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Project Hirobo <Jet Ranger> Rebuild/Respray Log

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    Project Hirobo <Jet Ranger> Rebuild/Respray Log

    Bought this nice scale heli from a Good Bro on behalf of a Buddy..

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    It's a Hirobo Shuttle 30 Size with a Jet Ranger Fuse..

    Decided to do a complete 'overhaul' on the Heli and a complete respray & build of the Jet Ranger fuse a this is a Classic ..


    #2
    The Fuse was stripped off the Heli and the whole Heli was taken apart for cleaning and refurbishing by my Buddy..

    Even the engine was completely taken apart, as all the movable parts(Carb, piston, throttle arm, etc.) were jammed; Probably due to years of storage. Engine was cleaned down and all parts inspected prior to putting it together.

    The fuse had also seen it's years of storage and 'wear & tear'. The paint on the bottom part was all sticky and coming off, staining whatever it contacts with. Alot of stains here and there, and the painting job on it was a little off.. Hence had decided to strip the paint down to the bare fibreglass shell..

    Hopefully (with Fingers Crossed), myself and others newly going into scale helis can learn from this thread.

    Closer look at original paintwork of fuse that came with it..
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    Stains on the original paintwork..
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    This Pic, you can see the tactky, sticky, melting paint at the bottom coming off..
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    Original aged epoxy joint marks of the horizontal stabs on the tail.. :
    Bottom view of tail..
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    Top view of tail, you can see paint was chipped off at the edge of tail.
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    As I have to balance work and play, I will try to take and upload as much pictures and update as fast as I can..

    While waiting, in between, please feel free to suggest or comment, as I have no experience painting a Heli before..
    And hopefully learn from the experience guys here.. Thanks

    Comment


      #3
      The front 'windscreen' had been carefully removed.
      All the loose wood for the screw to mount will also be removed.

      Front Section of fuse after the 'windscreen' removed..
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      Upon closer inspection, the original paintwork that came with it is actually in quite bad shape..
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      After inspection of the current fuse condition.. Will probably be using THINNER to scrub down all the paint till it's bare fibre.
      There's no two ways about it I guess.. If I will to just sand down only, the damaged melting paint on some parts will eventually 'eat' it's way out onto the new paint job.. That's going to be a total waste of effort.
      Moreover some parts is really uneven as it is.

      'Lao Jiaos' here.. seeking all help and advise I can get.. Thanks

      Comment


        #4
        bet you will need plenty of thinner.
        I love PAP

        Comment


          #5
          hallobaby bro,
          you were absolutely right.. I've used almost 90% of a 1 gallon tin worth of Thinner to removed everything completely clean. <== after smelling all the thinner..

          While at it, I realised that the fuse had about 3 different paint jobs done on it before, 1 over the other..

          The difficult part is when I reach the bottom-most layer, where I believe is factory primer.. Absolute pain to remove.

          Finally, when I reach the bare fibreglass, I used 400-500 grit sandpaper soaked in thinner to sand the surface smooth and removing all 'defects' of the fibreglass. Also to try to have a smooth surface to prepare it for spraying primer.

          Afterwhich, the bare glass fuse was then wiped down with a clean cloth and thinner again to completely remove any residues left on the fuse. Then the fuse was given a shower with dishwashing detergent and scrubbed with 500 grit sand paper before leaving to dry. the final sanding is also to 'scuffed' up the surface letting the eventual primer layer to adhere better..

          I will try to post the 'thinnered' down pics of fuse later toady.. Thanks

          Comment


            #6
            "Finally, when I reach the bare fibreglass, I used 400-500 grit sandpaper soaked in thinner to sand the surface smooth and removing all 'defects' of the fibreglass. Also to try to have a smooth surface to prepare it for spraying primer."

            This are the Pitures after the 'wash down' with thinner..
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            You can see the 'white residue' on the fuse..
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            All the 'loose wood' mounts are glued back carefully using CA..
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            Everthing is nice and clean now to start all neccessary prep for primer. Just need to 'Shower' it and do a final sand down from here.
            The sad part is that the Thinner had melted and deformed the 02 x Horizontal stabs which were some plasticky foam sh1t.. It had also exposed all the ugly joint marks and fibre factory inperfections clearly..

            So now need to fabricate new Horizontal Stabs out of Balsa (as it's the easiest wood to sand and form a shape ) to replace the melted stabs..

            Seeing the Horizontal Stabs deformed with Thinner, I hesitated to 'thinner' down the Vertical Stab.. Just going to sand it down; In case it's made of the same material..
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            Will try to organise pics and post the 'Home Made Balsa Stabs' and pics of the fuse after the 'Shower & final sanding' soon..

            Comment


              #7
              "[cont..]....the bare glass fuse was then wiped down with a clean cloth and thinner again to completely remove any residues left on the fuse. Then the fuse was given a shower with dishwashing detergent and scrubbed with 500 grit sand paper before leaving to dry. the final sanding is also to 'scuffed' up the surface letting the eventual primer layer to adhere better.."

              This is the fuse after using 500 grit sandpaper soaked in washing detergent + water..
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              It's important to 'scuff' up the already smooth surface to ensure good adhesive of primer..
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              It's also important to always 'clean up' the surface with detergent or alcohol to ensure there's no oil or any residue before any painting / in this case priming..
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              This is the stabs carved and sanded out of balsa to replicate the damaged stabs. Partially 'puttied' before using primer to cover up more of the wood grains and 'low holes'..
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              The stabs are secured by using a sawed off mid-section of a screw (as there were holes where the stab mounts) drilled into the stab and CA to the fuse..
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              For all the ugly join parts on the fuse, I intend to spray a thin layer of Primer on the whole fuse first, afterwhich, putty up all the, by then, still visible defects and low areas.
              Same goes for the horizontal stabs as well.. as I believe the putty will be easier to apply over primer.
              Once done, I'll spray primer over everything, probably 2 - 3 coats and fine sanding in-between coats to level out..

              Note* - The base primer coat will dictate your finishing outlook. The smoother, finer, flatter, etc.. the base primer coat is; so will your finished colours/clear appears and shows out..

              Comment


                #8
                Looks very nice bro.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by nubie.pilot View Post
                  Looks very nice bro.
                  Thank you very much for your kind words bro..

                  Comment


                    #10
                    These next few post will share the methods of priming I had used..

                    *Note* Patience is Key!

                    After ensuring surface and all is prepared and cleaned of any oil or residue, priming begins:

                    Firstly, I sprayed a very thin layer all around; this layer is just to ensure Good adhesive of later layers to come..
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                    You need not worry about 'even-ness' at this point as this is like a 'Tact' Layer only.. Use fast, short strokes to spray..
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                    Basically, it's just a thin layer spread around barely covering the fibre fuse only.
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                    After waiting for around 15 mins (depending on brand of primer used) for the thin layer of 'tact' primer to dry, I laid a second thin layer. Only difference is, this layer, I start to make sure it's a more even layer all round.
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                    This second layer is basically to cover those areas the first layer 'missed'.
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                    Again, after waiting for 15-20mins (depending on brand of primer used) for it to dry, the third thin layer is sprayed. This time, I run through all the edges of the Fuse and also ensuring an even coat.. Edges always has the least paint, this is to try to make sure edges has a better layer of paint..
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                    If you observe closely, some of this pics are taken from the same spot, but if you look at the 'newspaper' you can see slightly thicker coverage of paint on it; this is how thin each layer is!!
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                    Tried to attach more pics, but servers says can only do 10 pics per post.. so.. to be continued..

                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #11
                      (cont..) dont know where the very last pic above appear from..

                      Anyway, after waiting for the third layer to dry as before, a final fourth layer is sprayed before I puttied the 'ugly spot'. For this layer, I sprayed it slightly thick (by using a slower stroke). Make sure it's uniformed and even throughout.. It would save you less work of sanding later..
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                      These following pics are after the fourth layer dried, You can clearly see now where are the places that need to be puttied..
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                      Always ensure that the previous layer laid before is completely dried before attempting to lay a new coat!! Or the new coat will start to react with it, either 'bubbling' or will start to 'crease' (Probably because of the reducer in the aerosol).. However, 'IF' this happens, STOP immediately, wait for the 'damaged' paint to dry completely and sand it off, then start all over again at the sand off part..

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Nice painting tips. Me need to restore some of my fuselages too.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Primer available in can ? Where to buy?
                          Scratch building is more than cutting balsa wood and gluing them. Its a complex process that will test even the most resilient of people

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Adrianli View Post
                            Nice painting tips. Me need to restore some of my fuselages too.
                            Do it Bro~
                            I always feel that max satisfaction especially for scale plane/helis alike is flying one that you painted/built from scratch..

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by flybywire View Post
                              Primer available in can ? Where to buy?
                              HI,
                              Primer is available in can, Pylox, etc.. many brands in market, though some good and some not. They have 2 main types in general, Brown/Red one - normally for metal with anti-rust properties, Gray/White - for other materials..

                              Though Can Primer is not as good as the ones used by Auto Paint Shop, as theirs is utherane(dunno correct spelling not) base, mix of though liquids, somewaht like epoxy.. But aerosol is good enough for hobby. just need to control better with your finger(pressure) and hand(distance & stroke)..

                              =]

                              Comment

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