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HP DPS-600PB 12V/24V 47A 1150W Power Supply Build Thread

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    #61
    Did you mean I still have to make sure the floated unit is still connected to the other psu like the photo below in order to use the floated unit as a single 12v unit?

    Originally posted by yhchoong View Post
    Front 1:

    Comment


      #62
      Very sorry Mflex, I did not know you posted again.

      This is what I meant:
      Click image for larger version

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      Floating Ground on the right hand unit will take reference from your regular Ground (DC and AC tied together) on the left hand unit in this configuration via the jumper cable. So you have essentially "de-isolated" the floating ground unit and it will be act as 2 regular/separate 12V power supplies again.

      Comment


        #63
        Please tell me where to find the final steps to finish the assembly and the installation of the black and red connectors.

        Comment


          #64
          Originally posted by yhchoong View Post
          Very sorry Mflex, I did not know you posted again.

          This is what I meant:
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]126079[/ATTACH]

          Floating Ground on the right hand unit will take reference from your regular Ground (DC and AC tied together) on the left hand unit in this configuration via the jumper cable. So you have essentially "de-isolated" the floating ground unit and it will be act as 2 regular/separate 12V power supplies again.
          Hi,

          Thank you so much for this thread. To have this connected in parallel we only have to connect the red terminals like the black ones, right?

          JFonseca

          Comment


            #65
            Hi JFonseca, technically it may work but I don't recommend it.

            The power supplies that I have modded in this thread do not have their current share pin (ribbon number 9, if you go by my naming convention) connected together, so if wired in parallel by connecting from the binding posts they may or may not handle the load equally.

            On a more serious note, the binding posts and 10 AWG wiring used will not be able to handle 94A of current that the supplies in parallel are capable of.

            Comment


              #66
              Originally posted by yhchoong View Post
              Hi JFonseca, technically it may work but I don't recommend it.

              The power supplies that I have modded in this thread do not have their current share pin (ribbon number 9, if you go by my naming convention) connected together, so if wired in parallel by connecting from the binding posts they may or may not handle the load equally.

              On a more serious note, the binding posts and 10 AWG wiring used will not be able to handle 94A of current that the supplies in parallel are capable of.
              Hi Choong, I hv PM u. Or can call me..81130300. Tks

              Comment


                #67
                Originally posted by valyap View Post
                Hi Choong, I hv PM u. Or can call me..81130300. Tks
                Hello! PM replied.

                Comment


                  #68
                  Hi Choong,
                  Thanks , look forward to hear from you, I am totally new to RC toys, very blurr in power supply and charger etc..... many thanks

                  Comment


                    #69
                    I followed this guide and made my 1st 24V PSU. Thanks yhchoong.

                    Materials:
                    2 x 1.25-4L ring terminal (for crimping ribbon cable 1-5 to GND).
                    8 x 6mm 10awg yellow ring terminal (for connecting from GND and 12V on the PCB to binding post)
                    4 x 8mm 10awg yellow ring terminal (for jointing the 2 PSU)
                    2 x M3x8 nylon screws (for floating ground of the 2nd PSU)
                    4 x binding posts
                    ring terminals were bought from sim lim tower and the M3x8 nylon screw and binding posts are from hobbyking.

                    Tools:
                    Crimp tools for insulated terminal (bought from sim lim tower)
                    black and decker drill (I already had this which was used for drilling holes on the wall.)

                    Procedures:
                    1. Remove the hot-swap board. (remove the ribbon connector, cut the 2 wires and remove screws)
                    2. Strip the wire 1-5 and crimp them together. I just use a paper knife and carefully cut a little bit on the insulation and be able to strip it off by pulling hard.
                    3. Floating ground for the 2nd PSU: Remove the left and right screws from the PCB. I put the electrical insulation tape under the 2 holes. I didn't remove the whole board so the spacing between the PCB and standoffs are very limited. I just used a flat tip screw driver to push the insulation tape under the PCB holes. Then punch a hole through the tape then screw in the nylon screws.
                    (Step 1-3 took about 2 hours for 2 PSU.)
                    4. Drill holes and mount the binding posts. The holes for my binding post are 7mm.
                    (Step 4 took me 2 hours for the 2 PSU.)
                    5. Cover the gap below the biding post with duct tape and also use it to wrap the 2 together.

                    Here is the final image.

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Well done congyuan, that looks awesome! Enjoy

                      Comment


                        #71
                        I just registered to say thanks to the OP for this thread - I've created two of these now (as 12V only) once using an inferior guide and now largely following yours.

                        I made a couple of changes though!

                        - I only sent 1,2&3 direct to GND, I did this because.....
                        - added a simple 2pin rocker switch, taking 4&5 to one side of the switch and then sending the other to the GND post
                        - Placed a 3K3 1W resistor between 6&8 to bring the voltage up to 13.25V
                        - I relocated the rear LED to the front panel! This was pretty easy. Unscrew the heat sinks and just pull the whole thing from front to back. Simple drill hole on the front panel, use the original LED mount and bazinga! You've got an on light you can see.

                        The last one I'm especially happy with, it makes nice having the light on the front

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Oh, and I also found this post over at rc groups very helpful.

                          RC Groups - the most active Radio Control model community: electric and fuel rc airplanes,rc helis,rc boats and rc cars. Features discussion forums, blogs, videos and classifieds.

                          Comment


                            #73
                            Hi,

                            Can you elaborate why you have a switch between 1,2,3 and 4,5? Sorry I'm not an electronic guy. But trying to learn.

                            Originally posted by cplus View Post
                            I just registered to say thanks to the OP for this thread - I've created two of these now (as 12V only) once using an inferior guide and now largely following yours.

                            I made a couple of changes though!

                            - I only sent 1,2&3 direct to GND, I did this because.....
                            - added a simple 2pin rocker switch, taking 4&5 to one side of the switch and then sending the other to the GND post
                            - Placed a 3K3 1W resistor between 6&8 to bring the voltage up to 13.25V
                            - I relocated the rear LED to the front panel! This was pretty easy. Unscrew the heat sinks and just pull the whole thing from front to back. Simple drill hole on the front panel, use the original LED mount and bazinga! You've got an on light you can see.

                            The last one I'm especially happy with, it makes nice having the light on the front

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Sure.

                              Firstly, when you take away the front board assembly you remove a few features that need to be recreated. 1&2 need to be grounded, so easiest way to to tie direct to the GND post.

                              3 is fan speed control, grounding this puts it into auto mode (as opposed to flat out) again recreating what would be in place when used as intended.

                              4&5 are used for on/off control, when used in the server, these would be "pulled" to ground by the controller in the server.

                              The OP solution is to tie these direct along with 1,2&3 creating an "always on" scenario.

                              I want to have control of this, be able to have my PS plugged in at the socket and be able to turn it on and off, hence a switch.

                              What I'm essentially doing is controlling when 4&5 are pulled to ground. The switch is simply a break point between 4,5 & GND.


                              Long winded answer, hopefully all you need to know and more is covered!!

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Thanks for the explanation

                                So, essentially connecting the 4 and 5 to ground turn on the power supply. Did I understand you correctly?

                                Do we need a diode from positive of one power supply to the negative of the other power supply?
                                Originally posted by cplus View Post
                                Sure.

                                Firstly, when you take away the front board assembly you remove a few features that need to be recreated. 1&2 need to be grounded, so easiest way to to tie direct to the GND post.

                                3 is fan speed control, grounding this puts it into auto mode (as opposed to flat out) again recreating what would be in place when used as intended.

                                4&5 are used for on/off control, when used in the server, these would be "pulled" to ground by the controller in the server.

                                The OP solution is to tie these direct along with 1,2&3 creating an "always on" scenario.

                                I want to have control of this, be able to have my PS plugged in at the socket and be able to turn it on and off, hence a switch.

                                What I'm essentially doing is controlling when 4&5 are pulled to ground. The switch is simply a break point between 4,5 & GND.


                                Long winded answer, hopefully all you need to know and more is covered!!

                                Comment

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