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    Stream F3K build

    I though it will be a good idea to start a new thread on the stream to discuss and share tips and tricks on building this beautiflu model.
    Anyway, stream is my very 1st first hand dlg (excluding stratch builds).
    stream team from Lithuania lived up to their expectations and produced a model with the reputation of having one of the best composite finishing ever.
    i cant help but to smile each time i see the stream, everything is just so smooth and shiny~

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    Attached Files

    #2
    since i still cant decide the servo placement and orientation in the pod, i might as well start with the tails first so i can move things around later to match the cg.



    with masking tape, i marked out where i want to cut to slot in the vertical tail. the slot is then cut out with a dremel and then filed to exact shape.

    Comment


      #3
      oops, no idea why photos nvr show up.

      Comment


        #4
        sometimes, cliking the attatchment will open up the image, sometimes, it wont. strange....anyway, if anybody really want the photos, pm or whatsapp.

        for now, i will make the elevator detatchable to fit in my glider bag easily. this means the string wont be knotted down onto the horn. instead, i made a little hook with piano wire. the tension from the spring should prevent it from ever slipping out.
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        pylon is glued on with epoxy with an extra piece of fiber glass wrapped around for added security.
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        the original nylon screws for mounting the horizontal stab is way too long and needs to be cut. of course i kept the elevator on as i glued down the pylon to ensure perfect alignment.
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        Comment


          #5
          past few days was all spent on the wings. first thing first when it come to the wings, mark out the servo posistion and remove the skin.
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          some time was spent to dig out the rohacell. had to do this very carefully to prevent any damages to top surface. As i dig, i found the wire channel already pre cut in the foam. this wire channel leads straight to the center of the wing exactly 3cm from the front wing bolt.
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          servo i use for wing will be two mks 6100 metal gear servos.
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          i measured where my servo arm will be to the aileron root. on the top surface, the same distance determines where my control horn should be. i cut a slot with penknife and sand it to fit the supplied horn.
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          next i completed my servo wiring, connector i use is a 4 pin deans connector. the legs are cut short to fit in the wing. its is then epoxied in place, tape is used to hold it down.
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          next is what i feel is the most scary part. drilling exit holes for pushrod. first marked out where the slot will be.
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          then, with a miro drill bit, i made a very small hole then used a needle file to slowly file the slot as well as the channel for the pushrod. sorry, no pics for here on till the finished top drive. push rod is supplied with the kit. just need to be cut and bent.

          here is the completed topdrive
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          Comment


            #6
            ok, so heres the not so great part about using mks6100. the wing thickness at the servo well is 1.1cm towards the leading edge, and it tapers off to about 9mm. mks6100 is exactly 1cm in thickness. so towards the Te and also the servo arm will stick out slightly. this means caannot use the stock servo sovers anymore. in that case, i just mould my own servo covers.

            mould is constructed using 6 and 1.5mm depron.
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            the cover itself is moulded from fiberglass with some carbon rovings in the edges as reinforcments. the foam mould is then dissolved away using thinner after a 24hr cure time. the finished cover is cut to exact size, sanded and painted black to match the carbon. i also took the extra step to spray on a clear coat go give it the shine that will match the wing surface.

            I spent alot of time thinking whta peg i want to use since i wasent sure i want to use the stock pegs. Ronald from SHS recomended tracing out the wing onto a piece of cardboard and cut it out with the recomended peg placement. insert the peg and try swinging that around to see if that feels comfortable. I was then convinced that the recomended placement of the pegs wont end up cutting my hand each time i launch.
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            I followed the recomended installation of the peg throughout.
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            turn out pretty good and plenty strong.
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            the pull spring setup is then finished up.
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            woohoo! my stream is close to completion! just need to balance it, set it up and do some radio programming and it should be good to go.

            here is a build thread i found on rcg. very comprehensive and detailed. i would suggest anybody owning a stream to read this through before starting the build. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1793339

            also, for the setup, this should be quite a good baseline to start with then fine tune it to match your own personal style.
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            Comment


              #7
              Awesome Build Thread!

              Thanks for sharing Bro~!

              COme to think of it, red looks good too! Especially on the wing.

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                #8
                Now i got it flying and more or less trimmed out, some thoughts on the performance.
                very low drag, light weight launcher. Launching capabilties is comparable to the snipe. Choti launched both the snipe and stream. the luanch heights are both about the same.
                the airfoil is a mix between AG and Zone. AG - very floaty, Zone - good for penetration. As a result, the stream is able to penetrate suprisingly well even at only 261g no ballast. It can also be cambered down and pulled back slightly and it will just hang and hang.
                flying the stream feels just about the same as a stobel. both needs quite alot of rudder input to do a smooth turn. Probably because it dont have alot of dihedral. But despite having to use rudder more, this plane is just a joy to fly.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Now that i have been flying this beauty for a few weeks, i can say i have got it just the way i like it.

                  previously, i fly with cg at 70mm. At this cg, it penetrates really well, moves on its own, with camber and pulling slightly it hangs well. However, the turning is abit too much pilot work. plenty of correction needed when turning, perhaps more pilot load than f3p. initially i just tried to play around with the differential and the ail-rudd mix. But still, even after trying most possible combinations, even the best result of having no differential at all still showed quite a significant amount of side slip.

                  I then moved my cg back to 80mm and all those problems disappeared. it still moves on its own but very slowly. and may require a little push. Unlike what many reports and review says, the stream actually flies very slowly. much slower than a snipe. thermal handling is really great. it turns very smoothly now and can circle much tighter than any other of my dlgs. Joe saw me thermalling and even said its very forgiving in a thermal (maybe)....
                  shifting the cg also changed the way it feels in a launch. with forward cg, launching is really smooth....way too smooth. its hard to gauge when to release the plane since i cant even feel anything. with an aft cg, i have more feel and its alot easier to put in power into the launch.

                  of course different pilots have different preferences. some may like it even more tail heavy. i am just sharing what i use to serve as a starting guide for other stream owners out there.

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