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    #16
    Thanks Tony for all the infor and pic....hmmmm is a kit for the advance builder as most part needs alot of triming to fit am I right to say Have tried to build nitro balsa kit before but with my skill and all the improper tools. The end result is .... less than acceptable... most of all still dont know how to do a proper covering of the air frame

    Cool may be go get a cheap cheap balsa kit and start building again .... BTW anybody willing to teach how to do covering .... I mean demo.... ..... hands on section ...... stuka how about you

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      #17



      One of the most critical things to do when building fuselages is to get them absolutely square and straight. Its all too easy to end up with a lob sided banana. I align the fuselage to a reference line on the building board make sure its straight and then use the right angle to make sure its square. Then its hands off until the glue dries up.




      Then its just a matter of slotting in all the other formers, checking each time to make sure that the fuselage remains straight and square.






      Motor mount is a lite ply/hard balsa composite. G clamps is a must here as the fuselage sides (medium hard balsa) are pretty hard to bend even when softened with water.








      Tail blocks fitted in place.





      Sheeting of turtle deck in progress. You will note that I have added 1/4in square stringers across the fuselage. Unmodified, I sure that there is adequate strength in the formers to resist breakage when the fuselage is held (with care) but being the ham fisted person I am, I added in a couple of stringers just in case so I don’t ever have to hear the dreaded “crack” if I were to squeeze the fuselage a little too hard when carrying it. Once its sheeted up, it’ll be virtually impossible to reach it for repairs.










      Here, I modified the balsa blocks at the nose to accommodate balsa blocks with grain running across each other. This strengthens the balsa and prevents it from chipping off, especially during sanding.










      Fuselage has been given its first rough sanding and low spots have received balsa putty. This needs to be fully dry (overnight) before it can be sanded down. The fibreglass cowl and canopy are trial fitted on.




      The canopy was a bit of a pain as lines were not moulded in to show you where to cut. It was by trial and error that I managed to do it.






      I am going to be pretty busy with work this week so the Alliance CP will probably be put aside until the weekend before any further progress can be expected.
      To win........one must not lose.

      Confucius

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by loyn

        Cool may be go get a cheap cheap balsa kit and start building again .... BTW anybody willing to teach how to do covering .... I mean demo.... ..... hands on section

        Go to the electric flying forum

        http://www.rcflying.cjb.net/

        I have a short tutorial on how to cover model airplanes. Its usually the most daunting task for a first time kit builder. My advice is to practice with some scraps until you get accustomed to the shrinking and sticking qualities of your particular covering material.
        To win........one must not lose.

        Confucius

        Comment


          #19


          One of the most critical phase of model plane construction is to get the wing absolutely level (in this case 0 degrees incidence) and square with the fuselage. Measuring tape used to ensure that the wing tips are equidistant to a pin at the centre of fuselage tail. Lots of patience required here with the trimming needed to get a good fit. Once everything is aligned and fitted, the wing is pinned down and the wing mounting sub fuselage parts and pegs are expoxied into place.



          Wing mated, waiting for epoxy to set.
          To win........one must not lose.

          Confucius

          Comment


            #20
            Aerotow???

            Nice build Tony. Excellent work as always.....

            You may wonder where all these compliments are leading too.... well, are you going to use this to aerotow my 3m gliders so I dont have to lug 2lbs of batteries and motors in my sailplanes.......



            Shane
            Shane

            Comment


              #21
              Shane, I doubt if this plane will be good for aerotowing. For that you'll need a big Cub or similar.
              To win........one must not lose.

              Confucius

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by loyn
                Thanks Tony for all the infor and pic....hmmmm is a kit for the advance builder as most part needs alot of triming to fit am I right to say

                Actually no - the parts fit is very very good. Although MK does not use laser cutting for this particular kit, the die cutting quality is equal to laser cutting in terms of accuracy.

                Having said this, this kit is not recommended for beginners. I think they have other kits (sports type models) that may be less of a challenge to a first time kit builder. Also, the lack of photos and instructions will probably cause a first time builder to screw up the kit big time.
                To win........one must not lose.

                Confucius

                Comment


                  #23
                  Nice build Tony, this will be a beautiful plane to fly i'm very sure

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I hope so. So far, its been coming together pretty rapidly and I am enjoying the build. Maybe try to finish this in a couple of weeks, if time allows.
                    To win........one must not lose.

                    Confucius

                    Comment


                      #25


                      5 oz fibre glass is laid down to strengthen the wing joint. 3M 77 is very lightly misted over the section to be glassed. This holds down the fibreglass in place and prevents pockets forming when the epoxy is applied.



                      To minimise the amount of epoxy and keep weight down, a few drops of epoxy is applied and then scraped vigourously to get it through the glass.






                      Fuselage sub assembly in place on the wing awaiting shaping and final sanding.
                      To win........one must not lose.

                      Confucius

                      Comment


                        #26


                        Its not that easily understood from the plan just how the wing servo mounts are to be installed. The following photos will give an idea. I am using smaller servos than was provided for. 2mm ply is used for mounting the servo. This is not sufficient for the wood screws to bite on. I used some scrap to add another 2mm for a more secure mount.









                        Whats missing from the plan are the cap strips that need to be added to the servo mounts. Without there won't be any surface for the covering to anchor on to. Some sanding is required to shape it to follow the curvature of the wing.



                        Wing mounting bolt plate glued in wing is given a final check for alignment.



                        Fuselage sub structure is carved and sanded to shape.



                        Here she is. Structural construction is completed. Awaiting final sanding with 120 grit to be followed by covering.
                        To win........one must not lose.

                        Confucius

                        Comment


                          #27
                          her naked look...beautiful man ... .

                          Tony, how do u keep the construction area so clean... ...dont u need to cut or sand anything to shape?

                          Saw a bottle of probond or something in the pic, wats that?

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                            #28
                            Probond is an aliphatic (wood) glue. I feel that its better than the other brands of aliphatic glue in that its got quite a bit of "grab" when the two parts to be glued are given a light coating and then allowed to dry a couple of minutes first before pushing the two parts together. I prefer it over CA because the fumes that CA gives off gives me a splittin headache. It cleans up with a wet rag.

                            Yes, I mess up the place with wood shavings etc too so its good to have dustpan and brush handy so I can clear up regularly. Sanding is done outdoors.
                            To win........one must not lose.

                            Confucius

                            Comment


                              #29
                              She looks real sweet even just the air frame.... she will be even better after she put on her covering

                              Really nicely build, yrs of experience shows in your workmanship Hmmm I thought probound is only good for foam plane looks like I am wrong again

                              BTW I believe you are going to cover it with multi colour right ? That will be interesting as I always wanted to know how they were been done. Have trired long time ago but failed badly uneven and alignment issue. Hope you can show us some tips how you are going to do it.....or you are using paint instead

                              Once again thanks

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Yeah .... keep them coming, enjoy reading

                                Mike

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