hello mr tony, can I know the specs for the set up for the Extra? I am eyeing the CAP kit in SHS. I have a few motors and electronics left over, so just checking if I need to spend more cash. I am going electric.
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Build log for OK Models .10 Extra on Fiberglass (Red Bull color scheme)
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Originally posted by Sunstorm View Posthello mr tony, can I know the specs for the set up for the Extra? I am eyeing the CAP kit in SHS. I have a few motors and electronics left over, so just checking if I need to spend more cash. I am going electric.To win........one must not lose.
Confucius
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Ok, I've bought the CAP kit.
First impression is...how am I going to mount the motor and battery?
Going to get a build thread soon."Always fly with a responsible attitude. You may think that flying low over other people’s heads is proof of your piloting skill; others know better. The real expert does not need to prove himself in such childish ways..." - the Multiplex Build Manual
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For the motor, it'll largely depend on whether you are using an in-runner or outrunner motor. For in runner, use a pair of clampshell electric mounts with the existing motor mount as designed for the kit.
For outrunner, you need to modify the kits engine mount to add a nose plate. You mount the outrunner to the nose plate. I've got to check where I had posted the build log to get a picture of the mount. Easier to make it than it is to describe.To win........one must not lose.
Confucius
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Hi Tony;
great advise there. I'm considering using the 2217 motor that I have lying around with a 9.5 incher. This should give me about 200 watts which should be decent enough.
One of them SHS plastic motor mounts should do the trick nicely.
Next question is probably the battery. I might use a 2200 mah batt for that. Did you make some 'removable hatch' or did you just slot in the battery and then fit on the wing?"Always fly with a responsible attitude. You may think that flying low over other people’s heads is proof of your piloting skill; others know better. The real expert does not need to prove himself in such childish ways..." - the Multiplex Build Manual
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This is the clamp shell mount used on my Pilot HydeAway 10 converted to electric. Motor is an in runner Mega 16/15/2?.
Outrunner mount for an Ax. I used the parts provided in the kit with some modifications to allow the Axi to be nose mounted on the Pilot CAP 10.
The completed CAP - still a bit more trim to be added and cowl to be painted but is in flight ready state - built in 2004. Flew better than the Pilot Suhkhoi 10 - the Sukhoi had a relatively large and long cowl which I think caused it to be rather prone to snapping.
Hope these pictures helps you with your motor mounting question.Last edited by Tony; 05-04-2010, 09:33 AM.To win........one must not lose.
Confucius
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Great advice. I did notice the changes to the plane setup, such as the alternate positioning of the servos and such, and the lightening holes.
Thanks"Always fly with a responsible attitude. You may think that flying low over other people’s heads is proof of your piloting skill; others know better. The real expert does not need to prove himself in such childish ways..." - the Multiplex Build Manual
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Make sure that you provide sufficient cooling air flow for the lipos. You will note that I had cut two large holes on the first fuselage former to allow air coming from cowling air inlets to flow through the battery compartment and out through a a large triangular duct on the bottom of the fuselage starting from just behind the trailing edge of the wing. The cells will get quite hot.
The rear mounted servos for the rudder and elevator provides for a shorter pushrod run which gives more positive control. I used 3 mm carbon rods for all pushrods to save weight and stiffness ie. less wobble than steel pushrods.Last edited by Tony; 05-04-2010, 09:24 AM.To win........one must not lose.
Confucius
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