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Meshing of rc helicopter motor pinion with the main gear

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    Meshing of rc helicopter motor pinion with the main gear

    I am having a difficulty with the correct meshing of the motor pinion with the main gear on my Align TRex 250 helicopter. The pinion is grinding up the teeth on the main gear--already damaged two main gears by now, the second with less than 30 minutes of spooling up and barely flying.

    I can understand the first time because the pinion had slipped on the motor shaft and as a result, the main gear got damaged because the pinion wasn't properly engaging the full depth of the main gear.

    However, the second time around, there was a good engagement of the full depth of the gear teeth, but after a while the gear teeth were obviously grounded away (white powder from the main gear coming off) as the helicopter spools up.

    All the parts were original Align 250 parts.

    Does anyone else have a similar problem? If so, did you managed to solve it? Would appreciate your sharing of how you solved this.

    #2
    I have now learnt an important lesson on the criticality of meshing the pinion correctly with the main gear. This was on my new Align TRex 450L.

    Not knowing how to do this properly, I had initially meshed this too tightly. This caused the ESC to be excessively loaded to the point where the ESC would overheat and cut-out after just 2 minutes of spooling on the ground. Yet the battery would be barely 20% discharged at the point when this occurs.

    Initially I thought I had a bad ESC--so this was replaced. But the new ESC had the same problem. It was only when I stumbled on the different ways of getting the right mesh that I discovered the ESC problem was also solved at the same time. And the ESC ran cooler too.

    There are various posting on the internet on the right meshing and also debates on what is the right way. I shall not take a stand which is right or wrong, but I tried this one and the abovementioned problem was resolved:

    ***Disclaimer I use the word click to Indicate Backlash less syllables.*** What's up Everybody?, Thanks for watching! In this Tutorial I will show you ...


    This method does not require much judgement for newbie like me. May be the other methods would be more effective when I become an expert.

    Comment


      #3
      a thin strip of paper would serve to check if the meshing is correctly done. I'm not sure if this method still works considering all kinds of slant gear in the market.
      Heli-ADDICTION:
      Mikado Logos, RaptorG4s, X7F, 600ESP...
      JUST one more Logo...for the month.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by feudallordcult View Post
        a thin strip of paper would serve to check if the meshing is correctly done. I'm not sure if this method still works considering all kinds of slant gear in the market.
        Agree with this bro but i normally use tissue paper instead.
        Too many helis!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ah_liang View Post
          Agree with this bro but i normally use tissue paper instead.
          even better. see u tmr same time and place. btw, bring full body armour cos there'll be an experiment of sorts.
          Heli-ADDICTION:
          Mikado Logos, RaptorG4s, X7F, 600ESP...
          JUST one more Logo...for the month.

          Comment


            #6
            Will stay behind the trees bro!
            Too many helis!

            Comment


              #7
              The gear on mine is precisely slant or helical. The method still works--or so it seems for now.

              Originally posted by feudallordcult View Post
              a thin strip of paper would serve to check if the meshing is correctly done. I'm not sure if this method still works considering all kinds of slant gear in the market.

              Comment


                #8
                I dont use paper.
                I just adjust the meshing until at high spot, when i move the main gears, there is still a clicking between gear to pinion.
                Meaning there is free play, or technically - a backlash on the gears,
                Back lash is important on all gears and pulley system. With them, something will wear out very very fast.
                I'm Remotely Controlled ...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes, this was also one of the techniques that I found. But for me, I am still new to this and still not sure how much backlash is acceptable. So what I did was to use the paper approach. Then after that, I went one tooth at a time on the main gear and check the backlash. Obviously, I have detected that the main gear has a high point where the meshing was relatively tighter and other parts where the meshing is relatively looser. So my worry at this point is that I still haven't learnt what is the right amount of backlash.

                  I now have another issue--the teeth on the tail drive gear got stripped. I think the tail rotor must have hit something hard when I last landed, although I don't see anything on the ground. I have noticed that the grass has a certain characteristic parting where the tail rotor was. But don't tell me that grass is so significant that it can cause the tail drive gear to strip?

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