Cybird 370 change loss of Tail power?

[PhiBeR]

After changing my Feda's main motor to the Rotor Cybird 370..

The power seems the same on NiMh packs..
But the red light doesn't come on so soon anymore..

But the problem is my tail seems to be losing authority..
What's the cause and anyway to remedy?

[Han]

Are you using a mixer board? If so, the new motor is drawing more current causing the tail to loose authority.

If you are on seperates, what is the total current draw?

[MicroHeli-Nut]

Stick to the trusty 8 tooth pinion that somes with it and you should be fine. If not please cut out V-Blades....

The stock mixer board set-up with the Feda\Hummer was never designed for the the amount of torque generated from the bigger main gear ( Piccolos and Skylarks have smaller main gear)

[PhiBeR]

Hmmm.. yeah.. i used the pinion that came with the Cybird..

Any my blades are slightly cut.. u remember them?

I got a feeling it's due to the Feda mixer too..
Piro rate to the left (head turn right) is damn low also..
Maybe time to go separates!

[HZM]

I agree w guys on nmixer board....phiber...u should go separate manz. Most important, u had such a good radio .....it allows mixing, sell/throw away the mixer board Get 2 ESC ICS-50 and ICS100/300 ...... Go separate, compensate w revo mixing.....u will find wonder in flying and longer tail motor lifespan + super piro'ing rate So many advantage, what are you waiting for?


Mike

[Fit]

Yeah Phibe! Make full use of your radio!
But my advice is to get a HH gyro if you go separates.
My feda is on separates with revo mix. Revo mix is horrible! Its never accurate and the tail gets all over the place either when you descend or ascend or both. No matter how much time you spend carefully adjusting your revo it will never be as good as HH or even the Feda Mixer board! So far my conclusion is that if you're using a rate gyro use the mixer board..... if you are going separates best to go with HH for a pleasant flight experience.

Now I'm going back to mixers for tail control with separates. I find that manual mixing is still better than revo..... I just don't like the non predictability and non linearity of the tail with revo..

[HZM]

hmmm....but D.Yeo and Frank had been doing pretty well w revo mix..... they too use ****** gyro, separate and 9CHP.....


Mike

[Fit]

Hmm.....interesting. For me my preference is still either mixer board or HH over revo. Maybe because I've been flying my hornet ever since I got it and have been too pampered by the ease of tail control with HH and when I try the Feda with revo the tail felt awful. I've not touched my Feda for 2 months plus hehe! That probably have something to do with it!

With revo I find that its not consistent.I'm not sure how to explain it. Like for example If your throttle position is in between two points on the revo mix, the straight line that is automatically formed between the two points may not necessarily be equal to counter the addition or reduction of torque on the heli. As a result the tail tend to yaw when the throttle is increased or decreased in a rather unpredictable way. And everytime when blade pitch changes the whole revo curve has to be redone which is quite a hassle.

But if revo works then as they say if it ain't broke don't fix it

[loyn]

Hmmmm......fit you mean even with a "shaft" drive tail you still need a HH gyro? I though the tail speed should automatically in syn with the main rotor since they are powered by the same motor, and with the right gear ratio will ensure tail holding.....even for a change in main rotor speed....or am I wrong again..

[PhiBeR]

Heehee.. considering ah..

but i need to get my lipos up and runnig first..
the diy chrager failed.. can't seem to charge my packs properly
and the heat sink gets damn hot!!!

Also, can i do separates with two mixer boards?? :P

[AceViperX]

Originally posted by loyn
Hmmmm......fit you mean even with a "shaft" drive tail you still need a HH gyro? I though the tail speed should automatically in syn with the main rotor since they are powered by the same motor, and with the right gear ratio will ensure tail holding.....even for a change in main rotor speed....or am I wrong again..

Still needs a HH for a solid tail hold. That being said, I didn't have to dial in any revo mixing when I switched my gyro to rate mode...

[Fit]

the diy chrager failed.. can't seem to charge my packs properly

Did you build the 5 component charger or the other one that is slightly more complex? The heatsinks will get very hot. Don't worry its normal and it won't damage it. When the battery is fully charged the fet that was previously hot will cool down and the other fet that was initially cool will get hot.

What happened to the charger? In what way is it not working?

Loyn, what Ace says is right. If the main pitch curve is adjusted such that the torque equals proportionately to the increase in tail rotor thrust, the tail should more or less hold itself without HH and revo.

[PhiBeR]

Hmmm.. guess i'll continue to post in this thread since my diy
charger thread not so much pple.. :P

Well, i built the Scott Henion design 2, that is the 1/2/3s selectable charger with fix rate and a LED..

Not design 3 which can select charge rate.. that one too cheam!!

Anyway, i changed the resistor setting to get a charge rate of 1C (1.2A)..
But somehow after measureing it seems to be doing only 0.55A max!

So i dunno where did i go wrong..
But i did modify the charger to be able to do 0.1C (120mA) charging
by using a switch to route between 2 diff resistors..
That the reading seems to be correct though..

Heatsink is damn hot.. can burn finger kind..