Tai Sing & HPI

[nightbreed]

Hello! I'm new to this hobby and have only managed to put together a Tamiya Hornet.

I would like to know if Tai Sing is the only place that sells HPI cars?

Also, I'm torn between the Savage SS and the MT2 18SS. Anyone have experience with these cars? Or would the RTR versions be better for a beginner?

Thank you! :)

[sspp]

Hello! I'm new to this hobby and have only managed to put together a Tamiya Hornet.

I would like to know if Tai Sing is the only place that sells HPI cars?

Also, I'm torn between the Savage SS and the MT2 18SS. Anyone have experience with these cars? Or would the RTR versions be better for a beginner?

Thank you! :)

TS is the distributor for HPI in singapore. If you want to get HPI stuff you can also get from BK or Winnie. They take from TS but i find their price cheaper.

SAVAGE SS!!!!

[PCC]

Hi - I dunno about the savage but seeing the threads I see alot of nice things written about it. I have the MT2 (older version on .15) and I find it a bit frail. Maybe its the conditions I run it on but I seem to have more maintenance issues with it than my other cars.

[Mad Armour]

Hi - I dunno about the savage but seeing the threads I see alot of nice things written about it. I have the MT2 (older version on .15) and I find it a bit frail. Maybe its the conditions I run it on but I seem to have more maintenance issues with it than my other cars.

How lasting it is depends on how you abuse it mah.... :L :L :L I have the even older version, RS4MT. Stood up quite well although I must admit I didn't subject it to any jumps higher the 4'. :z

The MT 2 is still a 1/10 so parts and hardware are 1/10 size...namely smaller and more flimsy. Savage is a 1/8 MT so parts are also built toughte to handle the additional weight and power. However, if you subject the Savage to severe abuse, parts will break.

IMO, the toughest class of nitros has gotta be the 1/8 buggies. My Hyper 7 took 12" jumps at TBT, landed on side, tumble over a few times and still mopve away like nothing happened! :up You just have to look at the chassis, arms, bolts (4mm and 5mm) to see why it can take these kinda abuse. However having said that, something will eventually break! :L :L :L

Cheers!

[Mad Armour]

Also, I'm torn between the Savage SS and the MT2 18SS. Anyone have experience with these cars? Or would the RTR versions be better for a beginner?

Thank you! :)

If you can afford it....get the Savage! :up

[PCC]

Yes - definitely a function of the abuse we issue to it. But I must say one reason is the exceptional speed the MT2 went to when I ran it lean. When it hits a bump it has cartwheeled on occasions and that caused quite a lot of damage at that speed.

I see all the thick strong parts on that Savage - so that must be the tough machine.

[nightbreed]

Hello! Thanks for all your replies.

I went and got me a MT2. Budget wouldn't allow the Savage. Just finished admiring it. Now I have to find time (and place) to play with it.

Mine came with the white body, though. I always thot it was orange, like the one on the HPI website.

[PCC]

Yeah!!! congrats!!! whatever u buy its always a pleasing experience. I think the orange body version (mine) is a bit stale - if I got a choice would have gone for the white or the military version. Looks cooler.

You got yours as kit or RTR? Can I recommend you some cheap upgrades if you did not get the 18version? :
1. Wheel Hexes - there are metal versions at 11 dollars at TS. The plastic ones u need to make sure the nuts are always very tight as they may get loose and the hexes may rip out the wheel and itself. If you want to save the 11 dollars, just keep making sure the wheel nuts are tight (but this should be ok when they are new) - else replacing the wheels and hexes later (and maybe the tires if you cant remove them from the wheel) would be at some greater expense.
2. Racing Clutch - The basic clutch is ok for a start. But it tends to engage even at low speeds so you will have difficulty when you tune the engine leaner as the car seems to move on smooth surfaces. The Racing Clutch (20 bucks at TS) is adjustable and can engage at higher speeds. So if you find that you cannot get the MT2 to stay stationery when you make the engine faster/leaner, u may want to consider getting the racing clutch.

Maybe we can have a MT2 bash someday - I normally take it to some muddy patches at Punggol (which explains the abuse mine gets).

Have fun!

[Mad Armour]

Yes - definitely a function of the abuse we issue to it. But I must say one reason is the exceptional speed the MT2 went to when I ran it lean. When it hits a bump it has cartwheeled on occasions and that caused quite a lot of damage at that speed.

I see all the thick strong parts on that Savage - so that must be the tough machine.

MT2 is quite fast becos it's light and has a .15 engine.

Yup, Savage's parts are thick and strong, so can take quite a fair bit of abuse. :up

[Mad Armour]

Hello! Thanks for all your replies.

I went and got me a MT2. Budget wouldn't allow the Savage. Just finished admiring it. Now I have to find time (and place) to play with it.

Mine came with the white body, though. I always thot it was orange, like the one on the HPI website.

Think that's the RTR version.

[Mad Armour]

Maybe we can have a MT2 bash someday - I normally take it to some muddy patches at Punggol (which explains the abuse mine gets).

Have fun!

Go Tampines Bike Trail lah..... :D

[nightbreed]

Hmm. Looks like I need to brush up on RC vocabulary. I have no idea what 'make the engine leaner' means or what wheel hexes are. :P

THank you for the pointers, phanchingchong. I think I will just play with it and get used to it before I start doing anything else to it. I can get fairly obsessed with 'upgrading' when I start. :P

My MT2 is RTR. I feel like just taking the whole thing apart and putting it together again, just to get familiar with the parts. Is that smart?

Also, in showing off to my wife, I chucked the MT2 from about 1m and I heard the chassis smack the floor pretty loudly. :z Is this normal? The shocks feel a little 'mushy' to me.

[PCC]

Hi ... yes run it first and enjoy. Just take this advice then (especially when the thing starts to run fast) - check the wheel nuts to make sure they are tight after each run. That way you can hold off the wheel hexes stuff.

Also, dun take it apart!!! Just take apart each component each time you have something that is bashed up or require maintenance. Should have fun running the car rather than fixing it too much.

With regards to the shocks - if you are not jumping too high/much, it should work. It is a bit too soft so many people change the springs to the upgraded ones (Purple or Blue sold at TS). With the change in spring, some also change to a thicker shock oil. But at this stage dun need to change these - just go progressive on how much jumps you put you cute MT2 through. At worst, you scratch the bottom purple chassis but it actually does no harm usually (just cosmetic) - when it bothers you, change the springs for a start and when you are feeling more shiok, change the oil.

When you go through the instructions to start the engine, they will explain how to tune the engine and run it in - they will also tell you what is lean and rich (meaning little or more oil into the combustion). But dun worry, just follow the nice two pager from HPI.

For now, follow the break in and engine start instructions and find a nice safe place to get started on running it. Quite shiok.

[PCC]

oh - just saw that you threw it 1m - dun like that lah. quite poor thing one - imagine our real SUVs jumping 10m. Quite painful ...... So throw 1m quite normal to bash the bottom...... But when running and you jump 2-3 feet it should also hit the bottom so the stronger springs/oil I mentioend is meant to reduce this. But 1m .... reallly quite painful for the poor MT2 lah.

[Mad Armour]

My MT2 is RTR. I feel like just taking the whole thing apart and putting it together again, just to get familiar with the parts. Is that smart?

Also, in showing off to my wife, I chucked the MT2 from about 1m and I heard the chassis smack the floor pretty loudly. :z Is this normal? The shocks feel a little 'mushy' to me.

If you have not much experience in assembling kits, I suggest you don't take the MT2 apart. OK, one advise from me. Make sure all the screws are tight. You dun want things to drop out when you jump your MT! :L Also, loctite all metal to metal screws. This will prevent it from coming out due to vibration.

An example will be the engine mount screws. Take out one, apply loctite and screw back tightly (but don't overdo it, else you'll strip it). Then do another screw. Don't tale out all at the same time, coz you'll have to redo the gear meshing.

The body bottoming out is normal for MT, so is soft springs. This will help to absorb the surface undulations. Try not to go too hard coz you're running offroad.

[nightbreed]

wah, in just 3 postings by phanchingchong and Mad Armour I learnt alot! And saved myself from unnecessary problems!! :) Thank you!

in some parts of the car I can see gear teeth. I touched them and they dont seem to be greased. Do I have to grease them? Also, besides tools, what do I need to maintain/clean the MT2? (after typing this, I realise that I COULD do a search and find a lot of info on this, but... :sleep )

Thank you for your patience! :)

[sspp]

wah, in just 3 postings by phanchingchong and Mad Armour I learnt alot! And saved myself from unnecessary problems!! :) Thank you!

in some parts of the car I can see gear teeth. I touched them and they dont seem to be greased. Do I have to grease them? Also, besides tools, what do I need to maintain/clean the MT2? (after typing this, I realise that I COULD do a search and find a lot of info on this, but... :sleep )

Thank you for your patience! :)

Those exposed gears need not really be greased. its ok to run them as it is. As for cleaning and maintaining the car. couple of ways.

1. use a brush to brush off the dust after every run
2. WD40, spray onto the car and use a airgun (if you have a compressor) to blow dry it. makes the car look as good as new and help protect some of the parts with abit of grease.

frankly, i think 2 is not an investment to go into now. just use a brush and a cloth to clean off the dirt.

[Mad Armour]

wah, in just 3 postings by phanchingchong and Mad Armour I learnt alot! And saved myself from unnecessary problems!! :) Thank you!

in some parts of the car I can see gear teeth. I touched them and they dont seem to be greased. Do I have to grease them? Also, besides tools, what do I need to maintain/clean the MT2? (after typing this, I realise that I COULD do a search and find a lot of info on this, but... :sleep )

Thank you for your patience! :)

IMO, don't apply grease onto exposed gears. When you run it off road, dirt and sand will get stuck on the grease. You'll have a DIY sandpaper and your gear will wear off in no time! :z

You also dun want grease to splatter all over the chassis and maybe yourself when the gear spins. :L

Come and join us one day lah!

Cheers!

[fuse]

great advise

[PCC]

Yup - answer many times already. As a proud owner (in some ways) of the MT2 RTR I must say that they have greased all parts that should be. So the main gear is intentionally not greased so you won't hvae grim stuck to it. Places like the shaft, etc are pre-greased and you can continue doing so after a few runs. No worries on the MT2 in this regard, follow the break - in instructions for the engine and how to get started, tighten the wheel nuts if they don't seem to be and have fun with it.

Mad Armour - also want to join you!!! where do you guys run exactly? I now find spots at punggol and sengkang that are quite good but some parts are quite treacherous.

[sspp]

Yup - answer many times already. As a proud owner (in some ways) of the MT2 RTR I must say that they have greased all parts that should be. So the main gear is intentionally not greased so you won't hvae grim stuck to it. Places like the shaft, etc are pre-greased and you can continue doing so after a few runs. No worries on the MT2 in this regard, follow the break - in instructions for the engine and how to get started, tighten the wheel nuts if they don't seem to be and have fun with it.

Mad Armour - also want to join you!!! where do you guys run exactly? I now find spots at punggol and sengkang that are quite good but some parts are quite treacherous.

we are ok with most places and willing to try new places. we normally run on sundays (many sundays dun have liao, better start soon) at Tampines.

[Mad Armour]

Mad Armour - also want to join you!!! where do you guys run exactly? I now find spots at punggol and sengkang that are quite good but some parts are quite treacherous.

We usually run at Tampines BMX Trail at Tampines Ave 9. Usually on a Sunday. I'll keep you updated when we go. You have any other nitro off-roads?

Cheers!

[PCC]

yah... but dunno still can run or not. Kyosho Rampage!!!! - archived in pieces! Normally on electrics but got hold of the MT2 brand new in Japan for about 250 SGD so I thought why not. Hope I get some more work there (in Japan) soon so I can pick up the Savage which I saw for about 400+SGD. The shops in akihabara have periodic discounts but when I was there the last time I only picked up the MT2 as I did not have research on the HPIs then (stupid of me).

[Mad Armour]

yah... but dunno still can run or not. Kyosho Rampage!!!! - archived in pieces! Normally on electrics but got hold of the MT2 brand new in Japan for about 250 SGD so I thought why not. Hope I get some more work there (in Japan) soon so I can pick up the Savage which I saw for about 400+SGD. The shops in akihabara have periodic discounts but when I was there the last time I only picked up the MT2 as I did not have research on the HPIs then (stupid of me).

400+ for Savage!!! That's a mighty good price! :up HPI's stuffs are all well made!

[PCC]

yup - this shop at akihabara (has a JR sign and black logo) takes out a few models of various brands once in awhile and dumps them. Some brands are ex but those at the door placed on discount are good.

[nightbreed]

Hmm. Apparently, aluminum front uprights for the MT2 are something of a rarity. The bottom screw stripped it's threads after I bashed it into a kerb. Now it rattles loose. Also, I think I screwed up the lifespan of my engine. In my excitement to get it running, I totally forgot to read the manual concerning engine run in. :knife Fiddled with this screw and that. Clockwise, anti-clockwise, clockwise, anti-clockwise.... anyhow whack. Fuel shooting out the exhaust. No exhaust fumes. Engine won't start. A whole list of problems. Don't even know what is default setting anymore. :( Fiddled for almost 45 minutes before it got to run anywhere near a reasonable speed. Also, post-run maintenance went out the window. Fuel sitting in my tank, in my engine for the last 4 days.

Is there hope for me and my MT2? :bigcry

[sspp]

Hmm. Apparently, aluminum front uprights for the MT2 are something of a rarity. The bottom screw stripped it's threads after I bashed it into a kerb. Now it rattles loose. Also, I think I screwed up the lifespan of my engine. In my excitement to get it running, I totally forgot to read the manual concerning engine run in. :knife Fiddled with this screw and that. Clockwise, anti-clockwise, clockwise, anti-clockwise.... anyhow whack. Fuel shooting out the exhaust. No exhaust fumes. Engine won't start. A whole list of problems. Don't even know what is default setting anymore. :( Fiddled for almost 45 minutes before it got to run anywhere near a reasonable speed. Also, post-run maintenance went out the window. Fuel sitting in my tank, in my engine for the last 4 days.

Is there hope for me and my MT2? :bigcry

you should have loctite ur screws. this will prevent the screws from rattling loose. btw, loctite works only for metal to metal contact. and a single small drop is good enuff to do the job, else next time you will have trouble removing it.

As for the engine, normal running in should be rich. which means nitro splurting out of the exhuast is ok. I would have run the engine normally with factory settings. after running in for about 6-8 tanks, then i will start tuning the engine.

if your exhaust has lots of white fumes, it also means you are running the car rich. IMHO, i think you should try to read the manual or try to source from internet, the factory settings for the all the needles and retune it back and start from there all over again.

[Mad Armour]

Apparently, aluminum front uprights for the MT2 are something of a rarity. The bottom screw stripped it's threads after I bashed it into a kerb. Now it rattles loose.

OK, here's a soultion. I would guess the screw for the front alu uprights is 3mm size (M3). Wat you can do if the thread is stripped is to tap a 4mm hole and use a 4mm screw instead. But you have to borrow a 4mm tap! :sneaky: If you buy me coffee, I can tap for you! :D :L :L :L

Stop gap measure is to use some CA on the screw and screw it back....then pray hard!



Also, I think I screwed up the lifespan of my engine. In my excitement to get it running, I totally forgot to read the manual concerning engine run in. :knife Fiddled with this screw and that. Clockwise, anti-clockwise, clockwise, anti-clockwise.... anyhow whack. Fuel shooting out the exhaust. No exhaust fumes. Engine won't start. A whole list of problems. Don't even know what is default setting anymore. :( Fiddled for almost 45 minutes before it got to run anywhere near a reasonable speed. Also, post-run maintenance went out the window. Fuel sitting in my tank, in my engine for the last 4 days.

Is there hope for me and my MT2? :bigcry

OK...this one you've gotta read the manual again VERY CAREFULLY, even the small prints. It's a good chance that there's info on the factory setting of the needles. If not, just email HPI and ask them for the stock settings.

Looks like your engine is set too rich, with all the nitro pouring out. BTW, please try and drained out the unused nitro from the tank and engine.

OK...worse come to worse, try this setting. High needle - 3.5 turn from closed . Low needle - flush with the carb.


Cheers!

[PCC]

Night - no worries I think.

Upright - can check with TS if they have. Its pretty cheap so even if you get a few for future bashings its ok.

Engine - The default settings are in the manual (3turns I believe). So follow the step by step instructions and break in as if you had the engine new. You probably had it too rich (over fuel) and thus the spurting so that is better than the reverse which can cause damage. So dun worry first - go back to step 1 of the engine setup.

[nightbreed]

Nuts. I'm getting nowhere fast. At the beginning, it won't even start. Tried closing the high needle all the way down and opening 3 turns, low-needle flush....car suddenly accelerates real fast without any input from Tx, fuel shooting out, tank gets drained and engines dies with a 'clink'. Try again at 3 turns, i keep the starter depressed and start engine. It starts, then when I remove starter, it dies with a 'clink'. Tried a few times, same. Open a little more, it starts and stays on. But the idling sounds very rough and not very 'stable' (know what i mean? like going to stall like that). Then I accelerate........no response. Engine on, wheels don't turn. Open a bit more.....and more....wheels turn very slowly. Then suddenly speeds up and all the fuel gone. What the hell.

I feel like sending it in for tuning and learn from the guy how to do it. Don't think I'd mind paying to alleviate my frustration. Wonder if Taising does it. Can go look for stuff there too. Geez. If this happens everytime I want to play with the MT2....... :furious

[sspp]

Nuts. I'm getting nowhere fast. At the beginning, it won't even start. Tried closing the high needle all the way down and opening 3 turns, low-needle flush....car suddenly accelerates real fast without any input from Tx, fuel shooting out, tank gets drained and engines dies with a 'clink'. Try again at 3 turns, i keep the starter depressed and start engine. It starts, then when I remove starter, it dies with a 'clink'. Tried a few times, same. Open a little more, it starts and stays on. But the idling sounds very rough and not very 'stable' (know what i mean? like going to stall like that). Then I accelerate........no response. Engine on, wheels don't turn. Open a bit more.....and more....wheels turn very slowly. Then suddenly speeds up and all the fuel gone. What the hell.

I feel like sending it in for tuning and learn from the guy how to do it. Don't think I'd mind paying to alleviate my frustration. Wonder if Taising does it. Can go look for stuff there too. Geez. If this happens everytime I want to play with the MT2....... :furious


hmm....dunno this sunday free or not......if free, maybe we can all meet and look at ur engine

[Mad Armour]

Nuts. I'm getting nowhere fast.

I feel like sending it in for tuning and learn from the guy how to do it. Don't think I'd mind paying to alleviate my frustration. Wonder if Taising does it. Can go look for stuff there too. Geez. If this happens everytime I want to play with the MT2....... :furious


Ahhhhhhhh......growing pains! :L :L :L

Please check your throttle linkages, idling needle. Finally, ask the guy from whom you bought the MT from for help. If not, make an effort to join others who's playing nitro rc. Most ppl will be more than glad to help you through. Sometimes it's difficult to troubleshoot online. Best do it with the car in front. :)

Finally, be patient and you will be rewarded! :up

[Mad Armour]

hmm....dunno this sunday free or not......if free, maybe we can all meet and look at ur engine

Sunday race wat time? Maybe can have a zoom zoom at TBT. I feel rusty liow. :rolleyes:

[PCC]

Which area do you stay in to see if there is someone near who can help? I am in Punggol.

[nightbreed]

I live in Sengkang! :) So u r saying I should not send it to the shop and pay for tuning? Hmm. Then I guess I will have to be patient and either:

solve it myself or

wait for kind souls to help :)

I think I will give it one more shot and then if no joy, then my happiness will be in the hands of forumers. :D

[Mad Armour]

wait for kind souls to help :)

I think I will give it one more shot and then if no joy, then my happiness will be in the hands of forumers. :D

Must be proactive, don't wait.....go forth and approach! :up

Hope this helps.

Engine Tuning (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_tunengine_01.asp)

Get Your Engine Started, Everytime (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/get_enginestart.asp)

Cheers!

[PCC]

Those are good instructions that someone referred me previously.

Night - I will be flying out over the weekend, but if bright and early on Sat is ok for you, I dun mind meeting you at Punggol Plaza (say around 8.30). I will be there for breakfast with my pregnant wife and can follow on to help you tune it.

[jerrylsp]

nightbreed,
I know someone who can tune nitro cars, if u wat u sms me 98718851, charge is 50, i ask him to tune also, cos i also sotong on tuning. Jerry

[Orangie]

hmm....dunno this sunday free or not......if free, maybe we can all meet and look at ur engine

What happened to your fren with his MT?????

[Orangie]

Sunday race wat time? Maybe can have a zoom zoom at TBT. I feel rusty liow. :rolleyes:

I'm thinking of taking leave on Mon and go zoom zoom at MS :D

[Orangie]

I live in Sengkang! :) So u r saying I should not send it to the shop and pay for tuning? Hmm. Then I guess I will have to be patient and either:

solve it myself or

wait for kind souls to help :)

I think I will give it one more shot and then if no joy, then my happiness will be in the hands of forumers. :D

I havea suggestion for you... change the plug :)

[nightbreed]

phanchingchong, thanks for your offer! :) But I have to be somewhere at 730 to 1230. So, I can't meet you. :( (paiseh, must bring your pregnant wife)

Orangie, change glow plug? Hmm. Even if it works? Because mine glows reddish orange. But it does get a little wet after the engine dies.

jerrylsp, $50 to tune? Er.....a bit not cheap. :P Thanks for the offer. I will consider when I get really desperate. :)

Anyway, I giving it another shot this afternoon. Wish me luck.


PS
I got me a Mini Inferno!! :) Quite happy with it. Only thing is the damn thing wont go straight despite my efforts at trimming. :bh Is RC hobby always this frustrating?

[Mad Armour]

I'm thinking of taking leave on Mon and go zoom zoom at MS :D

Again? :D My SS's tail is ready liow! :up Let's go!

[Mad Armour]

PS
I got me a Mini Inferno!! :) Quite happy with it. Only thing is the damn thing wont go straight despite my efforts at trimming. :bh Is RC hobby always this frustrating?

Wah...looks like the Mini Inferno (half8) is selling very well here. I've got mine 2 days ago! :D I've just made an 8 cell pack for her. Waiting for Mamba brushless to arrive from BPP.

Have you reached the end of the trim? If you have, just loosen the servo screw, take out the horn and advance the opposite direction one teeth, or 2. Hope this helps. You may want to tighten the servo save a bit coz it's set very loose.

Cheers!

[nightbreed]

Ha! That's the thing I'm looking for! The battery pack! This car sucks AAs like crazy. I need some rechargeables. Where can I get a thing like that?

Also, the speed is....not too speedy, hor? Can go faster?

Another question: the front and rear wheels, how much toe-in/out is recommended? I changed the rear toe-in/out thingy from part A to part B. The front.....I think too much toe-in. :P

MA, thanks for the steering trim suggestion.

I think OT already.

So, bring back on thread. I give up trying to tune the MT2. In the one week that I owned it, I only managed to get 20 minutes of runtime from it (and that was by the tuning method called Random Fiddling). I will send it to a shop and get it tuned....unless some kind soul here who lives in Sengkang, Punggol or Hougang can help. :)

[Mad Armour]

Ha! That's the thing I'm looking for! The battery pack! This car sucks AAs like crazy. I need some rechargeables. Where can I get a thing like that?

Also, the speed is....not too speedy, hor? Can go faster?

Another question: the front and rear wheels, how much toe-in/out is recommended? I changed the rear toe-in/out thingy from part A to part B. The front.....I think too much toe-in. :P

MA, thanks for the steering trim suggestion.

I think OT already.

So, bring back on thread. I give up trying to tune the MT2. In the one week that I owned it, I only managed to get 20 minutes of runtime from it (and that was by the tuning method called Random Fiddling). I will send it to a shop and get it tuned....unless some kind soul here who lives in Sengkang, Punggol or Hougang can help. :)


I made the batt pack myself! :D If you want to use rechargables, I suggest you don't use AA size on the standard batt case. Rechargable batt is 1.2V each, while your alkaline is 1.5V each. So 6 cells make only 7.2V compared to 9.0V of the alkalines. This will make the half8 crawl.

If you want rechargables, an 8-cell pack (9.6V) is the way to go! :up Speed will go up too. :D Of course, adding a brushless is better! :D :D :D

Try to go for 0 degree toe in in front first and maybe 2 degree toe in at the back.

If you're free weekdays at 3pm, maybe I can help you see wat's wrong with your MT2. :)

Cheers!

[nightbreed]

Yay! So where can I get 8-cell packs? Any disadvantages? Like engine life and runtime reduced etc. And what's brushless? I just want to make my car go faster. I'm recommended to change motor and bearings. Now there's batts. What else? I guess I don't have to change everything, just the things that make the most difference to car speed.

Weekdays at 3pm is FINE!!! :) :) :) Where can we meet? On weekdays, I'm in Hougang Ave 1.

[Mad Armour]

Yay! So where can I get 8-cell packs? Any disadvantages? Like engine life and runtime reduced etc. And what's brushless? I just want to make my car go faster. I'm recommended to change motor and bearings. Now there's batts. What else? I guess I don't have to change everything, just the things that make the most difference to car speed.

Weekdays at 3pm is FINE!!! :) :) :) Where can we meet? On weekdays, I'm in Hougang Ave 1.

Presently I don't know if you can get this ready packs in SG (if you look at Half8's manual, the 8-cell pack is an option product). I made the pack myself from loose GP1100 2/3A cells.

This pack will give you 9.6V compared to 9.0V from 6 AA alkalines. Dunno about running time coz I've yet to try it out. Just made it yesterday! :D I feel the punch will be much better than AA alkalines coz these cells are rated at 40A discharge!

Another type of cell which is very popular amongst the Mini-T players in the USA is KAN1050. This cell's discharge rate is 20A. You can see the GP1100 is better.

I'm not sure where you can get the cells in SG but a forumner here (X34) is selling them at $4/piece. And you've got to solder the packs yourself. :rolleyes:

IMO, try changing the batts first before going for motors. One step at a time. :up Of course, the wheel bearings are an important upgrade! Currently it's only plastic bushings. :down You'll need 8 pieces of 8 x 4 x 3 sealed bearings. You can get them at rotor Hobby at $2.50 a piece.

Singapore Hobby Supplies sells the Kan1050 batts but I heard quite expensive. Anyway, I heard they are out of stock currently. You can order from Aircraft World at USD1.70 a piece but you need to wait a couple of weeks for them to arrive. Or you can buy the GP1100 off X34 and make the packs. You got soldering skills?

[Mad Armour]

Aircraft World link. Sorry, it's USD1.75, not 1.70.

Kan1050 (http://aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=360)