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    #76
    Imho, the extremely heavy hull details and panels line "may" have given the impression that there is a "break" where the sail base merges with the hull... Perhaps by filling up the panels lines and re-scribing may have help to improve the 212A scale appearance... I have upload 2 pictures of Arkmodel 212 and a Revell 212A scale model from the internet. In this angle, the "break" seems to be highlighted by the heavy panel details. I may be wrong though
    Hi Jchng,

    I am quite convinced that the Arkmodel 212A has a "break" where the sail base meets the hull. If you look at the other models, especially the one offered by Casewell, the correct profile is quite well captured. The Caswell 212A is a nice handy size and very well done. I believe is more expensive than Arkmodel's. But I am not keen it because it is using gas for its ballast system (see my earlier posting above).

    Comment


      #77
      Originally posted by preferscale View Post
      But I am not keen it because it is using gas for its ballast system (see my earlier posting above).
      Build your own WTC using a RCABS (recirculating air ballast system), its not that hard.


      Attached are some photos of my 3" Cylinder, though if i did it again i would go for 2.5". My Permit luckily doesnt have much freeboard, and there isnt much space to inflate the bladder, so it just about works. a 2.5" cylinder would give more space inside the hull to allow the bladder to inflate.

      So i have a 3" Lexan tube and two end caps, the more enterprising could make their own endcaps and buy a short piece of tube, doesnt need to be lexan (i cant find lexan tube here ). I bought mine from mikes subworks, another alternative is rogue subworks who wasnt making them at the time and are cheaper. or third alternative and this is the lazy, but more expensive way i would do it now, but the end caps from Caswell, as they include the motor mount and servo mounts (ast the time they werent selling the parts.
      another lazy boy method is the rogue dynamic WTC, then add the ballast system, again motor and seals are ready to go.

      Inside the tube i have
      motor
      3 servo's
      RX
      ESC
      small air pump
      bicycle tyre valve
      Auto leveller - this is an expensive toy, maybe try without if on a budget
      lost signal Fail safe
      micro switch

      Outside the tube i have the seals and a bladder, 12" x 6" approx
      The seals and motor mount are from Engel, although mike subworks also has nice seals, and as mentioned if you bought the Caswell or rogue ones theyv'e got seals fitted

      Two of the servos control the up and down and left and right.
      the third servo either hits the switch, which turns the airpump on, or pushes the bike valve. This fills the bladder outside the Tube (pressure inside the tube drops, but not much) and the sub will float. opening the valve, lets the air back into the tube and it will sink.

      The leveller is hooked to the up down planes and keeps the sub level. the lost signal fail safe will move the the servo to start the pump.


      Have a brouse on these websites







      Comment


        #78
        Akula, excellent WTC construction. I can see the parts are really neat and well made. Would have bought the Caswell WTC for my Gato if not for the fact that it is gas ballast system. Thanks for the sharing. Will post pictures of my Kilo kit when it is here. Cheers.

        Comment


          #79


          hows that for timing, Nuke power, aka Rogue subs jost posted this.

          Comment


            #80
            Just want to share some photos of the pumpjet unit for converting the Trumpeter Seawolf to RC. Looks just like a micro edf doesn't it






            make it simple, make it strong, make it work!

            Comment


              #81
              New photos of my ongoing Trumpeter Kilo class submarine RC conversion project.

              The finished hull.

              Support saddles for the 2" SD being glued in.

              Test fitting the 2" SD.

              Drive shaft and dogbone

              Aft dive planes and rudder.

              The six-bladed white metal prop with vortex attenuator

              Notch cut in the upper hull to clear the drive shaft bearing bulkhead.

              Step between the upper and lower hull to be fix by gluing alignment strips to lower hull to spread out upper hull.

              Mtronik Viper 10 micro ESC

              Propel gas cylinder for blowing ballast.
              make it simple, make it strong, make it work!

              Comment


                #82
                Nice work guys!
                Here's my U-Boat from the Revell 1/72 kit. Intended for conversion to dynamic diving (dive by moving foward using dive planes like a plane, no need to blow ballast) as per a very good article in the Sept 2007 issue of Model Boats. Never did finish the conversion. Looks nice on the shelf though
                Also have plans for a free sailing rubber powered submarine that dives and resurfaces. All wood hull and definitely on the to-do list.

                -David-



                Comment


                  #83
                  Nice one Deedubya.
                  I can see that you haven't glued the deck on, maybe you can still go ahead with the conversion.
                  make it simple, make it strong, make it work!

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Oh, I plan to finish it. Someday....

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Trumpeter USS Seawolf

                      My wife just bought me one of these...
                      Future conversion project.



                      make it simple, make it strong, make it work!

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Dear all,

                        i'm new here. i would like to start building my own sub. may i know where can i buy the elecritical stuff and material to build in singapore.

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Hi hyroblaster,

                          RC subs are a little more complicated. Not sure how much you know but if you are new to this hobby, I would advise that you find out more first, e.g. what is dynamic dive and static dive, WTC (water tight cylinder) construction, etc. Even within static dive (diving by changing the buoyancy of the sub), there are different ballast systems available. The easiest option locally is the Thunder Tiger SB1 sub (RTR or kit). Not scale like but excellent building instructions. If you have a stomach for not so clear instructions with little English translation, you can try Arkmodel subs (not sure whether Rotor still has them).

                          If you are planning to build your own or convert an existing plastic model (such as the Revell kit of the Gato class or U-boat) to RC, surf the Internet as many useful posts are available. Building your own WTC is not impossible but a bit more challenging if you have no prior experience. WTCs are available in kit form from the US, but they are not cheap.

                          Wishing you success.

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Hi perferscale,

                            I have actually read the posting you guys have post here. I'm actually thinking of building my own but I would like to where you guys get your WTC, mini air pump/inflator and the rest of the equipment. which is the website where i can order the stuff. Thanks.

                            Comment


                              #90


                              Was going to give a brief write up on my RCABS WTC, but as there is one on line anyway, why bother, have a good read of this document.

                              Comment

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