said is keep up the good work, and when can I fixed mine. Ha... Ha... Ha...

                Cheers

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by desiderata View Post
                  That is what we call master... He... He... He... Anyway someone introduce me to this hobby in olden days. They gone through courses organise by SYFC.

                  Unfortunately half way learning through this chap I gave up. Will let's hope that I stay for long.

                  Seem your project like 'Corina' & 'Sophiscated Lady' very impressive. Gone through the web found some plan on it. What I can said 'siong' to get all those parts fabricated.

                  What I can said is that you are good. So what is your next project?

                  Read that someone have produce a 747 Boeing. Wondering how's the progress.

                  What I can said is keep up the good work, and when can I fixed mine. Ha... Ha... Ha...

                  Cheers

                  Daniel,
                  I was also caught in a somwhat similar situation. My mother then didn't allow me to join JFC. It was through my classmate that I learnt about the YFC, which was just being renamed then. I picked up only a few basic knowledge and I continue my learning curve mainly by myself, with occasional advises from other friends of mine.

                  I'm currently building my 76" Super Blanik L23. See other thread : http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39317

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by joe yap View Post
                    Daniel,
                    I was also caught in a somwhat similar situation. My mother then didn't allow me to join JFC. It was through my classmate that I learnt about the YFC, which was just being renamed then. I picked up only a few basic knowledge and I continue my learning curve mainly by myself, with occasional advises from other friends of mine.

                    I'm currently building my 76" Super Blanik L23. See other thread : http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39317
                    Hey Joe,
                    What a waste if you attended the course you maybe the next pilot in line.

                    Wah your coming project is huge, where do you store this huge model? At workplace?

                    Look through your gallery found some diving photo, are you a commercial diver? If you are a commerical diver, maybe you like to leave me your contact. May need your help in future!

                    Cheers
                    Daniel

                    Comment


                      #25
                      76" span for a model glider is standard size. My biggest scratchbuilt glider so far is 3metre span. I got a 4metre project waiting for me to start.

                      All my gliders are built with 2-3 peice wings and can be broken down stored in my storeroom.

                      As for diver, I don't recall can diving photos posted in the forum, but I'm a sport diving. Anyway, I haven't been diving since the last 3 years.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by joe yap View Post
                        As for diver, I don't recall can diving photos posted in the forum, but I'm a sport diving. Anyway, I haven't been diving since the last 3 years.
                        ...the only diving I've seen Joe make is when he 'DIVES' his glider !

                        ...He'll shout "DIVING" ...and his glider will zoom pass with an awfully nice swoooosssh... sound !

                        ...sorry, just got to add my 1 cents
                        Seriously running out of ...Storage space !

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                          #27
                          Daniel,

                          Are you still there?

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Making of a Glider

                            Originally posted by joe yap View Post
                            Daniel,

                            Are you still there?
                            Yup, me still here.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Oh, okay. I thought you got intimidated.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Making of a Glider

                                Originally posted by joe yap View Post
                                Oh, okay. I thought you got intimidated.


                                Sort off, kind of busy this week. Year End liao.

                                Got to buck on Sales, otherwise got to eat west wind next year.

                                Expected to be very slow. So this year must while permit.

                                He... He... He...

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