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    #31
    It will be covered and trimmed with Monokote. I did consider fibreglassing the fuselage and then painting it so that it will be a little more resistant to the fuel and hanger rash but decided against it for the sake of saving some time.

    Actually, they are two different kinds of glue but they have the same name. The stuff I use is Probond Wood Glue. I've used Elmers Wood Glue and similar but Probond seems to be slighty better than the others. I have developed an alergy to CA and epoxy after years of smelling the fumes that they give out and they now give me an instant headache when I get even the slightest wiff of the fumes. In anycase, it fits my building style because I can only afford an hour or two in the evenings to build so I don't lose much time by using Probond. Within that time, I can only fit, glue and pin a few parts at a time and then leave it overnight to dry. For me, using CA does not speed up the process by much.

    The other kind of Probond is for foam repair. You pump a bit of the stuff into any crack or crevise in the foam and it will foam and expand in contact with moisture in the air to fill the crack up. Makes for joints that are stronger than the foam itself. I've had it used on an E-Starter trainer I bought to teach my son to fly (yeah we all start out with noble intentions) but ended up flying it myself........but that is another story. Back to point .......the foam Probond is incredibly strong once its has cured. Don't know where to get it though.

    I'll start on the covering soon. Once I have hinged and mounted the ailerons, elevators and rudder. Need to buy some Dubro hinges from the LHS first.
    To win........one must not lose.

    Confucius

    Comment


      #32
      Hmmm never come across the foam Probond and not aware of such good staff did exist..... Sorry about your alergy to CA , looks like that is always a downside of everything...take care friend and thanks for the infor

      Comment


        #33
        hey tony gr8 thread.. i just caint wait to see the progress .. i gotta q for u where do u get the pins from? i am not sure where to purchase them

        Comment


          #34
          You can get the pins from NTC at Fook Hai Bldg. Comes in two sizes (could be more). The really big ones are good for anchoring down things like spars etc by criss crossing them but they are not much good for piercing cos they leave very big holes and/or split the wood (like spars etc). The little black thingeys you see sometimes stuck on my pins are no longer available. I got them from the States from a company called Rocket City which is now defunct. Damned useful. I guess, you could make them from little pieces of suitably thick plastic.
          To win........one must not lose.

          Confucius

          Comment


            #35
            hey thanks tony.. i went down to NTC today. they had only the big ones! bummer! gotta wait for 2 weeks for the next shipment

            Comment


              #36
              Drats! Have to go outstation again. Unfortunately, I have to work in order to afford this hobby and put food on the table for my kids So no more building until the weekend again. Sigh
              To win........one must not lose.

              Confucius

              Comment


                #37


                Almost the next best invention (to aeromodellers that is) to sliced cheese.....the hinge slot maker. Saves plenty of blisters, nicks, and is the usual cause (at least for me) of much swearing and profanity . 2 mins and slots all ready for hinging.





                Servo mounting is not shown on the plans nor are parts provided. I guess, MK assumes that each builder will apply his own favourite method. Here are the parts I cut from scrap balsa and hardwood cross beams.



                Here it is installed.



                The plans calls for the use of YK's silent mount for engine mounting.






                As it turns out, the Dubro spinner is a tad bit bigger than the 52 mm required so I'll have to apply some putty to make up the difference. Small inconvenience.
                Last edited by Tony; 22-03-2005, 05:32 PM.
                To win........one must not lose.

                Confucius

                Comment


                  #38
                  sweet spanking new YS u got in there... i think it is better to use a metal back-plate spinner for the YS, just my opinion...

                  Comment


                    #39
                    I like the True Turn spinners but boy do they cost $$$.
                    To win........one must not lose.

                    Confucius

                    Comment


                      #40
                      lol, i think the TW brand of spinners from the shop next to NTC is a good option, below 10 bucks i think and is metal back-plate...

                      Comment


                        #41
                        I've tried one out before. The hole centering was a bit off on the one I bought. Could be just a bad example. I've had not probs with True Turn but you pay for what you get
                        To win........one must not lose.

                        Confucius

                        Comment


                          #42


                          Again, no instructions or parts are provided nor are any drawings shown on the plans for the fuel tank mounting. So you are on your own as to how to mount your tank. This is how I did mine. 2mm ply floor plate was first installed as the existing canopy bottom of 2 mm balsa is not strong enough to hold the tank.



                          The pictures should be self explanatory.







                          Latex foam (not shown) will be used to prop the tank and provide some vibration insulation.
                          Last edited by Tony; 25-03-2005, 09:20 AM.
                          To win........one must not lose.

                          Confucius

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Tony,

                            This is an expert kit, u are expected to customise the internal.
                            BTW, know of someone having a hard time with the 63, u may want to bench run it before u fly.

                            James

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by X34
                              Tony,

                              This is an expert kit, u are expected to customise the internal.
                              BTW, know of someone having a hard time with the 63, u may want to bench run it before u fly.

                              James
                              Never bench run a YS on the ground, that is the no. 1 way of killing ur engine, it doesn't cool well when it is not in the air. I suggest do some adjustments on the ground and go for your flight. Go easy with circuits on the first few flights but please, if you do not want to throw your 400 plus bucks away, don't bench run it.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Yea i heard you should not run the YS on the ground too as it will overheat
                                TX:2 Sanwa Quasars , Futaba 9C super (heli)
                                Gliders :JW 54 , Sprinter , Flip400 (unbuilt)
                                Planes: Jumping Jack,,Zoom 4D,IFO, magic 3d,
                                Helis:Feda,Zap 400

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