Of laminated blades

[MicroHeli-Nut]

I tried them and woah!!!!!

Knife edge precision in the cyclics!!!!! One thing to note: Ya need the full stock Feda blades./... T/R has returned very smoothly.....

[bi|Lyb0n9]

hey dude, care to elaborate a little bit more? thanks!

[MicroHeli-Nut]

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=202768&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

Hope ya undersand what Walt Ferar is saying....

Just came up from outdoor flights...The tail is holding up nicely and for the FIRST TIME WITHOUT SEPARATES. my TAIL MOTOR IS COOL!!!! even whilst doing '8's and turnings..... It's not twitchy, and is very stable in hover, but then with the mod be sure to pump throttle early ( but in doing so ur tail won't slip anti clockwise! ) Both motors exhibt lower temperatures..... FFF is real fast, yet easier to pull out from as more control is available in suddenly pull backs and swings.... Heli behaves like it's almost on rails.... No more ballooning. DEscends and ascends feel like CP!!!! Sounds like real heli when spooling down too!!!!!

[BonJour Brat]

Hey u did the link wrongly.. opposite of wad it should be.. click on the thing it goes to http://click here


Sounds cool! Where did u get the heat shrink?

[glenn cain]

oh this, i saw it. walt again lol. basically un-cambering of the original blades by "covering" the underblade-curve sjape buy providing material that runs across the chord of the curve. but yes, what did you use, micronut? wide transparent type scotch tape can anot? any negative points about the blades?

[MicroHeli-Nut]

I was using transparent heatshrink from POPULA bookstore. It should be better to get those coloured ones, because those are in rolls, and the transparent film I used was folded ( price: $1.00-$2.00 ). A better choice would be those coverings from NTC but they are more expensive.

the blades spin real fast, U'll need to have both blades perfectly balanced and tracked, andy deviation brings big VIBES! but once in track ( which is easier than b4) it spins sweet. Both blades have to be screwed on tightly too. Spooling up and down sounds like real high tech helis in the movies... FFF is tighter, Zero ballooning and it's possible to control the heli in fast increase in throttles but control fdecreases in fast decrease of throttle ( wwhich is reverse for the stock blades; however this is exhibited as a steady descent in the modded blades, with less throw on the cyclic ) Heli does not sink as much in either right turn or FFF but stays in close to a constant sloping straight line.

I would suggest this mod to anyone with the full length of stock blades. I tried it on my V-blades. I still find lift lacking..... But what the heck, i was so impressed i managed to hover and fly over my swimming pool!!!

[Tele]

I have been toying with this idea for some time now and have a set already made using the covering stuff from the bamboo rods that you hang the washing on.

they work well ..the added weight gives it more stability it lifts easier but the motor is under extra strain due to the non aerofoil shape ..my motor was definatly hotter then with the MS baldes.

for the added use of the stock baldes and covering for 20c per m then I think its a good addition but I think you will go through some motors more quickly.

I lost quite a bit of speed on my piros with the covered blades....hence the extras power drain.

cheers all.

[MicroHeli-Nut]

My motors run cooler... That's strange... But Walt did mention that he didn't mean heat shrink them and everything had to be kept light. My prio rate is a bit better and the turns are easier to do. Ok ok. so probably Cut blades may help.

[glenn cain]

all in all, if we made a flat bottom wooden blade of width like that of cut blade, wouldn't it be better?

[MicroHeli-Nut]

Weight issues: The lighter it is, the easier for the blades to achieve higher rpm.

[Tele]

Originally posted by MicroHeli-Nut
My motors run cooler... That's strange... But Walt did mention that he didn't mean heat shrink them and everything had to be kept light. My prio rate is a bit better and the turns are easier to do. Ok ok. so probably Cut blades may help.

mmm ok..I laminated or heat shrinked mine ..about 2 weeks ago using the stuff that I had ..it gave it good flight properties but drained the motor of power esp the tail....

do have any pics of what you mean when you say laminate them?

cheers mate

[MicroHeli-Nut]

It basically heat shrink, but the film i used I think are used for laminating books

[MicroHeli-Nut]

Okay to prevent further furstrations and questions, i'll have to go down on WEdnesday and do a live Demo( what a brilliant excuse) ; Then we can see if it's really as good as i made it sound As I've said, I'm working the mod on my cut blades. In the older forum I mentioned I was on cut down Ikarus blades, with that I had to push the rudder to full left. But when I switched back to the cut down Feda blades which are heat shrinked, the heli swung clock wise when i spooled up and i had to decrease rudder trim. I also had to go up to 10 tooth pinion to get the lift results i like.

Sorry if there was any misunderstand. I'll post a video of it b4 Wednesday if i get the time to do so.

right click and save as

http://www.rcsites.net/microheli-nut/blades/SV300010.JPG

http://www.rcsites.net/microheli-nut/blades/SV300011.JPG

http://www.rcsites.net/microheli-nut/blades/SV300013.JPG

[Tele]

no problems mate ..I am a visual person and need to see ..here is a pic of mine

[MicroHeli-Nut]

WEre they flat bottomed? did the bottom conform to the original curvature? Can't tell from your pic. How many layers did you use?