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Project Hirobo <Jet Ranger> Rebuild/Respray Log

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    #16
    ~cont.. from where we left off..~

    Sorry guys for the little delay in updating.. been busy..

    Anyhow, here's the pictures after puttied and another thin layer of primer plus sanding down with 800 - 1000 grit..

    In this pic, you can see the puttied and sand down parts.. the 'spotty' patch on the right is what happens when you accidentally spray to thick or when the before layer is not completely dried.. As mentioned earlier, stop, and sand down again. Over here, I've also puttied the dried bubbled holes..
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    This is after I puttied, sand (800 grit), Prime thin layer over and sand down with 1000 grit.. you can see most defects covered up from previous pic.. basically this will be the surface for painting thereafter.. so ensure all is smooth at touch and dimple/defects free..
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    The Stabs are also puttied and sanded down, but as putty was thick, I used 600 grit here..
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    You can see that the wood grains and low spots from initial pics are all covered up.. I also try best to putty a 'joining shape' for the part where the satbs joins the fuse..
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    This is after I primed a thin layer over and sanded down (1000 grit). This pic is angled to try to show how smooth it can end up using this method (Carved Balsa to shape => Prime thin 'tact' coat => putty on => sand down => Prime & finish sand)
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    The rest of pics are the finished results for the main section of fuse using above method. All prepared for Painting!! Yeah!!
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    Here you can clearly see how all the ugly joint marks/defetcs are covered smooth & nice for painting..
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    Patience is KEY!! do up your base properly, dont do 'slip shot' 'shortcut' during this early steps.. Remember, how well & smooth you prepare your surface prior to painting; will be how nice and smooth your painted surface will be..

    Comment


      #17
      In fact, my friend in the painting car workshop tell me that 360 is enough for painting.
      You would not need 800-1000 for sanding down. Its wasting your time.

      The most important is the painting job.

      You will need 3k painting, which is only for sale to the car workshop.
      I love PAP

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by hallobaby View Post
        In fact, my friend in the painting car workshop tell me that 360 is enough for painting.
        You would not need 800-1000 for sanding down. Its wasting your time.

        The most important is the painting job.

        You will need 3k painting, which is only for sale to the car workshop.
        Dear hallobaby,

        Thanks for the input, with no offense, very subjective, from my opinion only, answering to your opinion:

        "In fact, my friend in the painting car workshop tell me that 360 is enough for painting.
        You would not need 800-1000 for sanding down. Its wasting your time."
        => I can't agree more.. Your friend must be an experiece automotive paint guy. I resprayed a whole bike previously and max finest grit i used was 400.. as all mini scratch marks by the sanding will be covered up by the thick industrial paints..

        But scale fuse or hobby related crafts alike, normally I won't go below 400. Cos the materials used, the surface material, etc, and all is different. If you even try to use a 400 grit to sand down the putty I've used to fill in small 1-2mm holes/defects (or smaller); the filler would actually be sanded out almost completely.

        Secondly, I don't intent to spray over thickly as it would incur unneccessary weight (extra weight of paint on cars and bikes don't really make a diff). Basically, I just spray thick enough a layer that the intented colour shows out, that's it. So, sanding down with 360 grit will really 'waste' my time, as the painting will not be smooth and reveal alot of scratch lines/dimples/holes.. Especially when painting thin coats of Black colour, it shows everthing out.

        800-1000 grit to simply to 'finish' the thin primer surface so that I don't need to do much 'correction' jobs later after I paint.. You can use 360-400, but because of the thin layer of primer plus all the curves/edges and lines of this small fuse, you might end up sanding some part of the primer completely, revealing the fibre surface..


        "The most important is the painting job."
        => Agree completely, but preparing the surface to be painted is an important part(60%) of a painting job. Don't ask a normal auto spray guy uncle. As they simply cover up all/most defects by thick putty and thick paint(that's why they feel the painting part is most important). Ask a custom paint/custom airbrush spray shop(e.g. harleys spray shop or custom airbrush or higher end custom auto shop that sprays candy 2 tones colours)

        "You will need 3k painting, which is only for sale to the car workshop."
        =>I don't neccessary need 3k or even 2k paint, though it would be a luxury n nice to have on a scale RC heli fuse.
        Basically, 2k/3k paints(normally its the clear and not so much the paint) use 2 chemical to mix, hence, allowing it to 'cover' up and drying to a hard surface(like epoxy finish). Moreover, having such a thick hard surface on a thin fibreglass which flex and bends is not such a good idea. certain mistakes/hard landings might leave your paint job with a crack/chip, unlike on a metal door/panel on a car.. Also, the chemical used is very hazardous to human when inhaled. You need a 'spraying/oven' room to spray, you need to wear an 'inhaler' mask and eye protection to spray.. If I can afford the correct facility to spray such paint, I think, by then is cheaper and more cost effective to just send the fuse to a shop and have them spray it instead..

        In summary, I would rather use a airbrush, if not I'll also settle for Aerosol for my hobby crafts. Doing a large flat metal panel is very diff from doing small 'odd shape' fibreglass or plastic.

        The fun is building it and the satisfaction is seeing something you build well flys.

        Thank you once again for sharing your views and inputs..

        Comment


          #19
          "Masking begins~"

          I begin masking, intending to do a total of 4 colours on this heli. Namely- Black, White, Silver, Red.
          As this job is spraying the exterior of fuse, try your best to mask and spray the lightest colours to the darkest.
          Observe the ideal primer surface wanted before painting through the following pics..

          [BEFORE PIC] This is a previous pic to show the finishing effects using 800-1000 grit..
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          [AFTER PIC] In this pics, you can see the finished puttied & primered surface for painting..
          Here on, masking begins. I start by masking out the intended part for the sliver and red stripes. This also breaks up the top(Black) and the bottom(White) parts of the fuse to be painted.
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          The dark line at the center is not a defect, but its the thicker joined fibre and putty. This pic shows how thin the primer layer is as light is still 'passable'..
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          After straightening and am satisfied with the masking of the strips for the front section, I use tape to join the front and back section of fuse, being careful to align in line where the screws will mount. Then I take lining from the front section, I continue the stripes onto the back section of fuse..
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          Notice that the masking is purposely left longer where the fuse joins(see above & below). This is done so because when the fuse is seperated for painting eventually, the 'back section' of fuse has a 'flap' out for the 'front' to overlap/cover onto. Therefore, I will mask the 'flap' with the extended mask so that the 'flap' will also carry the same colours as fuse. This will ensure the whole outlook will not have a 'line' later when the fuses are joined.
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          Extreme top end lines and bottom end lines; on both sides were marked and masked out first before doing the in between stripes..
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          Meaning: After the extreme top mask line, all will be sprayed black. After the extreme bottom line mask, all will be sprayed white..
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          The in-between stripes markings.. Stripes are going to be silver and red.. running from front of heli and fan out at the tail..
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          [continue..]

          Comment


            #20
            [continue..]

            And in-between the stripes, it is also going to be Black in colour..
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            Try to use ONE(1) strip/whole length of mask per line when you do the OUTLINE instead of joining midway.
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            Make sure the OUTLINE mask is properly stuck to the fuse. Use your nails or a thin ruler to run through the mask where ever its over a panel line of the fuse..
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            Top view of tail.. Don't worry about the 'angled' join part of OUTLINE at this moment, as it would be clearer and you can always cover the angles better when spraying the Black..
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            The main parts of stripes are all covered up..
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            Run your fingers through all the mask, especially at the outlines/joins, also the parts where mask are over contours of fuse to ensure good masking before spraying..
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            Check to ensure all stripes are even on both sides to the best you can..
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            Trying to archieve a nice 'X' at the backside..
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            After this, spraying begins!!

            Comment


              #21
              Interested to see the fuslage painted and fuel proof yet maintain a gloss and shinning surface.
              I love PAP

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by hallobaby View Post
                Interested to see the fuslage painted and fuel proof yet maintain a gloss and shinning surface.
                Thank you hallobaby bro for your encouraging interest.. I can't wait to finish it too and see it fly..

                But the weather recently (last weeks) is rainy.. hence too cool and too much moisture in air to risk painting without spoiling the finish.. so hopefully can have sunnier days to come to complete it sooner.

                Comment


                  #23
                  [Painting Begins~]

                  Top half of heli was masked off. Started to spray white first..
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                  This is the first 'finished coats' of white.. will do a 2nd coat later when other colours are done to neaten up the joining lines or cover up messed jobs.. (white easy to screw up.. e.g. accidental stains)
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                  When spraying a 'Whole Finish Coat', normally I will build it up with 3-4 thin layers over 5-10mins intervals(depending on brand of aerosol used).
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                  Spray the 1st layer very thin and spread out, with the aerosol further away from surface. Spray widely enough just as long as it covers the surface briefly; doesn't matter if its 'all over' the place or not evenly covered..(covering maybe around 30%-40% of surface) (~now wait 5-10mins) *Note* Do NOT spray a thick patch on primer directly or it'll bubble/wrinkle!
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                  Spray the 2nd layer thin too, but now, with aerosol nearer to surface achieving a 'narrower spray'; Start spraying from the offsets/edges area. Then spray with a more structured and evenly covering throughout. (should have covered 80% of surface by this coat) (~again, wait 5-10mins)
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                  For the 3rd layer, spray evenly and use a left to right slower spray strokes/motions with the aerosol, the returning stroke(right to left) should always cover 50% of the previous stroke; this is to make sure the whole layer stays wet and even. Always start spraying a layer from the offsets/edges area first.
                  With this layer, you should have covered 100% of surface.
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                  Wait around 10mins and check the paint on top of mask/redundant sprayed areas. It should be dry to touch. If it's tacty to touch, it's not ready to have masking removed..
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                  As I intend to spray a final white layer eventually later, I simply ensure it's an even coat; not really bothered about the 'finished'.
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                  If the primer you used is not white in colour (e.g. gray/red/brown), this layer is recommended(but not compulsory) to be sprayed first over the whole project so as to ensure your other colours will show up as it is. But if your intended colours are alll dark, then it doesn't really matters..
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                  Sorry about the pics, it was done at night and taken from my hp.. It was an evening that is warm and didn't rain during the day.. So I rushed to start spraying..
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                  Comment


                    #24
                    [Continue..]

                    Sorry for the long interval guys, reason being, the weather is hindering the progress to spray..

                    Anyhow, manage to catch some non-rainy days in between to sneak in some progress for the job..

                    The Heli had been remasked and measured to do the 'Aluminium' colour stripes..
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                    The spraying technics used are the same as above..
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                    For colours like silver, aluminium, gold, any metallic, etc. make sure the base to be sprayed is 'defect' free or you won't get an even 'metallic' look finishing.. the defects will show out..
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                    Try to run an even wet coat through especially where the contours are, if not the finished 'metallic' look will look 'uneven' comparing the flat surface and the contoured surfaces and edges..
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                    In this pic, you can see a spot where the paint was on little too thick and the wet cooler weather added to it as it dries slower inside, causing the underneath surface to 'bubble', this will be sanded down and resprayed again..
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                    Comment


                      #25
                      interested to know what paint you are using for the exterior?
                      issit fuel proof?
                      I love PAP

                      Comment

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