Hpi bullet

[elmosan]

Hi, I intend to get this for normal runs on turf and not so much bashing... Just running ard. Any comments on this model? I read that it is very weak and needs to replace parts that broke after every session at the tracks..

[TWE75]

Firstly i myself own the Bullet ST . 2nd you have to know how those pple run it . And by now , the latest batch of Bullet now comes with better quality parts on top of using 2.4ghz tx and rx .

I hardly encounter breakages other then the normal wear and tear . Similar to you , i only do some running on grass , football field and cement floor . But there are a few mods to do like the bump stop mods to prevent the suspension caps from from popping open after a hard landing .

And also those tracks have alot of slopes for jumping . And you have to try your best to train landing your truck on all 4 wheels , else of cos may get damaged . I have seen how my hardcore friend trash his truck a HPI SAVAGE XS til the suspension eyelet breaks off .

[TWE75]

Bro , read this thread for Bullet ST/MT trucks . http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/93...t-owners-club/ . Definitely better then whatever i said .

[elmosan]

Ok I got got mine from a bro. Can I ask what causes the front steering wheels to wobble when i go reverse? the wheels just wobble left and right during reverse

[TWE75]

Does it wobbles alot and does it wobble too when going forward ? In any case , kindly check the nuts of the wheels whether they are tight . And when screwing back , use some threadlock as you would for heli as this part has the most movement and shock and they are also tuned to have abit of wobbles as mine also wobbles abit ( about 1 to 2mm i think ) but as long as it doesn't affect performance it should be ok . . For bump stop mod , you can refer to the HPI video webby to know how to do it , pretty simple and you only need some silicon tubing ( those used for rc fuel lines ) . http://www.hpieurope.com/tv13/?vidID=141 And you may want to get shock socks to prevent your shock shaft from getting dirty and having to change your shock oil so often . This is what i did to mine although race eager pple tend to avoid as they claim to affect the suspension travel . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAKkJ2vyMow . I don't know how stock your bullet is but you may want to change the servo to a 20kg torgue servo to let you handle turning at higher or top speed . The stock servo can hardly turn at top speed .

For more info , you can try here http://www.rctech.net/forum/singapor...t-mt-flux.html as this forum specialies on rc vehicles on top of the UK Bullet forum .

[elmosan]

Does it wobbles alot and does it wobble too when going forward ? In any case , kindly check the nuts of the wheels whether they are tight . And when screwing back , use some threadlock as you would for heli as this part has the most movement and shock and they are also tuned to have abit of wobbles as mine also wobbles abit ( about 1 to 2mm i think ) but as long as it doesn't affect performance it should be ok . . For bump stop mod , you can refer to the HPI video webby to know how to do it , pretty simple and you only need some silicon tubing ( those used for rc fuel lines ) . http://www.hpieurope.com/tv13/?vidID=141 And you may want to get shock socks to prevent your shock shaft from getting dirty and having to change your shock oil so often . This is what i did to mine although race eager pple tend to avoid as they claim to affect the suspension travel . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAKkJ2vyMow . I don't know how stock your bullet is but you may want to change the servo to a 20kg torgue servo to let you handle turning at higher or top speed . The stock servo can hardly turn at top speed .

For more info , you can try here http://www.rctech.net/forum/singapor...t-mt-flux.html as this forum specialies on rc vehicles on top of the UK Bullet forum .

Forward is no problem, so only high speed reverse there is problem, shaking left and right.

Getting used to the power, its really fast! Unbelievable...Dangerous too... hehehe

Thanks bro, I will check out the links

[TWE75]

Take care not to let it run or bump onto you . I ever had nearly 1cm of the skin on my toe ripped off by the aluminion plate below , when i underestimate the speed and it ran up my foot . I'm using 120a Hobbywing SCT PRO with a leopard hobby 3660 motor with 13t pinion gear . Really strong especially when you run it on sand , with those chevron tyres , you can really see those sand being blasted out esp when you drift for a u turn . Enjoy dude .

[elmosan]

Take care not to let it run or bump onto you . I ever had nearly 1cm of the skin on my toe ripped off by the aluminion plate below , when i underestimate the speed and it ran up my foot . I'm using 120a Hobbywing SCT PRO with a leopard hobby 3660 motor with 13t pinion gear . Really strong especially when you run it on sand , with those chevron tyres , you can really see those sand being blasted out esp when you drift for a u turn . Enjoy dude .

I will run on stock config awhile longer to get used to it first... Before I think of doing any upgrades..

U running 3s bro?

[TWE75]

Yup , but i also run 2s lipo's . Cos earlier on the stock can only run 2s . Actually my current esc can run til 4s but scare the esc can't take the heat . 3s the esc already heat up pretty fast already .

[elmosan]

Yup , but i also run 2s lipo's . Cos earlier on the stock can only run 2s . Actually my current esc can run til 4s but scare the esc can't take the heat . 3s the esc already heat up pretty fast already .

Im using 3300mAh 35C 7.4V 2s batts. But my bullet cant take the heat. I only ran on turf and road, but after like 2mins, the Bullet start to cut out. ESC is hot, motor is hot. Very hot. Batt is cool.


Any suggestions? I was thinking of removing the stock pinion and drop the tooth count...

[TWE75]

Yup can do that , but it would lower your speed . Another alternative is to install one of these fan http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Hobbywing...item2a117e6a38 onto your esc . Tap the 12v from your battery terminal at the esc and run 3s to supply 12v ( but this may fry your stock motor ) . And also you can buy those motor heat sink cum fan ( something like this http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Integy-Mo...item2a1d49bfc2 ) to help cool your motor . I did that for mine even though its supposed to be able to run 3s battery . Similar heatsink cum 1 fan is available locally .

But the easy way is not to run your bullet to max speed all the time . Even the guys at the track don't run 100% speed all the time , only abt at most 70% . The motor hot is due to the pinion tooth correct ( since you are running only 2s ) , you can drop it but your bullet speed will drop also . That was the reason why i upgraded the electronics . Actually you can wait for the esc to cool down then you can play again . The esc will resume working once the temperature drops back , its not the end of your playing sessions . Get a friend to play or chat with , then the cooling time for the esc won't be such a pain . Also you can cut some holes or vents on your bullet shell to allow some air to flow inside when the truck is running . Don't cut too much , else it will affect the strength of the shell when you topple over . The Painted shell for Bullet ST is not available locally yet .

Even if you upgrade the electronics , if you still run it at full speed the whole time . The esc will still shut off to cool down . Then resume back to normal . Do you fly your plane at 100% throttle all the time ? Doesn't it get hot also ?

[elmosan]

Yup can do that , but it would lower your speed . Another alternative is to install one of these fan http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Hobbywing...item2a117e6a38 onto your esc . Tap the 12v from your battery terminal at the esc and run 3s to supply 12v ( but this may fry your stock motor ) . And also you can buy those motor heat sink cum fan ( something like this http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Integy-Mo...item2a1d49bfc2 ) to help cool your motor . I did that for mine even though its supposed to be able to run 3s battery . Similar heatsink cum 1 fan is available locally .

But the easy way is not to run your bullet to max speed all the time . Even the guys at the track don't run 100% speed all the time , only abt at most 70% . The motor hot is due to the pinion tooth correct ( since you are running only 2s ) , you can drop it but your bullet speed will drop also . That was the reason why i upgraded the electronics . Actually you can wait for the esc to cool down then you can play again . The esc will resume working once the temperature drops back , its not the end of your playing sessions . Get a friend to play or chat with , then the cooling time for the esc won't be such a pain . Also you can cut some holes or vents on your bullet shell to allow some air to flow inside when the truck is running . Don't cut too much , else it will affect the strength of the shell when you topple over . The Painted shell for Bullet ST is not available locally yet .

Even if you upgrade the electronics , if you still run it at full speed the whole time . The esc will still shut off to cool down . Then resume back to normal . Do you fly your plane at 100% throttle all the time ? Doesn't it get hot also ?

Thanks bro for reply..

My throttle is only intermittent burst, and still overheats. Yup will do the heatsink mod.

Actually plane in my experience different. Plane even If full throttle it wont cut. Somemore always got air flow blowing mah! heheheh At most come down batts bloated and runtime is short. But will never cut in air, cos cut means deadstick. Actually I am very generous with ESC. For planes, I double the expected current rating. THats why when landed even if full punch, it will only warm. Heli different matter, always hot! Maybe I too used to fly plane thats why not used to car.

Will mod the heatsink and update, I got tons of spare CPU Sinks and Fans! Its time to whip out my arctic silver compound!!