T E A M
Planes that doesn't need Epoxy
So far i have only seen very little planes that no need epoxy. Any good low winged plane that doesn't need epoxy to recommend? Epoxy really giving me headaches as i am not a good gluer.. 
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Airplane:
GWS Zero Fighter (retired)
Phoenix .40 Classic Trainer (crashed)
Phoenix .40 Laser (retired)
GWS Estarter (building)
Helicopter:
Hirobo Sceadu Evo 50 w/ .30 engine (retired)
Trex 450XL CDE (retired)
Its not the takeoff and flying, its the landing and repairing, so that you can takeoff and fly again... -
Originally posted by BlackHawkSo far i have only seen very little planes that no need epoxy. Any good low winged plane that doesn't need epoxy to recommend? Epoxy really giving me headaches as i am not a good gluer..
Some planes like foamie can get away with CA I supposed. But I think you should just continue to use epoxy as per normal, you will get better for sure
Just make sure the mix is correct, like Pacer 50/50 etc. Otherwise, it will be rubbery and not adhere well.Stop looking for a gyro in my plane, they are all in the head.
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emi p-38 no need epoxy i think, not sure of the other emi models...
besides, epoxy is a good thing, why don;t want it?DUCT DUCT DUCT GO!!!!Comment
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is the epoxy you're using the 5min, 20 min or 30 mins type? for building maybe should use 20 mins type... more forgiving and can adjust... also thinner.
Else try the UHU POR. not a bad for foam... but epoxy is the strongest... believe me if you are flying... its kinda handy :P
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I will always get the epoxy stain around the body where i stick. Maybe its just me.Originally posted by TomcatFLYER
Airplane:
GWS Zero Fighter (retired)
Phoenix .40 Classic Trainer (crashed)
Phoenix .40 Laser (retired)
GWS Estarter (building)
Helicopter:
Hirobo Sceadu Evo 50 w/ .30 engine (retired)
Trex 450XL CDE (retired)
Its not the takeoff and flying, its the landing and repairing, so that you can takeoff and fly again...Comment
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Mine is the 30mins type.Originally posted by xwingis the epoxy you're using the 5min, 20 min or 30 mins type? for building maybe should use 20 mins type... more forgiving and can adjust... also thinner.
Else try the UHU POR. not a bad for foam... but epoxy is the strongest... believe me if you are flying... its kinda handy :P To me, i find epoxy will cause ugly permanent stains...anyway to clear it?
Airplane:
GWS Zero Fighter (retired)
Phoenix .40 Classic Trainer (crashed)
Phoenix .40 Laser (retired)
GWS Estarter (building)
Helicopter:
Hirobo Sceadu Evo 50 w/ .30 engine (retired)
Trex 450XL CDE (retired)
Its not the takeoff and flying, its the landing and repairing, so that you can takeoff and fly again...Comment
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apply small amount... and use a cloth to wipe it away. wear a disposable rubber glove which u can buy from guardian if you really hate to kanna "stuck" like me...
Usually i mix it on a piece of used foam, 1 x ice cream stick. then use the stick to mix and apply.Comment
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Usually I use my broken prop to mix it & it is rather useful
So guys out there start keeping ur field clean by picking up broken props... it is useful & can throw anytime...
recycle...
good suggestion?Juz crossed over to the DUCT side!
Flying: P-51 Mustang, Corsair, F4 Phantom, Beaver(GF's), TigerMoth(GF's)
Slope Glider: E-Hawk 1500
Still in Box: Formosa, Zero Fighter, Me 109
Things to Sell:
- T-rex 450XL NIB
- Nano Falcon(not build yet)
- Speed 370 motor with JST connector & Spur gear $5, PM meComment
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lol...isn't it too big?Originally posted by CrabbyUsually I use my broken prop to mix it & it is rather useful
So guys out there start keeping ur field clean by picking up broken props... it is useful & can throw anytime...
recycle...
good suggestion?
Airplane:
GWS Zero Fighter (retired)
Phoenix .40 Classic Trainer (crashed)
Phoenix .40 Laser (retired)
GWS Estarter (building)
Helicopter:
Hirobo Sceadu Evo 50 w/ .30 engine (retired)
Trex 450XL CDE (retired)
Its not the takeoff and flying, its the landing and repairing, so that you can takeoff and fly again...Comment
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No really... all u need to do is juz use a scissor to cut the broken prop to the desire shape.(for me i usually cut into a sharp angle for ease of application) Then when the epoxy dried up after use, it can be reuse again by simply cut away the dried epoxy stain on the prop & vola! A new applicator! Using ice-cream stickOriginally posted by BlackHawk
... save the trees guys... 
Juz crossed over to the DUCT side!
Flying: P-51 Mustang, Corsair, F4 Phantom, Beaver(GF's), TigerMoth(GF's)
Slope Glider: E-Hawk 1500
Still in Box: Formosa, Zero Fighter, Me 109
Things to Sell:
- T-rex 450XL NIB
- Nano Falcon(not build yet)
- Speed 370 motor with JST connector & Spur gear $5, PM meComment
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Eh ya, me too! I too use broken props to mix epoxy. Especially for smaller crevices, i use a satay stick to 'plop' one drop. Anyhow, ya, why let broken props go to waste.
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You can get denatured alcohol to clean up epoxy mess, before it cures.Comment
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i'm usually lazy and use hot glue. not a good idea tho.
multiplex planes can get away with standard CA glue...Comment
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Just make sure the user don't throw it back onto the floor after mixing.Originally posted by CrabbyUsually I use my broken prop to mix it & it is rather useful
So guys out there start keeping ur field clean by picking up broken props... it is useful & can throw anytime...
recycle...
good suggestion?
I use toothpick..those old school flat wooden kinds + cupboard from boxes with a glazed side. Easy to mix and apply.Practice makes permanent. Perfect practice makes perfect.Comment
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